[jeubank3]

I had an old rolled gunnel bay boat a few years back, then sold it once kids came along. Since then I've just been in a kayak. That changed last weekend when I drove down to pick up a Savanna from Mel at Salt Marsh. We fished around there after picking it up (got into jacks within minutes and buddy caught a snook), and then hit some water near Homosassa the next day on the way home (few decent reds). I think I'm going to enjoy this thing a lot. I'm hoping when I later get a bigger family-size boat that this one will be small/cheap enough to keep instead of selling.

What I've got to figure out first is how to attach cooler tie downs. My feet went a bit to far forward on the Orca while poling and tilted it a couple times - not a good feeling. I'd like to have two for my cooler: 1 near the stern for poling and motoring with a passenger and a 2nd further forward for poling/motoring solo if I'm out alone. Sitting back by the transom solo puts way too much weight to stern and lead to some porpoising when I tested it out. The issue is that they area under the outside edges of the deck is foam filled and not accessible. I'd like to go as low profile as possible (ideally a Kennedy Tiedown deck bolt) since I'll be putting 2 behind the grab bar and most likely 1 up front. I was thinking a well nut could be used, but I don't know if it spread enough force out to keep it from pulling through and messing up the deck. If not that, cooler strap kit with 4 screws will probably be my next best option, but I can see my clumsy ass falling in the water when I trip on one.

Anyone got any experience placing cooler/platform tied downs in areas with no access below the deck? Suggestions for a safe way to anchor?

Best,
James

 

[georgiadrifter]

I’m also interested in the responses. I’m looking at what’s available for cooler tie downs and want something that is flush with the deck when the cooler is not aboard.

This looks interesting:

https://www.kennedytiedown.com/components/threaded-deck-bolt

 

[jeubank3]

That's precisely what I would like to use, if possible.

 

[Battfisher]

The Kennedy threaded deck bolt requires access to the underside of the deck - which you don't have on most small skiffs. You might be able to use stainless zip toggles as long as you seal everything up really well after you install them. Some people will cut out the deck in the area of the tie down and glass in some type of block if you want it to be flush, but you'd have to be really good in finish and color matching to make it look good.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Stainless-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IB1X6

 

[crboggs]

Sweet little boat.

Remember...less is more.

 

[jeubank3]

Sweet little boat.

Remember...less is more.

on this little thing, for sure. fishing gear, cooler seats, lights are about all that will go on. just trying to keep me on as well, lol.

 

[jeubank3]

The Kennedy threaded deck bolt requires access to the underside of the deck - which you don't have on most small skiffs. You might be able to use stainless zip toggles as long as you seal everything up really well after you install them. Some people will cut out the deck in the area of the tie down and glass in some type of block if you want it to be flush, but you'd have to be really good in finish and color matching to make it look good.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Stainless-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IB1X6

yeah, i read that on their website. i emailed them about it and Tom replied they had never tested it, but he was interested to hear how i proposed to use it. i've used well nuts to hold a trolling motor on the bow of my old boat, where i couldn't reach under the deck. that force wasn't all pulling straight up though. the zip toggles look like an interesting option, thanks. i've got no glassing experience, so i'm not gonna mess with cutting anything.

thanks all for the input

 

[Copahee Hound]

I've had a good experience with the Engel Coolers tie down kit. They're not flush, but also don't hurt if you step on them barefoot when the cooler isn't mounted. As a bonus, they haven't left rust stains like the YETI ones did.

 

[EsteroS]

I'm more interested in learning your technique of balancing a longneck w/out spilling while walking the gunnels

 

[Lowtidelowlife]

I had Kennedy tie downs on my j16. Basically drill a hole. Then either use an Allen key to blow out the foam under the glass and fill with thickened epoxy and fasten to that “plug”. Or drill in a few different directions on a 45 to give your plug some legs. But either way. A lot of the Carolina skiff riggers just screw and 5200 but they always ended up with wet foam. The way I’m prescribing I’m sure is what someone else here will recommend. Nice SM. I dig how those pole.

 

[Lowtidelowlife]

Oh yeah. And know how deep you can go. Mark bit with blue tape. Goes without saying but don’t go deeper than your hull.

 

[georgiadrifter]

Call Mel or Rory and see what they recommend.

 

[jeubank3]

Call Mel or Rory and see what they recommend.

I emailed Mel today. Will report back if he has a preferred method.

 

[georgiadrifter]

I upgraded from a Hobie kayak to a Heron 16. The Savanna was in the early stages of production during my Heron build. Hull #1 was just completed while I was there and Mel was really proud and excited about the Savanna. I’m anxious to hear your thoughts on it’s performance....particularly how stable it is when standing and casting a flyrod. I have a few friends that are interested in the Savanna or something similar.

 

[Ccantwell]

I'm going with lowtidelowlifes suggestion... Drill and fill.

 

[jeubank3]

I talked to staff at SM this morning. Mel is out of town all week. She stated that they used a 1/2" backing material under the deck. I think I'm just going to install regular cooler (rtic) straps so they have 4 screws holding each bracket, to spread the force out. Later, when I get/make a platform, I'll test a well nut over the center where I can access the underside of the deck and see how wide it spreads out to distribute the load.

Thanks all for the input.

 

[Tautog166]

Kennedy tie down straps use 2 screws. I drilled and filled and they’re great.

For the future platform, if you have access, why would you want a well nut? Drill and fill that as well. I would use a backing plate or at least a big fender washer underneath.

 

[jeubank3]

I meant just to test to see if there's any movement for placing those in this or another boat where access can't be had. After jiggling a bit, it would get a backing plate.

 

[georgiadrifter]

Could you post pictures of your install when you’re finished? Thanks.

The Engel mounts have four (4) screws per mount. Also 316 polished stainless with stainless screws.

I talked to staff at SM this morning. Mel is out of town all week. She stated that they used a 1/2" backing material under the deck. I think I'm just going to install regular cooler (rtic) straps so they have 4 screws holding each bracket, to spread the force out. Later, when I get/make a platform, I'll test a well nut over the center where I can access the underside of the deck and see how wide it spreads out to distribute the load.

Thanks all for the input.

 

[mro]

I've just recently experienced removing 5200 from some "glued together" aluminum.
Had to use a propane torch.

If your deck is thick enough...
could you make a 1/4" thick piece of stainless, tapped with the desired threads then cut the deck with a router so the plate will fit flush glued with 5200?

When not in use, ss allen screw or just cut the head off a ss screw/bolt and put a slot in it for a screw driver. Keep debris out of the holes.