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So, my "new" 2000 PF 17T is my first ever micro and first ever tunnel. I love it, its got a lot of personality for sure - but i have some questions after a few trips you guys may be able to answer.

Question 1) trim tabs. I have tested out of the water and the tab buttons are correctly labeled and work as they should. HOWEVER, whenever I push for a tab adjustment, the opposite side moves the way i am going for. So starboard button bow up will make the port side go up.

and before you ask, the port button works the port tab and visa versa. i dont go for that opposite programming that some people do.

is this a tunnel hull thing? am i overtabbed in general? or is the boat possessed? i am flummoxed.

Question 2) i do not have a jack plate - that ship has sailed, but should i have a cavitation plate? how do i know if i would want or need one? i ask because my mech has 2 identical boats in his yard for storage and i noticed they both have cav-plates. I just installed a brand new 60 4-stroke, so im going to run it as-is for a while regardless. just curious what the general consensus is and what problems this would solve so i look for them.

thanks for the help, here is a 35" er i got on the Zman (finally getting some use out of the bug suit...yay?). loving the micro life so far.
 

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BBA Counselor
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The tabs are working as they should. Either get used to it as normal, or just switch the leads on the switches to your liking.

A compression plate (most likely what you are calling a cav plate) will allow you to run the motor a bit higher in the tunnel without blowout, and combined with a nice cupped prop can get you into skinny water. Really though to maximize it you might want to get a Jackplate and nose cone setup, then you can run as skinny as you want.
 

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Just livin’ my life easy come easy go...
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Don’t question the tabs unless you are running and they don’t respond correctly.
 

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Just livin’ my life easy come easy go...
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And the tab thing isn’t a tunnel thing. There are tunnel nuances but that isn’t one of them.
 
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I like my tabs set where they follow the switch motions. port switch up raises the port tab, etc. just me.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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1. Get a jack plate. You're wasting most of the potential of a tunnel without one.
2. Wire the trim buttons however you like. There's no right or wrong way, just the way that makes sense to you.
3. I'd take a jack plate before a cav plate.
What he said
 

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You need a jack plate, a tunnel hull with no jack plate is like a 4 wheel drive with street tires. You are missing out.
Left switch should be for left tab and right for right. Left switch up should move tab up, down for down.
 

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So, my "new" 2000 PF 17T is my first ever micro and first ever tunnel. I love it, its got a lot of personality for sure - but i have some questions after a few trips you guys may be able to answer.

Question 1) trim tabs. I have tested out of the water and the tab buttons are correctly labeled and work as they should. HOWEVER, whenever I push for a tab adjustment, the opposite side moves the way i am going for. So starboard button bow up will make the port side go up.

and before you ask, the port button works the port tab and visa versa. i dont go for that opposite programming that some people do.

is this a tunnel hull thing? am i overtabbed in general? or is the boat possessed? i am flummoxed.

Question 2) i do not have a jack plate - that ship has sailed, but should i have a cavitation plate? how do i know if i would want or need one? i ask because my mech has 2 identical boats in his yard for storage and i noticed they both have cav-plates. I just installed a brand new 60 4-stroke, so im going to run it as-is for a while regardless. just curious what the general consensus is and what problems this would solve so i look for them.

thanks for the help, here is a 35" er i got on the Zman (finally getting some use out of the bug suit...yay?). loving the micro life so far.
Hey bud, I have the same set up as you except my boat is a year older. No jack plate, 4 stroke high thrust yam 60 with a 4 blade prop. Run your boat for 4 months as is. Then make a decision on what you need/don’t need. I’ve had my PF for 4 years with no jackplate and somehow survived....
My best advice I can give you: Flip poled flats standing on the back a motor twice the size of anything we have today and had success.
 

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I partially disagree with the need of a jackplate, even though I have one. His tunnel setup already has the motor mounted much higher than a standard boat such as mine. If he is not pushing the limits of running depth where he goes in the boat, the jakeplate provides no real benefit.
 

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I thought those pathfinders had a raised transom specifically designed to run high in the tunnel and keep the weight of the motor as close to the transom as possible to minimize draft. But never owned one personally.
 

