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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello MS members.

New skiff owner from GA here, and super excited to have access to all the awesome content on here. I just picked up a new to me Riverhawk 13 this past weekend and took it on it's maiden voyage. I'm hooked.

I've never owned a skiff before, but I'm no stranger to boats, or fishing. We currently have a 32 CC, and enjoy offshore fishing, and diving when we're not camping or goofing off at the lake.

I bought the skiff with the intentions of hauling it inside our toy hauler RV to camping spots all over the SE. I always see these amazing bays, rivers, intercostal areas that look amazing to explore, but since we're towing the RV I can't have the boat with us as well. First world problem at its finest.

My plans are to keep the skiff where it doesn't need a trailer, and everything can be trucked and assembled at the ramp, or waterside. With the boat being right at 100 lbs and a 9.9 being near the same it's doable... at least until one of us busts our tail on a slick boat ramp and send the engine flying into the water. :)

I know... it's going to be tough since you mod the heck out of these things, but I'm hoping that I can build a simple, yet effective travel package in this one.

So far the short list of mods includes...
- EFI 9.9 Zuke 4 stroke (15" SHAFT)
- Detachable grab bar
- Front trolling motor mount
- Storage/battery box mods in the seats
- Flush mount running lights

Did I miss anything, or would you make any different recommendations?
 

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Fly-By-Night
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3,138 Posts
Get @anytide to build your trolling motor mount with an anchor pin. I had the same boat and he made one for me, it worked and fit perfect.

Also if it didn't have one already, you need to put a alum sleeve over the transom. The way they are shaped with the lip at the rear edge does not allow an outboard to get a solid bite, and is a potential for lost outboard.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Get @anytide to build your trolling motor mount with an anchor pin. I had the same boat and he made one for me, it worked and fit perfect.

Also if it didn't have one already, you need to put a alum sleeve over the transom. The way they are shaped with the lip at the rear edge does not allow an outboard to get a solid bite, and is a potential for lost outboard.
Thanks for the tips. Any recos on the transom sleeve? I'm hoping someone around here makes them .
 

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Fly-By-Night
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Thanks for the tips. Any recos on the transom sleeve? I'm hoping someone around here makes them .
You can prob get one from RiverHawk, or have a local alum guy weld you one in 5 min. Just 3 pieces of 1/8 plate welded in a squared off U shape that will fit the transom. I just screwed mine in from the inside, and sealed with 4200, so I wouldn't have to worry about water intrusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Fly-By-Night
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No similar though, I made mine without the side pieces you see on that model. My motor was a 15" shaft and the transom with the alum on it was about the right height, so no need for elevation, yours may be different. Stick the motor on the boat and look to see where the anti cavitation plate sits, on that boat you'll want it about flush with the bottom or up to just barely above the top of the drain plug hole if that makes sense. That hull is not designed to have the motor up super high or have the motor in a configuration where you're trying to lift the bow and really air it out.
 
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