keep repair under false floor

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by redfish5, Apr 21, 2012.

  1. redfish5

    redfish5 I Love microskiff.com!

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    I recently purchased a 13' river hawk duck boat model (has a false floor and no center box). It has a crack about 4-6 in long along the keel on the underside towards the front of the boat. The crack is pretty deep so I want to cut the fiberglass out and repair. I have done this once before with another boat, so I know how to work with the fiberglass. I know you are suppose to patch the inside and out for the most strength. However, I don't know how to do this without cutting through the false floor and don't really want to do that. If I lay enough layers of cloth on the outside portion of repair will that hold? Also, is epoxy resin better to use than polyester? I plan on applying gator glide to the underside once all the repairs are made. Thanks in advance for the help.
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Large enough prepped contact area with epoxy resin and glass fabric
    ought to be as strong as the original polyester resin hull. Won't be pretty though.
     

  3. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    the repair done that way,may look ok - but,i would never trust it...

    if you're going to take the time to repair it,do it the best way you possibly can.

    me,i would cut out what i needed to,and make the repair,the propper "accepted" way - which would be to glass it both inside and outside - that way the repair is structually sound.

    epoxy provides a much stronger bond than polyester based resins - epoxy is also waterproof,unlike polyester based resins...
     
  4. redfish5

    redfish5 I Love microskiff.com!

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    Sounds like epoxy resin is the way to go. Should I use cloth or mat? I may suck it up and cut the false floor for the repair then refiberglass that. Might be an excuse to put hydroturf down on top of that. ;D
     
  5. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    When using epoxy, mat is not recommended.
    The bonding agent that holds the mat together is designed to dissolve in polyester resin.
    That means the fiberglass needed for epoxy, is a woven or stitched material.
     
  6. redfish5

    redfish5 I Love microskiff.com!

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    Thanks for the help, I'm sure you get tired of seeing similar questions, but you have been a big help with my past boat and this one. One last question I have is if I cut a small square in the false floor to reach the crack underneath, when I repair the false floor do I just place the square back in and then lay a couple layers of fiberglass over it? There is a gap between the false floor and the actual hull bottom to allow water to drain back.
     
  7. redfish5

    redfish5 I Love microskiff.com!

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    Well change of plans. I Just realized the crack is directly under the front seat. I was debating removing the front seat and mounting a cooler/seat there anyway. Now I may have an excuse. After removing the seat, I will inspect the false floor. As previously mentioned I assume after I remove the seat I should cut the square in the false floor, remove, then replace and refiberglass? Also, I know removing seats in these river hawks and gheenoes can compromise hull strength and flotation. Since the boat has a false floor, if I leave a couple inches of the seat on the sides down to the floor and have the false floor down the middle, will that be enough structural stability? Also, if I remove the seat/flotation and replace with a mounted cooler, will that act as enough replacement foam if the boat were to fill up with water? Thanks again for all the help, and sorry for the long thread.
     
  8. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Need to see pictures of what y'er dealin' with... ;)
     
  9. redfish5

    redfish5 I Love microskiff.com!

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    About those pictures.... I have uploaded them before, but now I can't figure out how. I can email them, but can't seem to upload them.
     
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