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You’re correct my man. It still squats but on the other side, I’ve seen guys 360 their tunnels with jack plates because they don’t have anything touching the water besides the prop. #tunnelthings
 

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Jack plate or not, a prop needs a certain depth of water to work. Tunnel or no tunnel, at rest, every prop needs this depth of water. As a tunnel hull accelerates the depth of water over the prop increases. Without a jack plate, the prop can't be raised to take advantage of this increased depth. So, a tunnel without a jack plate can't take advantage of the purpose of a tunnel. You get all the disadvantages for nothing. A tunnel hull needs a jack plate.
 

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Argue all you want, myself and Vertigo are giving honest advice. A tunnel with no jackplate is missing out on performance. All these guys crying on the internet about tunnels causing a loss in speed are running them with no jackplate. Being able to fine tune the vertical motor height is much different than just using tilt and trim which changes the angle of the thrust of the prop. It’s not all about holeshot and skinny water performance, a jackplate also allows adjustments that squeeze out every bit of speed a boat and motor combination can produce.
As far as spinning out from having the motor raised too much...it’s all about knowing how to run your rig. I’ve never swapped ends on my Maverick and I run it higher than most likely any skiff out there. My motor at the lowest jackplate setting is higher than most guys have theirs at the highest. I won’t let anyone run my skiff in shallow water that doesn’t know exactly what they are doing for this very reason. It’s just like driving a sports car, you have to know how far you can push it before you lose grip in turns.
Call it arguing if y’all want but I’m pretty confident I know exactly what I’m talking about because I have personal experience with what I post about. Just putting real information out there, not just parroting what I’ve read online.
I’ve heard guys talking about specific people’s rigs and how skinny they run and I see them in person and know it’s BS. A boat with 6” of prop below the hull won’t run in 6” unless it’s chopping bottom and leaving a scar. Some guys seem to think otherwise but you can’t cheat hydrodynamics or physics.
 

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Argue all you want, myself and Vertigo are giving honest advice. A tunnel with no jackplate is missing out on performance. All these guys crying on the internet about tunnels causing a loss in speed are running them with no jackplate. Being able to fine tune the vertical motor height is much different than just using tilt and trim which changes the angle of the thrust of the prop. It’s not all about holeshot and skinny water performance, a jackplate also allows adjustments that squeeze out every bit of speed a boat and motor combination can produce.
As far as spinning out from having the motor raised too much...it’s all about knowing how to run your rig. I’ve never swapped ends on my Maverick and I run it higher than most likely any skiff out there. My motor at the lowest jackplate setting is higher than most guys have theirs at the highest. I won’t let anyone run my skiff in shallow water that doesn’t know exactly what they are doing for this very reason. It’s just like driving a sports car, you have to know how far you can push it before you lose grip in turns.
Call it arguing if y’all want but I’m pretty confident I know exactly what I’m talking about because I have personal experience with what I post about. Just putting real information out there, not just parroting what I’ve read online.
I’ve heard guys talking about specific people’s rigs and how skinny they run and I see them in person and know it’s BS. A boat with 6” of prop below the hull won’t run in 6” unless it’s chopping bottom and leaving a scar. Some guys seem to think otherwise but you can’t cheat hydrodynamics or physics.
You ever run your boat without jackplate?
 
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Like @Vertigo and @Smackdaddy53 said... in order to achieve “the best” performance and get “the most” out of a tunnel hull boat is with a jack plate “period”! Both of these guys said all that needs to be said on the subject so I won’t repeat. Will a tunnel hull run without a jack plate? Sure it will, provided the motor is mounted at the right height. But... the right height on a tunnel changes with hull speed so to get everything out of a tunnel hull that you spent extra $ for you will want/need a jack plate.
 
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Is it worth a grand for a mph or two?
It most definitely is...
In all seriousness, the reduced drag of being able to raise the motor may just increase fuel economy though and that can add up pretty quick! Also, around these parts just being able to idle through the very rocky bottom in a current with the JP up makes it a must at times.
 
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