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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to skiffs, but want a nice flatts boat, bought a carolina skiff, always wanted one. It has a strong 28 Johnson and seems to draft more than it should, and is hard to get up on to a plane. after much online resarch I decided I may have a water logged skiff. I weighed it at the scrap yard, 1160 pounds trailer and haul with front casting deck, took it home removed deck, seems like could be 80 to 100 pounds, and took skiff off the trailer. weighed trailer next, 400 pounds, a little math and I figured the boat is about 600 pounds w/o motor, seats just the haul. The books say 280.....so 300 pounds over weight. Fast forward to today and I cutt the top deck off, about a ft in all the way aroung the perimiter. There is water, but it dose not look like 300 pounds of water to me IDK, I am pretty stumped and now have a holly boat lol
Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It just does not seem like that much water though, not 300 to 400 pounds worth.
Is it possible that they have the weight wrong and these skiffs are a lot heavier?
Let me know what yal think? what should I do?
 

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Fly-By-Night
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The foam is saturated like a big sponge.
take out all that wet foam
That^ and That^

There's nothing else there to create weight. Just glass and it doesn't soak up water. At about 8-1/2 lbs per gal it doesn't take long to add up. There's no where else to hide weight in that hull.

Boat should jup right up with that ol 28 special
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If any body has done this before and could offer me any wisdom I am all ears lol,
I was gonna replace the floor after I pulled it out, put its real thin, and would not support anything without the foam underneath. So if I tear out all the foam and do not replace it I am looking at getting creative here lol. Also the foam really isnot all soaked, just at the very bottom in most of the cells
 

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Brandon, FL
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11,800 Posts
Take your circular saw and cut all the way around the perimeter, remove the sole and remove all of the foam. Clean up the hull and coat it with epoxy.

Then replace the foam and rebuild the floor. Slobber some paint on it and go fishing.

That foam is integral to the structure of the hull so you have to put something back in to support the hull. It is acting like a composite - glass/foam/glass.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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I know the temptation is to just leave the foam and hope that it "isn't that much," but I fear that is wishful thinking.

For a proper repair, cut the floor out (leaving a 3" lip), remove all foam, check the integrity of the stringer system and repair if needed, and build a new deck/sole.

The real question is do you want new floatation foam back in, and that is up for debate. I would use epoxy resins and pour the foam back in, cut off level, coat with neat epoxy, and seal with the new deck/sole. But others may say to leave the foam out and leave weep/drain holes that you can pull the plug on and drain...

Its going to be a more than weekend job to fix it properly...
 
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That^ and That^

There's nothing else there to create weight. Just glass and it doesn't soak up water. At about 8-1/2 lbs per gal it doesn't take long to add up. There's no where else to hide weight in that hull.

Boat should jup right up with that ol 28 special
Yep, with that flat bottom it’d be real easy to gut all that out and re- core the whole thing with 2” carbon core pe. It is 5lb density foam and will not absorb water. Set the hull on a flat structure so the bottom is all properly supported and after old foam is out and hull ground down, putty the hull and set the pre cut core in to putty. With weight. Drill relief holes in the core so the excess putty has somewhere to go. After cured, glass over and done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you for all the replies! So what is this Carbon Core pe. never herd of it, and it is water proof? so was the original foam right?.. I am not looking to do this a again in a few years lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If I do put new foam back in, which seems like the sensable thing to do for integrety purposes,
I would want to instal some sore of drain tile, and an exit hole/ plug so that I don't get standing water in the haul, any one ever done this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know the temptation is to just leave the foam and hope that it "isn't that much," but I fear that is wishful thinking.

For a proper repair, cut the floor out (leaving a 3" lip), remove all foam, check the integrity of the stringer system and repair if needed, and build a new deck/sole.

The real question is do you want new floatation foam back in, and that is up for debate. I would use epoxy resins and pour the foam back in, cut off level, coat with neat epoxy, and seal with the new deck/sole. But others may say to leave the foam out and leave weep/drain holes that you can pull the plug on and drain...

Its going to be a more than weekend job to fix it properly...
I thought about that lol, but I am not a half bass kinda guy and I would like to do it right and be done with it. I feel like this little rig should haul butt with that 28 on there and it gets on a plan, but not without tryin to cough and stall out first. Plus for the skinny water it seems like its draggin too low. Idealy it would be cool to seal it all up like a giant srff board lol good design
 
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Carbon core pe is a structural foam as is their pvc foam. It WILL NOT absorb water. If done properly, it will be the last time it ever needs done. The reason I reccomended carbon core is price. Their pvc foam is same basic foam as divinycel h80. I use Carbon core pretty much exclusively now and have for a few years.
 

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1999 Carolina Skiff 16
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I installed a couple of these on the back of my CS. I drilled the transom, and used an electricians bit and extension to go a couple of feet into the foam. The foam on the right was dry, the left side was barely damp. I left the holes open with the bow up in the air as high as I could get it, and got only a few drops of water from one side. I installed the drains with 3M 5200 sealant. No problems so far.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Carbon core pe is a structural foam as is their pvc foam. It WILL NOT absorb water. If done properly, it will be the last time it ever needs done. The reason I reccomended carbon core is price. Their pvc foam is same basic foam as divinycel h80. I use Carbon core pretty much exclusively now and have for a few years.
I called Carbon Cor in Va today and spoke with Tommy the owner I think. He told me that he did not think that the stuff he had would work for what I needed. When you do your floors do you cut the boards into bars that will fit between the orignal ribs? do you pull the ribs out?
 
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On that boat, I would cut it all out and grind back to the hull skin. I would then drill a bunch of holes in a sheet of the 2” core and bond to the hull skin. The hull must must must be properly supported! Then glass over the foam after filleting around the edges. If 2” isn’t high enough, use 1.5 oz csm for the glass over the first piece and put a second piece right on top of it and weigh it down with cinder blocks “15 or so” and after it all kicks, fillet and glass in. The double stack will get you about the same flotation as original but won’t absorb water like the polyurethane foam did.
 

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water intrusion is a common problem with CS’s. I dont know what the root cause of it is on most, but my old one didn’t have any sealant on quite a few screws that were inserted into the floor from the factory.

What @fishnpreacher recommends is what a lot of people do without problems. Had you not already cut the floor out, that would be the route I would go. I got rid of mine instead.

Fast forward a few years, and I knowingly bought a project. I took out well over 100 pounds of saturated foam. I’m not an expert by any means, just a cheapskate DIY guy. The guys on here can/will help you through your rebuild. YouTube is also your friend if you haven’t done any fiberglass work also. Here’s a link to my project...The pictures look very similar

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/waterlogged-capless-gladesmen-restoration.70430/
 
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