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Smart tabs don’t work good at all, I would just leave the tabs of versus those pieces of junk.

If you went with lenco you could put the tabs on without booking up the wires, and adjust the tab needed by pulling the pin that connected the actuator to the tab. You will then be able to length or shorter the actuator by rotating it in the body. Then just put the pin back in as a worst case scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
180972

Ready for first round of water testing tomorrow, hatch fits just not right now because I haven’t trimmed the excess fiberglass in the gutters. Have her on my old Jon boat trailer to keep the float on pristine until she’s ready. Deck is just bolted on right now temporarily. Fingers crossed she works as designed 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Pictures and videos coming tomorrow assuming all goes well.
My 125 lb girlfriend can pick up the stern, so I don’t think it weighs more than 200 lbs. Hopefully will get a bathroom scale weight estimate tomorrow too
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
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Spent the day chasing reds with @HunterOnFly in steinhatchee that were shallow enough to have their backs out the water. We had at least a dozen shots at fish within 20 ft. What a way to field test the new skiff!
Overall I’m very happy with how she did. She poles comfortably without bumping bottom in 6 inches, hull slap isn’t an issue when she’s balanced out properly. Tracks straight, spins about the bow very nicely, even a bit too easily. Definitely going to add poling strakes to fix that (it doesn’t have any right now).
As for running, surprisingly no porpoising at all even on a higher trim level with no tabs. She’s very happy paired with the 25 hp, and that ought to be the ideal motor for those that run often loaded down. We had us two, cooler, full tackle and 6 gallons of gas on board and we flirted with 30 mph on my stock Suzuki 25. 28 comfortably. Hole shot was pretty good too. No noticeable flexing of the hull or transom at all despite not having the cap bonded permanently yet. We didn’t get to run her in that big of a chop, but we ended the day dry even after running over our own wake. Also took her out in the gulf a mile or so in a 12 inch chop snd it wasn’t really noticeable with all the dead rise this boat has compared to others in its class.
Only running issue I need to fix is some prop cavitation right as it gets up on plane and in tight turns. Thinking I may lower the stern an inch while leaving the bow at its current height to fix this and make it look a bit sleeker. Input on this would be appreciated. I could instead build just the transom itself a bit lower, add a set back jack plate, cav plate, or a combo of those to make it run perfectly depending on a customer’s needs. The way I see it, keeping the freeboard this large at the stern will help stop water coming in when anchored or staked stern to seas, or poling backwards from the bow as I like to do sometimes when solo. Will have to experiment a bit more. I’ve got some good running videos that I’ll upload somewhere soon and link to.
Thanks to everyone who’s shown interest, given me advice and input throughout the process. I’m confident this boat will be a great offering in the smaller affordable skiff market if I can pull this whole thing off. Now on to fine tuning it and getting on with making this running plug prototype look pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Got her back in the gulf today to take on some bigger chop supplied by the 10 mph onshore winds. She absolutely ate it up, rode into the head sea just as smooth and solidly as my friend’s 18 ft BT while keeping us dry the whole trip. The big spray rails worked beautifully.
I set the motor back using a couple of spacers about an inch, and that fixed the minor cavitation I was experiencing while still allowing it to run pretty shallow without a jack plate. I’m thinking I will incorporate a 1.5 inch setback into the mold. As for the addition of poling strakes, I kept a little bit of skeg in this time and that had it tracking and spinning exactly how I want it to, but strakes are still in the plans.
Best of all, I finally got the good fish karma going after a lot of close refusals last time out with some trout and a nice thick redfish that we found tailing in 8 inches of water on the falling tide. Felt great to pole my buddy onto his first red in 3 years, especially while up so shallow in the prototype boat.
Now time to get the boat back on the work station and get the longboard and sander back out before I have too much fun with it. Hoping to have a mold within a couple more months.

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Is this a conchfish ?
Nope, it’s my own design that will be coming to market in the spring, but as you can clearly see it’s got a lot of influence from it.
The design came about by reverse engineering the conchfish/whipray to figure out why it’s so great, and then figuring out how I could refine it to make it even better.
 

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Nope, it’s my own design that will be coming to market in the spring, but as you can clearly see it’s got a lot of influence from it.
The design came about by reverse engineering the conchfish/whipray to figure out why it’s so great, and then figuring out how I could refine it to make it even better.
You're gonna improve Morejohn's design then? Gotya.
 

