Allow me to apologize to all interested parties, before starting this rant.... ;D
C'mon guys, this ain't rocket science.
It's a boat and a trailer.
All trailers have cross frames.
Been that way as far back as I can remember.
and yes, I can remember further back than a lot of ya'll have been alive.
Maybe it's because I grew up in the era of galvanized break-frame trailers
and launching the trailer was a no-no, or maybe it's because
I've always bought used hulls and trailers and had to solve the problems
that come from dealing with that situation on a regular basis, it's an easy fix!
If the boat is hitting a cross frame with the forefoot or keel, it needs a roller.
Doesn't matter if it's the first frame, the second frame, the third frame or the tongue.
Fiberglass hull contacting metal trailer components makes for hull damage.
If centering the hull on the trailer is difficult, add a walkboard to the trailer
so you can get back there and line the bow up on the roller. Use that winch
instead of trying to crash the hull onto the trailer and hope you've got it centered.
Yeah, I know, it's a float-on/drive on trailer and that's how it's supposed to be done,
but guys, if it ain't working for ya', then get out of the boat, line it up with the rollers
and then winch that hull up and avoid damaging that fiberglass and gelcoat.
A float-on is for use at an improved ramp with a properly designed incline.
If the ramp is too steep or too flat, then ya'll are gonna have to adapt.
Stop trying to ram a hull onto a trailer, at ramps that weren't designed by a qualified engineer.
Add rollers and a walkboard and a power winch, if the manual winch is too much work.
This is not a difficult problem to deal with. If you launch at a ramp where you can't
sink the trailer, so you don't hit the cross frames, add rollers/winch/walkboard!
It's not the trailer, it's the ramp you're using.
There...I feel better now....rant over.... [smiley=happy.gif]
