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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, My son and I are remodeling his 14 Wenzel. We are using 1/2" Divinycell covered in 1708 and polyester resin. We have had mixed results getting a good bond. The first time it happened I chalked it up to not having the core wetted out enough. From there on we have thoroughly wet the core out, layer the cloth chopped side down, worked it a little and then more on top. Can someone please outline the steps they would use to do this? Also.....do you guys wrap the cloth or leave it long and trim it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Cert. Yamaha technician
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Your supposed to have the chop strand Matt facing the coring, not the cloth weave.
Also do a hot coat with resin on the coring before laying up the 1708.
I personally would hot coat the core, then do a layer of chop Matt then do your 1708 for a good bond. And if your not using a resin roller, Get one
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input guys. We have definitely been placing the chopped strand towards the core. We have not been using a resin roller. We have been using a plastic spreader and chip brush. What is the difference between "wetting out" and "hot coating"?
 

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Before you waste alot more money on materials. Get a couple $10 bubble rollers to work out your glass. As cut said, I'd also hot coat + a layer of 1.5oz mat on the core and roll out and layup the 1708 while the mat is still kicking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks again for the input. I will see about getting some 1.5 oz mat and some rollers. So, it sounds like maybe I'm having some bubble issues maybe? Isn't it best to work from the inside of the panel outward? Also.....do you hot coat between the 1.5 oz mat and the 1708? How about wrapping the edges? Is that's standard practice to do that or do yo normally let the glass extend out past the edge and trim it after it sets up? It seems like wrapping it would be stronger but after its tabbed in I don't know if it matters?
 

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I always put a light coat between layers. That 1708 can sometimes be a pain to wet out and it helps to keep from having to pull it up to fix dry spots. DOnt try and wrap the edges. leave it a couple of inches wide on the sides and wet it out so it lays down on the edge. after it cures, just grind the slack off. You willplay hell trying to wrap that 1708 around an edge. This I also assume you are doing a flat panel and then plan on tabbing that into the boat.
 

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You can also try trimming any excess edges flush with a razor blade once the resin has jelled but not hard. Not sure if the glass you are using is too thick but it's worth a shot as it works with multiple layers of jelled 6oz cloth. It will save you a mess grinding and sanding. Once fully hardened this is not an option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Awesome! Thanks again. Another question.....do you guys put any weight on your panels as the set up when doing flat panels on a bench?
 

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Did you have any luck bonding the glass to the core? I have been trying on a small piece with no luck. I am using 6oz cloth with epoxy resin. I have tried plain Divinycell, no luck. I scored the core, no luck. It is 3/4 H80 Divinycell, so it is plenty stiff just need to get some adhesion. I'm starting to worry I have 10 4x8 sheets of this core and starting to think it is futile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No Gavin I haven't been able to work on the boat in a few weeks due to work and weather. I have decided it's not worth my time, energy and materials until the temps hit 50 degrees or so. I plan on doing what the guys have suggested on this thread though, going with the 1.5 oz mat first and using a bubble roller. It has been below freezing here in south east Virginia for awhile now with temps hitting the single digits.............I'm over it :mad:
 

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Brandon, FL
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Gavin,
I lay my fiberglass on a sheet of tempered glass and wet it out, then I wet out the piece of foam, then I lay the wet fiberglass over the foam and roll out the bubbles.

When using epoxy I hardly ever use any chopped strand mat especially in this situation.

Also make sure your temps are high enough.
 

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Light, Strong, Cheap. Pick Two.
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You're coreing the floor right?

Heres what I did in my boat and it worked fine.  I used 1" divynal and 1708.

I would wet out a layer of 1708 on the floor(use an air roller), then took my core and layed it scored side up over a 55 gal drum to open up all the scores.  I mixed up some 3m microbaloons and polyester resin to made a thickened paste and then catalyzed it at 2% MEKP.  Then I used an 8" drywall knife to smear the putty into the core filling all the open scores and generally covering it about 1/8" thick.  Then I layed it in the boat where I wanted it and rolled it pretty hard to get all the air out.  After it cures, come back with the butt end of a screwdriver and tap each square of core material.  it will sound hollow if it didn't bond properly.  Cut them out and re-putty them in.  When I was done with that I came back with a grinder and trimmed  up the edges to fair them in with the floor of the boat. then I layed 2 layers of 1708 on the top.

Its all documented in the Fowl River 16 build in the bragging section.
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1342645031/75

This worked great and I have had no issues. Its been 2 years.
 

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01 Hells Bay Guide.07 ECC LOSTMEN-sold
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What Ducknut is saying is true for epoxy only. That's the benefit of expoxy's superior bonding strength. You don't have to have all these layers of chop for bonding. Thereby reducing the overall weight of the layup schedule in theory. But with vinyl ester and especially polyester you have to have chop mat between every layer of woven.
 
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