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please list the improvements you made, your reasoning for the changes and what they will accomplish. not busting your chops, actually interested to hear this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
please list the improvements you made, your reasoning for the changes and what they will accomplish. not busting your chops, actually interested to hear this.
I wanted this boat to have best in class ride in chop and fit more easily in a standard garage. Here’s a recap of the small changes:
A little bit deadrise which extends further aft
Spray rails are slightly wider
Spray rails terminate earlier like you see on most larger skiffs - more displacement volume at the stern to combat stern squat with heavier motors
The big difference: this boat is optimized by iterating it through flow simulations to be much more efficient on the pole than the skiffs currently out there. I’ll draw up a quick sketch to show how
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I wanted this boat to have best in class ride in chop and fit more easily in a standard garage. Here’s a recap of the small changes:
A little bit deadrise which extends further aft
Spray rails are slightly wider
Spray rails terminate earlier like you see on most larger skiffs - more displacement volume at the stern to combat stern squat with heavier motors
The big difference: this boat is optimized by iterating it through flow simulations to be much more efficient on the pole than the skiffs currently out there. I’ll draw up a quick sketch to show how
This is in 2D so it doesn’t tell the full story but it gets the point across. Most skiffs have a waterline shape like on the left, a dorito. This is very inefficient at displacement speeds. You don’t see any sailboats or canoes that look like this. My skiff has a waterline profile more like the one on the right. This shape is efficient. I have done the flow simulations with my boat’s cad model to back these claims up, and though I can’t measure anything on the real thing, it feels dang good on the pole, it just glides through the water. What this translates to in real life is its both easier to push, and one push will get you more distance, so you have to push less frequently.
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Last thing that’s a work in progress: I’m working now to apply what I’ve learned working with aerospace composites to boats. The goal is a lighter and stiffer layup than the standard 1708 based ones that most people out there are using
 

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Look up post bake epoxies. drake is doing this with their skiffs
Last thing that’s a work in progress: I’m working now to apply what I’ve learned working with aerospace composites to boats. The goal is a lighter and stiffer layup than the standard 1708 based ones that most people out there are using
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 · (Edited)
I don't think CM's skiffs have the wedge shape you show.
I CADed up the CF as a baseline. It’s less wedge shaped than others. It would seem to be a natural occurrence when you design a flat stern and entry forward. Has to be intentionally counteracted. The CF was the benchmark I compared to. When I saw that I had 20 to 40% less drag than it depending on speed, I was happy. To get any less drag you have to compromise on other design goals
 

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Sam, to date I have answered 15 of your emails asking me all kinds of advice on materials, how to build etc
The best way to show myself and your possible future clients your improved hull shape would be to overlay your new designs hull lines over my CF hull lines drawing that you have used from my plans design. I would also ask you to explain your years of running both the Whipray designs, your time in the Rounded Stern Conchfish Design’s to explain all the nuances that a smaller shorter knockoff designs details will be enhanced with less displacement, waterline length, less hp capacity, interior volume to convince your buyers what’s been done.
Like I said in my last email back to you saying that you have nothing to worry about from me as to copyright infringements, it’s just you have done nothing new.
I told Sam just like I have told you all, I post all my life’s work on my blogs online to try and encourage others to build, design new skiffs, Like James Curry has done, the gentleman omegada in la.doing their thing.
Would your collage teachers condone what you are doing as an ethical A+ project.
I would suggest you finish building your Skiff, then the hull molds, build, sell a few skiffs and then let your builds talk for themselves through the buying public. To stop emailing me asking how to design and build your Skiff questions and here as it’s not a good business plan for buyers confidence in you.
In the meantime, show us the two hull lines drawings superimposed together. I am very happy for everyone to see my life’s work. It’s a great way to see the Dorito effect of a simulated computer program looks against my ole time seat of the pants approach.
 

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Here’s two versions of what you are improving on. I want to learn, really. This is why I gladly share all my designs with everyone.
I see you have a flatter more voluminous bow, the vee in the stern depending on its shape could mean less volume where needed but please show us in your sectional lines drawing to see the improved on vee and how it compares. Next the spray rails and how they exit into the hull aft. This is done on many designs with myself starting this movement with my Marquesa design before I think you were born and many of today’s builders where your age now.
I feel we are all looking to the past to improve on the future, my suggestion is to just try next time to make your splash more original into this market.
 
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