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Anyone using this knot to attach bite tippet to class bimini for big Tarpon ?
 

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I just looked at the knot, it looks like after you finish it, it leaves you with 2 strands of your class tippet, which makes it not IGFA legal if I am thinking correct...?

Most guys that use bimini's in there tarpon leaders are using a huffnagle knot, but even the old school guys I know are moving to the slim beauty...
 

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I use the Slim Beauty for lighter shock (or bite) tippets - but I'm still using the Hufnagle for heavy shocks... (60 and 80lb fluoro joined to 20lb Hard Mason mono 20lb..). In the back country of the 'glades we can get away with heavier leaders than what's being used down in the Keys these days...

I took a job many years ago doing 100 tarpon leaders (in pairs - each pair joined the other by a double length of bite tippet -about 30" to allow room for tying a loop or other knot to the fly...) then each pair looped together to make a single chain wound around an empty spool... In use you pulled out a leader pair then cut the bite tippet in half to free up a single leader (very handy for night fishing since you didn't have to tie up any knots other than the connection to the fly - the leader itself was looped onto an existing loop on the butt section of the rest of the leader... That butt section on a 12wt is six feet of 60lb mono, double nail knotted to the fly line...

Back then the customer specified the bite tippet would be 110lb Maxima mono leader joined to 15lb hard Mason by a Hufnagle (after tying a bimini twist at each end of the tippet.... I was forced to learn how to do each knot - one hundred times over... (and needed to wear a glove to keep my hand intact..).

The Slim Beauty, by the way is the knot for building tapered leaders - far superior to the old blood knot (and much stronger if tied properly...).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes haven't been on here for a while. The Location X Knot involves a bimini but I have devised a way to make the bimini with small 1" loops. It saves from having to discard the bimini class tippet every time the bite becomes too small from changing flies.
 

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So you want your shock to be mono for the stretch it adds? I've always done fluro but that does make more sense. New to the tarpon leader stuff.
 

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Ok I misunderstood for a second. I do use fluro for my bite section but I have been using fluro to make my entire leader also. Is this "technically" wrong? I have been using full fluro leaders cause my tarpon fishing is beachside in the panhandle so our fish don't ride very high unless it's very calm seas. I use fluro to help my fly sink a little more. And water is crystal clear also. Using unweighted flies mostly, few with bead chain eyes.
 
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I have been using fluro to make my entire leader also. Is this "technically" wrong?
Yes, and I have taken the liberty of reporting you to AFFTA. Don't let it happen again.


Foreal though, mono usually has more "fly line" like properties, so most people use mono for the butt sections of their leader to get a better turnover and as an extension of their floating fly line. For sinking lines or getting your presentation down lower, flouro is totally good to go. You just may have problems if throwing a gurgler or other top water flies.
 

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Ok I misunderstood for a second. I do use fluro for my bite section but I have been using fluro to make my entire leader also. Is this "technically" wrong? I have been using full fluro leaders cause my tarpon fishing is beachside in the panhandle so our fish don't ride very high unless it's very calm seas. I use fluro to help my fly sink a little more. And water is crystal clear also. Using unweighted flies mostly, few with bead chain eyes.
You're doing it right for where we fish. I'll definitely help you test your system when the Mav shows up!
 

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You're doing it right for where we fish. I'll definitely help you test your system when the Mav shows up!
I know dude it's killing me.
 
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Yep, nothing wrong with full fluorocarbon. Especially if you want your fly down in the water column.
The mono helps flies stay on top and gives some stretch to the leader system that prevents breakage on big surges and jumps.
 

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Yep, nothing wrong with full fluorocarbon. Especially if you want your fly down in the water column.
The mono helps flies stay on top and gives some stretch to the leader system that prevents breakage on big surges and jumps.
Would it be stupid if I used mono as my class tippet to help with stretch or would that affect the way my leader lays out, sinks or floats? Wouldn't think it would but I've never tried it.
 

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If I was trying to get the fly down I would use an intermediate sink tip fly line, but still use the mono setup with fluorocarbon bite.
 

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If I was trying to get the fly down I would use an intermediate sink tip fly line, but still use the mono setup with fluorocarbon bite.
I’m not an expert but was told what you said above but for a different reason. The mono adds a little buoyancy between the sink tip and the fly so the fly doesn’t point downward which doesn’t look natural for a wounded baitfish.
 

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Yes haven't been on here for a while. The Location X Knot involves a bimini but I have devised a way to make the bimini with small 1" loops. It saves from having to discard the bimini class tippet every time the bite becomes too small from changing flies.
No thank you. The tag on the bite tippet will snag silts, moss and grass. What I use is the system I described in the thread pinned in the top of the Fly Fishing Forum under Tarpon Leaders.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
No thank you. The tag on the bite tippet will snag silts, moss and grass. What I use is the system I decribbed in the thread pinned in the top of the Fly Fishing Forum under tTarpon Leaders.
Not all places one fishes has floating grass and any knot in heavier mono/fluoro will arguably pick up some grass for that matter. When floating grass is present a short intermediate tip may be the best alternative solution to get just below it. Regardless how slim in profile the knots are, they are likely to disturb the moss/grass at the very least when the line is being retrieved through it and the knots come in contact with it which will ultimately spook weary tarpon just the same.
 
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