Keel Guard..SUV

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by DavidIvey, Aug 5, 2012.

  1. Anyone put a keel guard or a keel sheild on an SUV yet?

    Even with the Float-On trailer the SUV still hates life. I've got to do something very soon.

    If they had notched out the beams that tie the two sides of the trailer togther this wouldn't be a problem. If I could only weld aluminum! ;D
  2. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL


    I had a similar problem with my trailers. On a low incline ramp I would get on with no problems. On steeper inclines I would hit the trailer with the hull.

    I solved this by putting the boat on the trailer and making sure I had a couple inches between the hull and the crossmembers. Then I bolted on rollers that were pushed up snug to the hull. The first time I used it I came in sideways and the boat fell between the roller and a board and the hull caught the metal bracket. I lowered the rollers so the bracket was not above the crossmember and then lowered the wood and problem solved.

  3. I dont have enough room for a roller on the forward beam. I could put one on the rear, but that would in a sense raise the beam even higher, yes it will roll at a certain point, but where my boat is hitting it would just run into it like it does the beam.

    I may give it a shot however. It could hurt right..

    I just dont under stand why they went through the trouble putting an axle that was pre-bent for a hull, but didnt even think about the beams??


  4. TheBrazilNut

    TheBrazilNut Guest

    Extra Thick


    You are beating a dead horse! We all have these problems!
  5. Then something needs to be done.

    Noodles? ;D
  6. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

    You have more room than I have on mine. Go buy a roller and bracket and set it in place. Mine is so low that the shaft in the roller is below the crossmember. The roller is maybe 1 1/2" max above the crossmember. If you do need more space, add a board on top of the ones that are on there. That would give you an extra 1 1/2" for the roller.
  7. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

    Buy a large cutting board, cut it into strips, sand the edges round, and screw it down on top of the beam as a scuff pad.
  8. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Allow me to apologize to all interested parties, before starting this rant....  ;D

    C'mon guys, this ain't rocket science.
    It's a boat and a trailer.
    All trailers have cross frames.
    Been that way as far back as I can remember.

    and yes, I can remember further back than a lot of ya'll have been alive.  ;)

    Maybe it's because I grew up in the era of galvanized break-frame trailers
    and launching the trailer was a no-no, or maybe it's because
    I've always bought used hulls and trailers and had to solve the problems
    that come from dealing with that situation on a regular basis, it's an easy fix!
    If the boat is hitting a cross frame with the forefoot or keel, it needs a roller.
    Doesn't matter if it's the first frame, the second frame, the third frame or the tongue.
    Fiberglass hull contacting metal trailer components makes for hull damage.
    If centering the hull on the trailer is difficult, add a walkboard to the trailer
    so you can get back there and line the bow up on the roller. Use that winch
    instead of trying to crash the hull onto the trailer and hope you've got it centered.
    Yeah, I know, it's a float-on/drive on trailer and that's how it's supposed to be done,
    but guys, if it ain't working for ya', then get out of the boat, line it up with the rollers
    and then winch that hull up and avoid damaging that fiberglass and gelcoat.
    A float-on is for use at an improved ramp with a properly designed incline.
    If the ramp is too steep or too flat, then ya'll are gonna have to adapt.
    Stop trying to ram a hull onto a trailer, at ramps that weren't designed by a qualified engineer.
    Add rollers and a walkboard and a power winch, if the manual winch is too much work.
    This is not a difficult problem to deal with. If you launch at a ramp where you can't
    sink the trailer, so you don't hit the cross frames, add rollers/winch/walkboard!
    It's not the trailer, it's the ramp you're using.

    There...I feel better now....rant over.... [smiley=happy.gif]
  9. makin moves

    makin moves Well-Known Member

    I just get out of the boat hook up the strap and crank it up on the trailer. No matter the ramp if you do it by hand it will go over the cross members with out damaging the boat. Ive got one of the first suv's made and no damage. I just dont drive it on the trailer. The roller will for sure help, but I would still hand crank it. Also put the wax on the bunks like Brett has mentioned in the past and it make life real easy when loading. Just be care full unloading ;) make sure the safety chain is on till the boat is in the water.

