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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, another CF build thread! When will it end?!!?? I have joined the Conchfish Armada, the Morejohn Minions, the Homebuild Heritics..

I was not planning on posting a build thread because I felt I had no real value or knowledge to contribute BUT I quickly realized that I could help future builders out by sharing my dumb mistakes. First lesson learned: A router with a circular bitt can not cut a 90 deg corner. :)

Big thanks to guys like @Boatbrains @Sublime and even @DuckNut for advice and help already.

Huge thanks to guys like Seth, Travis, and Bryson for well documented build threads full of priceless information.

I bought prints from CM a few months ago and have been over thinking, under thinking, and everything in between since then. The hull will be the 17.5 Tunnel. Only thing different from the plans I received from CM is that I offset the spray rails outboard from the widest point and tapered fwd and aft in increments of 0.25" at each station. My employer is awesome enough to let me build this "employee funded research project" at our production facility in South Georgia and use the facilities such as the CNC router, paint booth, mold shop, and others.

The jig (strongback) was constructed about two weeks ago and I have been hitting it hard this past week with the fiancee being out of town. The stations are up, chines cut, and a few foam pieces cut. I am just afraid to actually fix anything to the stations yet. :eek:

Below are some pictures of the progress so far and my cad designs fabricated from the station drawings I received from CM and company.
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First of many questions: Best kind of tape to use on the stations and sheer flange?
 

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I used regular clear packing tape on my flange. I have found that you can put your razor point in big globs of dried gorilla glue and easily flick it off.

Congrats on the build. Your tunnel will draw much interest.
 

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Lowcountry Degen
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1,590 Posts
Looks good man! What foam did you choose, and what's the material for the chines? Any reason you cut the keel short?
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the tape suggestions guys. Do you still put mold release on the sheer flange prior to glassing?

@bryson to answer your questions: I broke the keel fwd of station 11 while being impatient with a hammer :D & the chine material is fiberglass. I made a 4x8 sheet using 3oz CSM, 2mm Corematt and another layer of 3oz CSM. I know its overkill but it was the easiest way to get to the 1/4" thick material called out in the prints. Also, the corematt is "supposed" to absorb vibration and sound to some extent.

Edit: I am using the Carbon Core 5 lb PE Foam. It is a lot softer than I thought it was going to be. Easy to dent but also easy to bend to shape
 

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Lowcountry Degen
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@jglidden I gotcha -- hey did you model the hull form or just the stations and deck?

I use SolidWorks extensively at work, so I modeled up the hull too. It's not perfect, but it helped me visualize the hull extension and transom (and more importantly, check my math) since the 17.5 plans weren't available when I started. It's also been pretty useful for buoyancy calcs and planning out material usage.

Render1.JPG Render2.JPG
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter #7
@bryson I have not modeled the hull but yours looks pretty fantastic! I mainly just wanted to get an idea for the deck and interior layout for things like the fuel tank, hatch layout, and bhd placement. Whatever you are missing from the plans, I am happy to email over to you.
Not sure I would even consider doing this without CAD. All the guys who build without it (which is most) are way smarter than me for sure!
 

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@jglidden I gotcha -- hey did you model the hull form or just the stations and deck?

I use SolidWorks extensively at work, so I modeled up the hull too. It's not perfect, but it helped me visualize the hull extension and transom (and more importantly, check my math) since the 17.5 plans weren't available when I started. It's also been pretty useful for buoyancy calcs and planning out material usage.

View attachment 85078 View attachment 85080
That's some good clean modelling....
 

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Brandon, FL
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9,266 Posts
Are you stripping or chunking?

Now...you have disclosed you have a CNC. You know what this means, right?

It means you are almost cheating.

One thing to consider is routing in drain channels from the hatch gutters to ensure the hatches remain dry. Cut all of them to the stern as it will always will be a bit lower than the bow and the water will drain even on the trailer.
 

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Forgotten Coaster
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Thomasville? that boat is going to be too nice to run around the rocks and snarls of the Big Bend. Better just leave it in the garage. ;)

Seriously, good luck with the build. Will be following the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@DuckNut if thats cheating... I am totally OK with that. I'll take whatever I can get for a little aid!

I am not sure I know what you mean by chunking, but if it means using large pieces of foam cut close to form and trimming/sanding into place then yes! For the larger, flatter portions such as areas close to the stern and entire spray rail. I plan on knocking these out first then figuring out the best way forward in terms of stripping vs chunking. Is there a disadvantage to chunking?

Just for reference I plan on using composite nails to fix the foam to the stations. The intent here was that it will make chunking actually work rather than relying on the glue to hold the form of the boat together. Also, I will have less holes to fill (hopefully). Before glassing I just plan on puttying any and all gaps/seams. Is this sound thinking?

Thanks for the gutter advice! The splashwell and bilge is one of the next items on the list to really plan out and understand.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the kind words @Zika. The boat is a long ways from finished and I am already worried about about taking her where I like to fish! The Econfina and Aucilla have not been kind to my current boat. Had to change the name from Stumpnocker to Rocknocker
 

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Brandon, FL
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@jglidden

That is exactly what I meant and there is zero disadvantage and it will speed things along by days. Toward the bow you will need to plank it to get the curves you want or you will have to kerf the foam.

Kerfing would be cool because you got just the tool to do it quickly and accurately.

Your doing great.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks man! I appreciate all the help! That carbon core PE foam is surprisingly limber
 
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