[Brett]

1 quart of paint and 1 of thinner

5 years of use, still looks the same on my plywood epoxy hull

 

[Stormchaser]

Instead of making a separate thread for basically the same question, I figure I'd just chime in here if that's OK. Looks like Kooker and I are doing basically the same modification to similar skiffs. I'm adding front and rear decks to my 14' Mitchell, removing the rear bench. The middle is staying for now, and the front is not really a bench and will be covered by my front deck.

So Brett, can you be more specific in your direction? I purchased a nice, smooth piece of interior 1/2" ply, and plan on constructing a 1x2 frame for sturdiness. The guy at the wood supply also rebuilds/refabs boats, and had some great pics to back up his work. He advised, instead of epoxy, using fiberglass resin, making sure to coat all 6 sides, then priming. At that point, he offered a 1/2 gallon of unused gel coat that he will mix for color of my choice, for free. He has it left over from a 19' Kenner he is finished restoring.

I started on the front deck today, got it cut out to shape, beveled the edges to fit the curvature of the hull sides. I was planning on constructing the frame under it, then attaching it to the hull via stainless steel bolts and nuts thru the hull sides. (deck will be nearly flush with the top of gunnels)

What further or different advice would you be able to offer?

Thanks in advance...

 

[Stormchaser]

This is mine at the moment...rained cut me off this afternoon.

 

[Brett]

I've sealed plywood with polyester resin and glassed over it.
It works, just doesn't have the strength or water resistance that epoxy has.
As a result over time moisture will cause the polyester resin to separate from the wood.
After that separation occurs, rot develops and the plywood turns to mud.
For a quick deck job like you're doing it'll work.
I've simply come to prefer working with epoxy.

On small boats where my layout changed regularly,
I've used exterior grade plywood and oil based paints.
Cheap, quick, easy to replace when the next configuration is thought up.
Lifespan of a couple-three years.

 

[Stormchaser]

I appreciate the advice. Like Kooker, I'm not looking for it to be a Hell's Bay (was actually thinking of calling it a Hell's BayOU lol). But also like Kooker, I'd like to do it right the first time.

So to clarify your first post, just to make sure I understand, I can use Interlux on top of plywood encapsulated in epoxy resin? Also, with regards to non-skid, what would be your advice there?

Sorry for the amateurish questions, but I'm a full blown amateur lol.

 

[Brett]

From my build

Tape off the outlines of the areas to be painted

Sand the area to be painted to remove the gloss
wear respiratory protection, epoxy is a strong irritant.

Vacuum up the dust, wipe the surface to be painted with the solvent
recommended by the manufacturer of the paint you decide to use.
I used InterDeck, non-skid already mixed in, rolled atop sanded epoxy.
Hasn't flaked or peeled in 5 years, really is non-skid when wet.

Follow the instructions on the label of the paint can
and the manufacturer's website. They have videos

Let dry, peel off the tape

 

[Stormchaser]

I appreciate it, man. Thanks!

 

[Stormchaser]

Purchased West System 105 and the hardener yesterday. I'm off work right now, but have other responsibilities, (kids, wife, baseball season for two little boys). I'm gonna put the progress of the decks in my thread, and Kooker and I are gonna have a race to completion once he gets his Mitchell lol.