  10. No need to rant. I was just asking what others have done... Yes they have cross braces.. But why not notch them out?? The axle is already. ::)

    I know how to adapt trust me, I will. Try loading a RiverHawk with a Longtail mud motor that doesnt have reverse in a river... :eek: ;D I will study this until I turn blue and I WILL be able to load my boat with out any issues what so ever once I am done.

    I have access to UHMW at work and will be cutting and molding a piece to cover the brace and have it come down infront as well.

    Im came here to get ideas from others. I will toss a roller on it and give it a shot! I need to add guide poles as well. This SUV hull is 'special' so I'm going to have to make this trailer 'special'.
  11. topnative2

    topnative2 Well-Known Member


    scrap keel guard angle is to severe and will come off
  12. Well I'm gonna have to put one on anyway and just hope the rollers work. I'm not close enough to Mel to have him fix the bow to like new.

    Not much of a dip in the cross brace, but it's gotta be better than nothing... Now why didn't Float-On do this to begin with?


    I will more than likely use 18" rollers on the first two cross braces and one 12" on the forward one.

    Guide Posts..
  13. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Two things to add to your list....

    Stainless steel roller shafts and waterproof grease to lube them with.
    That way you never end up with a bound roller that won't rotate due to corrosion.
    Stainless and grease in salt or brackish areas prevents a lot of problems.
  14. smithst

    smithst I Love!

    I know this has turned into a trailer it should obviously the trailer is the problem however...for an almost indestructable keel guard check out

    Linex and this shop have developed and perfected marine application of the linex for keel guards and non skid deck coatings. Similar to the truck bed liner material this stuff is TOUGH, TOUGH, TOUGH. They can computer match the color of their product to your hull color and even inlay designs.

    Im soon ordering a new boat being built on the west coast and will be taking it to Linex of Sarasota as soon as I take delivery to have a color matched keel guard sprayed on.

    Good luck with your trailer issues.

  15. Already on my 'at home list'! haha! A little grease will go a long way in these little spots! Hopfully I can get some parts ordered pretty soon. Im kinda at a stand still in the money department.. :mad: ;D

    Too bad Sarasota is so far away..
  16. 200 dollars worth of stuff just to hopefully solve the problem. That price doesnt include the Keel Guard.. so had an estimated 150 buckaroos...

    Nothing has been ordered yet.

    Item Item Name UM Qty Price Amount Delete
    Boat Trailer Guide Ons 48" Pvc (Pair)

    EA $64.04 $49.95 $49.95
    Split Panel Bracket Galv (2-Pkg)

    EA $11.30 $8.81 $17.63
    Shaft,5/8"Dia,18"Kr [Pkg W/2-Pal Nuts]

    EA $12.15 $9.48 $18.95
    Keel Roller 18" V-Style 5/8"Id [Blk]

    EA $37.27 $29.07 $58.14
    Roller End Cap 3-1/2" With 5/8"Id [Blk]

    EA $3.48 $2.71 $10.86
    Split Keel Roller Asy 10"Keel Gold/Ec

    EA $49.99 $38.99 $38.99
    Total Weight: 43.60lbs. Total Qty: 12 Total: $194.52
  17. topnative2

    topnative2 Well-Known Member

    get some marine tex and tint if you need to and fix the "ding" it is easy to do and nobody will see it
  18. I'll be sure to do that! Do you have website you usually get it from? My boat is sea foam green so Im sure there will be no way to match it.

    Also I talked to Tim at Float On.. apparently the Roller Kit/Updated trailer for the SUV's does exist. I remember seeing a thread about it a while back, but for some reason my couple month old trailer didnt get this. :-?

    He's kit is a 8" wide roller, however Im having him price me a 18" one. Overkill? Nope, just more protection. :cool:
  19. A little update. Never heard back from Float On so I called them today and all I got was yeah we will get a price together and call you back. Same thing I heard two days before.

    The only thing different from their 8" kit is the 18" roller and the shaft is longer. The brackets and mounting hardware are the same. Hopefully they will call be back soon. I'm ready to get this fixed.
  20. Swamp

    Swamp I Love!

    So lemme get this straight, they did not put the right roller kit on it to start with or is this change something that was determined to work better after your particular trailer went out? If it was supposed to be on it to begin with why are they are charging you? Plus they are dragging their feet? Unless I'm missing something I'd be taking my money elsewhere.