"New" Outboard...worth keeping?

rkmurphy · Feb 2, 2009

Just picked this up for free. Sitting in a yard for God knows how long. Luckily...it was covered up. The guy just wanted it gone. It will be for a J16 15" transom. Should I keep it or sell it? It looks like it has some sort of shaft extension on it that I would have removed. I can't do any of the work myself so I would have to pay to have it done. Don't know if it runs or not or what it needs. I also want to get a tiller kit for it...is that possible/cost efficient? I'll remove the cowl tonight and see what it looks like underneath. It really is cleaner than it looks...just needs to be hosed off. Here's pics

B.Lee · Feb 2, 2009

Looks kinda rough,I don't think I'd spend too much on it trying to get it running. These motors aren't bad, but they are loud and rough.

You might be better off cleaning it up and selling on Ebay for whatever it'll bring. Maybe even part it out. Definitely clean her up good first, someone out there needs some parts off of it.

On the other hand, if you clean it up, put some fresh gas/oil in it and it cranks and runs, hang it on the back and run it. The price is right!

rkmurphy · Feb 2, 2009

Can't start her...no controls. Like I said...I want tiller. Noise, as long as it isn't horrible, isn't an issue. I'm not sure what you mean by rough. I just want it to be efficient on fuel (as a 2 stroke can be...) and RELIABLE. It's mostly going to get me to my fishing spot and I'll pole or troll when I get there...but still would love to go joy riding from time to time. What about the shaft? Is it possible to remove that extension?

And what about the tiller situation?

Brett · Feb 2, 2009

Without more info, I'd guess that to be an early '70's commercial 40 hp.
The 2 part lower unit is what indicates the commercial usage.
Was easier to service on a regular basis without special pullers.
Electric start remote setup from the factory. Standard engine was 15"
shaft, to get the 20" shaft an extension and longer driveshaft was needed.
To remove the extension, you'll have to find a 15" drive shaft.
Good luck doing that with such an old motor. Seeing the corrosion on
the bolt heads tells me trying to disassemble is going to be a major
job. Sitting as long as it has, I bet the pistons and rings are one with
the engine block.

rkmurphy · Feb 2, 2009

Not sure exactly how long it has been sitting...previous owner confirmed that his father had it on a boat not horribly long ago. I would guess it hasn't been sitting more than 5-10 years. Can the electric start be by-passed for pull? I guess I would have to modify the cowl...

Corrosion isn't bad at all...looks worse in the picture. I'll look at it further when I get home...at the library studying right now. How can I tell what's going on with the pistons and rings? I guess I'll be able to tell more when I take the cowl off...

I'll post more pictures later tonight or tomorrow.

And no one has answered my tiller question!

Brett · Feb 2, 2009

Converting to tiller would be difficult, not impossible.
Finding a pull start cowl and assembly will also be
problematic, due to age.

To see if the engine has seized, try to turn the flywheel.

rkmurphy · Feb 2, 2009

Converting to tiller would be difficult, not impossible.
Finding a pull start cowl and assembly will also be
problematic, due to age.

To see if the engine has seized, try to turn the flywheel.
Click to expand...

That's why you're the guru and Microskiff.com Chuck Norris. I'll update by the end of the night...which may be late for me...exams for the next 2 weeks...

Jacbo · Feb 2, 2009

If the engine was extended to 20" using a kit, it may have a removable driveshaft extention and water tube extention. In that case all you have to do is take those off and bolt the lower back on... might as well change the impeller while your in there.

As far as the tiller, I can see the throttle shaft in the pics and there seems to be some kind of knob(?) where the tiller would bolt on. Try taking that off and see if there's a brass gear under there, if so any older johnnyrude tiller will bolt right up. It would take one of the clamshell tillers used by OMC from the 50s all the way up to the mid 80s, when the switched from shaft driven to cable type throttles.

Keep in mind this engine will never perform like a modern 40. In my opinion the older OMC lower units with pin type props always held these motors back. There is virtually no prop selection and the props used are small for the power. It probably won't be fuel efficient or fast, but with basic maintainance, the older motors can prove to be some of the most reliable.

rkmurphy · Feb 2, 2009

Hey as long as I can run all day on less than 6 gallons and go 35+ at WOT I'm not complaining. I'm bringing my computer out to the garage with me when I check it tonight...too much info given to absorb! Haha thanks a lot everyone. I'll update by the end of tonight or tomorrow night. If everything I was told to check looks good I'll bring it to a repuatable shop within the next couple weeks and have it completely checked out.

Pray she's a keeper...this motorless boat situation is KILLING me.

rkmurphy · Feb 3, 2009

Here are the guts:

Brett: Tried to spin the flywheel and at first it wouldn't move but I wasn't really giving it any umph. So I gave it a little nidge and it moved fine. Now I can move it pretty easily. I didn't turn it too much because I'm sure there's a lack of lubrication in there. It didn't seem stuck in any way...but...may need a rebuild...I'll leave that up to whoever inspects it. I have no idea what's normal and what's not.

Tiller doesn't look difficult at all. Unbolt one part and hook up a tiller. Looks simple. Gear shift on the left side of cowl (if facing the motor). Tough to move at first but moves just fine, now. Everything probably just needs a good cleaning and fresh grease.

Corrosion is very minimal no matter how the pictures make it appear. Most of what appears to be rust in the pictures is honestly just the nasty dirt I found that filled the inside of the cowl. There is some corrosion but, like I said, very minimal.

