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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

Over the last couple months I’ve been designing and getting ready to build a new skiff. I’ve integrated what I see as the best features of several great skiffs, and iterated the design through flow simulations to make a hull that should be one of the most efficient in it’s class on the pole. The hull will only produce between about 2 and 8 lbs of drag at typical poling speeds. This skiff is designed for those who want to access the shallowest, tightest areas with the best fishing, but it has characteristics to make it more seaworthy than other skiffs in its class, such as a large upper chine spray rail, a bit more V forward, and slightly more freeboard than most skiffs it’s size. This thread is to document the build of the first one-off, which will be a simple and ultralight build, and will be FOR SALE for an affordable price when it’s completed this summer. Below are the specs, materials, a CAD shot, and the strongback/jig setup (next task is to fair the mold down to a tight tolerance of 1/32 in). I'll update the thread as the build progresses.

Specs:
LOA: 15 ft 9 in
Max deckline beam: 63 in
5 in draft with a 20 hp motor and 700 lbs of people and gear


Build materials:
3/4 in aircell foam core (doubled up to 1 1/2 in at high load bearing areas)
Coosa (lightweight variety) transom
Epoxy/glass
Awlgrip or alexseal paint
Absolutely zero wood

171757


171758
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
171766

171767

More CAD snaps of a 3D sketch rather than a solid, and of the final iteration with details shown like the convex transom with rounded corners. The slight taper from the max beam at 7/10 of the way up to the bow to the transom is what gives it such great efficiency at displacement speeds. The stern is still wide enough and the weight balance is such that it won't stern squat with up to 150 lbs of motor/jack plate etc hanging from it. Optimal motor will be a modern 20 horse or a yammy/merc 25 2 stroke if that's your style.
 

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'04 HB Devilray Merc 25 HP
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Looks killer!
 
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Nice lines! Subscribed, and looking forward to following your progress
 
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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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Looks like it will be sweet. Very familiar with a few nice tweaks. I drew up the Conchfish hull in SW too. It's so useful for quick displacement calcs and things of that nature, and I used it to help tweak my numbers when I extended the hull and changed the transom. SW Flow is a fun tool as well, but I've only ever used it for internal flow.

Is this your first build? Really looking forward to following along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like it will be sweet. Very familiar with a few nice tweaks. I drew up the Conchfish hull in SW too. It's so useful for quick displacement calcs and things of that nature, and I used it to help tweak my numbers when I extended the hull and changed the transom. SW Flow is a fun tool as well, but I've only ever used it for internal flow.

Is this your first build? Really looking forward to following along.
Yeah I’m trying to maintain good design ideas like on the conchfish and on a BT micro, and add some tweaks and improvements on top.
Ive built two boats out of cheap plywood that are mine, materials super limited by my budget. This is my first foam boat, but I’ve been working with sandwich composite design and construction here at UF for 4 years now in a couple different positions.
Got the port side bow stripped and this aircell is a joy to work with compared to wood!
 

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There's a small lake 5 minutes from my house, great for largemouth bass fishing, with a maximum 10 hp motor restriction. I would love to see how this skiff performs with a Tohatsu 9.9 when the time comes for testing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There's a small lake 5 minutes from my house, great for largemouth bass fishing, with a maximum 10 hp motor restriction. I would love to see how this skiff performs with a Tohatsu 9.9 when the time comes for testing!
It should plane out just fine with 9.9 if lightly loaded. It’ll struggle with 2 people and gear. Anticipated dry weight is 200-250 lbs. I’ll be sea trialing with my 25 Suzuki, which will just about launch it into orbit at WOT
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pics of the hull mostly stripped over the mold coming soon. I’m interested in hearing some opinions on how much rigging I should do before I sell, and how much I should leave up to the buyer. I was thinking of selling it as a hull with just a poling platform, grab bar, LED Nav lights (that don’t require a 12v battery), and trim tabs on a new float on trailer. Also recessed anchor cleats and push pole clips. I wasn’t going to include a motor or pole, but I’m thinking of ordering a new Suzuki 20 to put on the back of it and sell it with, as that is really the motor it’s designed for. For the pole, I’m developing an ultralight push pole layup design and production process right now so I may likely include one if that goes to plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think it will be much easier to sell with a sea trial. I would be hesitant to buy a new-design hull that I had never driven, even though it's a proven design in theory. Look forward to pictures!
Yes I will be sea trialing for anyone with cash in hand. I own a Suzuki 25 that I can sea trial with regardless of whether or not I sell it with a motor. It’ll be a bit more power than the boat needs but it’ll work
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also going to conduct my own thorough sea trials before listing it and make a promotional/demonstrative video of it in action performing well
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
172492

Didnt get an opportunity to work on the boat today so here’s a mostly up to date picture. Most of the stripping is done apart from a few of the more technical areas. Hadn’t faired down the spray rail yet in that picture.

Another question: what paint is best for me to use if I decide I want to pull a mold off of this hull? Or, do I need to pull the mold prepaint?
 

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Brandon, FL
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You don't need to spend money on paint to make a mold. Paint it just before you sell it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You need to at least use a high build primer and then a sealer and sand down to 320 to get a good surface to pull a mold from. Just my two cent
Seems reasonable. I may try to go finer, we’ll see. I’ve had success building small molds with 3D printed plugs and epoxy but never tried something this big on my own
 
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