Dedicated To The Smallest Of Skiffs banner
21 - 36 of 36 Posts

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Went out and took a picture of mine. Almost looks like your is mounted too low possibility? The fact that it’s pulling the screws out of the transom would point me towards either it’s mounted low and there is a lot of pressure on it possible while running or maybe poling.

Second possibility is that area of the core is weak or something and you can’t get a good bite with the screws.

crappy nighttime picture.
View attachment 193462
Mac, I think you're right--maybe a tad low, and definitely hitting the bottom--probably when loading the boat on the trailer.
 

·
Curmudgeon Emeritus
1998 Egret C/K 167
Joined
·
5,425 Posts
I believe "in a perfect world" the ducer is level or just slightly below the hull by fractions. However especially in your case the ducer should not be the lowest part of the hull as poling it along the bottom may cause some of your issues or as you mention above it could be the trailer bunks if they extend past the hull. All are possibilities.
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
I have the all-in-one transducer on my center console and for the side scan to work it has to be below the hull. I never use the side scan so I'm thinking about changing to a regular transducer. The all-in-one won't read at speed and I broke the bracket a couple of months ago when my buddy backed the trailer in at an angle. Boat missed the front bunks and the transducer hit the back bunk. Didn't know it until I saw it hanging from the cable later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
867 Posts
The only reason you need perfect mount is if you use depth at speed, for tech skiffs that does not matter much for me. I use aerials and knowledge when running super skinny and when deeper doesn’t matter anyway. If using structure scan it doesn’t work at speed so no value there. I would raise it up just above the hull. That’s my thought
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
450 Posts
Let it dry out, take a syringe and it inject resin into the holes. Before it completely sets, put the screws in. Afterwards you will basically have tapped holes to secure the transducer
 

·
Registered
1999 Carolina Skiff 16
Joined
·
1,184 Posts
You guys reminded me - my old Garmin 240 Blue fishfinder had a transducer mount with a "pop-up" feature that snapped loose from a catch when you hit something with it and let the transducer swing up. It was adjustable for tension.

It was a little awkward to re-set - had to reach down with a gaff handle or some such to push it down till it snapped back in place......but I popped mine several times, so the inconvenience was worth saving a transducer.

I've looked online and can't find anything like it. Any ideas ??
My Lowrance has a mount like that. It has 2 serrated washers and a rubber washer, and the 'ducer has a serrated mount. You can adjust the tension with the locknut holding everything together. If it is adjusted right it will "kick up" when it hits something solid, but stay stationary in the water running at speed.
Search for "kick up transducer mount" and see if there is one available for your unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
Just got a reply back i guess you will need a 7-9 pin adapter cable to use with simrad evo series not sure about the go series. Ordered the pdt wbl a few days back. Sorry not trying to hijack just adding some info
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Let it dry out, take a syringe and it inject resin into the holes. Before it completely sets, put the screws in. Afterwards you will basically have tapped holes to secure the transducer
Ron, got it remounted and as you suggested, used a syringe to inject the epoxy into the old screw holes. Raised it up just a tad, and used self-tapping stainless screws with 5200, so I should be good to go!
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
450 Posts
Ron, got it remounted and as you suggested, used a syringe to inject the epoxy into the old screw holes. Raised it up just a tad, and used self-tapping stainless screws with 5200, so I should be good to go!
hope works well for you, it’s always worked for me
 

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Filled the old holes, used new stainless self tapping screws with 5200 to remount the transducer. Worked out great. Then spent a couple hours putting a new coat of Collinite Fleet Wax on the Waterman!

Rectangle Wood Flooring Tints and shades Hardwood

Mousetrap Road surface Asphalt Font Material property


Hood Wood Tool Bumper Floor


Boat trailer Boat Watercraft Naval architecture Wheel



She's ready to roll again!
 

·
Curmudgeon Emeritus
1998 Egret C/K 167
Joined
·
5,425 Posts
Looks good. Fingers crossed it resolves your issue! Let me know if you want to wet test it Monday... LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,124 Posts
I was going to say, I actually leave mine hinged up about 75 percent of the time. I really only use the water temp regularly. Fishing flats and such, If Im going to fish deeper I just push it down for the way. Mine sticks about 1/4-3/8s below the hull so it catches first when Im poling. Surprising how little you need it when you turn it up and it just doesn't give you any info:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: DBStoots

·
I Love microskiff.com!
Joined
·
73 Posts
Looks like you did a good job however I would not use the flat heat screws. You might want to consider replacing them with a pan hear screw one size larger. You will have better contact on the bracket to the hull.. a flat washer would also help with the load
 
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
Top