Anyone have any more thoughts? I want to get it checked out within the next few weeks. Any good/cheap outboard mechanics in the Tampa area who will THOROUGHLY check her without asking for my first born?

B.Lee · Feb 3, 2009

Hmmm, that's three things you will likely not find in the same place:
1. Good mechanic
2. Cheap mechanic
3. A mechanic who will touch this motor

By loud, I mean twice as loud as a 25hp 2-stroke merc

By rough, I mean they have really tough rubber mounts, because they shake like crazy at idle.

Fuel efficiency? What's that? Put in enough gas/oil to run, then a lot more for lubrication, then dump the leftover. All day on 6 gallons won't cut it. Probably won't get 35 out of it either, it's no hot rod.

Don't spend too mych money on it, trust me. Get a few dollars from it as a parts motor, and invest in what you want. Patience will pay off big time in this case.

noeettica · Feb 3, 2009

Bubba in Z-Hills 352.458.3162

rkmurphy · Feb 3, 2009

Hmmm, that's three things you will likely not find in the same place:
1. Good mechanic
2. Cheap mechanic
3. A mechanic who will touch this motor

By loud, I mean twice as loud as a 25hp 2-stroke merc

By rough, I mean they have really tough rubber mounts, because they shake like crazy at idle.

Fuel efficiency? What's that? Put in enough gas/oil to run, then a lot more for lubrication, then dump the leftover. All day on 6 gallons won't cut it. Probably won't get 35 out of it either, it's no hot rod.

Don't spend too mych money on it, trust me. Get a few dollars from it as a parts motor, and invest in what you want. Patience will pay off big time in this case.
Click to expand...

Is the motor really that bad? Can anyone else confirm this? I don't want to put money into something I'm not going to be happy with...

I don't mind putting $500 or $600 if it's going to turn out great, last, and do what I want it to (look pretty with paint, run smooth, and push the J16 efficiently and relatively quick...33-36mph). I'll still be way under my budget ($1,000).

Flyline · Feb 3, 2009

Hmmm, that's three things you will likely not find in the same place:
1. Good mechanic
2. Cheap mechanic
3. A mechanic who will touch this motor

By loud, I mean twice as loud as a 25hp 2-stroke merc

By rough, I mean they have really tough rubber mounts, because they shake like crazy at idle.

Fuel efficiency? What's that? Put in enough gas/oil to run, then a lot more for lubrication, then dump the leftover. All day on 6 gallons won't cut it. Probably won't get 35 out of it either, it's no hot rod.

Don't spend too mych money on it, trust me. Get a few dollars from it as a parts motor, and invest in what you want. Patience will pay off big time in this case.
Click to expand...

Is the motor really that bad? Can anyone else confirm this? I don't want to put money into something I'm not going to be happy with...

I don't mind putting $500 or $600 if it's going to turn out great, last, and do what I want it to. I'll still be way under my budget ($1,000).
Click to expand...

Any marine mechanic normally charge u $60-90 bucks an hour to just inspect the motor or carb cleaned or maybe they inspected and turn out it's a bad motor......don't waste your money on mechainc if u not sure about it.

Bring it over to my shop and I will do it for beer and teach u few things about basically maintence on motors and what to look for before u buy a used motor.

Let me know....

rkmurphy · Feb 3, 2009

Whitesnooky I sent you a pm on the CG forum

B.Lee · Feb 3, 2009

It's not that it's that bad of a motor, it just that it isn't a good enough motor to dump any money into. $500-600 would buy you a better, good running motor vs. spending the money on this one only to have a motor that still isn't that great.

I'd take whitesnooky up on the offer to help. Make it a learning experience, see what it's made of, what to look for in a used engine, etc. Chances are a carb cleaning might get it running fine, anything more and I would buy another.

rkmurphy · Feb 3, 2009

It's not that it's that bad of a motor, it just that it isn't a good enough motor to dump any money into. $500-600 would buy you a better, good running motor vs. spending the money on this one only to have a motor that still isn't that great.

I'd take whitesnooky up on the offer to help. Make it a learning experience, see what it's made of, what to look for in a used engine, etc. Chances are a carb cleaning might get it running fine, anything more and I would buy another.
Click to expand...

I've been looking for a while now and can't seem to find much that I would be ok with for $1,000 let alone $500-600. Plus, if I find a motor at any of those prices I'm probably going to have to money into it anyways. I got this for free...so $500-600 to have a like new reliable motor wouldn't be that bad at all.

But then there's the issue of performance...you got to me with that one...

Are there even props available for these?

B.Lee · Feb 3, 2009

...a like new reliable motor ...
Click to expand...

Not likely. A decent old motor, possibly, but it'll still be an ongoing maintenance project to keep it running. They were like that when new, high maintenance.

Your J16 would probably do fine with a 15hp, but it won't run 35mph. A member on here just sold a late model 15hp Evinrude for $500. Patience is the key in finding a great deal.

It's your motor now, I'm just telling you my thoughts on it. I'd save my money.

rkmurphy · Feb 3, 2009

I really do appreciate the input and I apologize if I seem like I'm being ignorant (right word?). I'm just trying to sort out the situation. I'm good with handling money...not repairing motors and boats. That's why I rely on the good people at Microskiff to guide me to where I should place my money (that I sometimes don't have )

So thanks B. Lee...seriously.

And keep the thoughts and info coming...I'm off to work.

Jacbo · Feb 3, 2009

I wish you were closer to my coast. I love working on old motors, and most importantly... spending as little as possible to get one running!

P.s. The older big motors (25+) tend to be a little rough at idle but smooth as silk up past about 2000 rpms.

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