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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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-Bring a mechanic with you or take it to one.
- Inspect the trailer. Black paint makes me think it’s rusted.
-Look at the wiring and make sure it doesn’t look like it’s going to start a fire.
-Where’s the gas tank?
-Don’t impulse buy it because you want a boat. You could easily be in over $10k after fixing the above points.
 

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Take a friend that isn't just as excited as you to give you a 2nd set of eyes. I'm sure you are pretty excited about getting a new to you skiff but try to look at things and find a way to talk yourself out of it. Go over the boat with a fine tooth comb so to speak. Look inside the hull as much as you can, bring a flashlight. Ask your buddy to have a look as well. Generally speaking, a clean skiff is a well maintained skiff. Wet test it and run every system.
 

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I'd figure out a way to check out the transom - built in 2000 might have plywood, which by now would likely be soft. Look for cracks all around the perimeter of the transom and along the top. If there is caulk present in any of these areas or if you can grab the top of the transom next to the motor and move it in and out (even slightly) I'd be suspicious. Not terrible to fix if you're handy, but probably $1000 to have it done at a shop. (The first boat I bought had a bad transom)
 

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Guys, I am about to buy my first skiff. Could some of you tell me what to look for when going to test the skiff this Saturday? The boat is a 16' lagoon classic from A&L fiberglass in Florida. If anyone has any information or advice if its a good deal...etc... Please feel free to help this skiff virgin out!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/tex...51546308331815/?sale_post_id=1551546308331815
I think that’s the one in SA that’s been for sale for a long time. A&L is still around so I’d call them and get some background. I heard they build a decent quality boat.

I’d want to run the boat if at all possible not just on a garden hose. Run it at idle, part and full throttle and in reverse. Notice how it shifts in and out of gear. How does the engine sound at idle, is it easy to start? Battery condition, trolling motor, etc., make a list ($)of what it is going to need, because I bet it is going to need stuff done. What kind of service history, any records, receipts?

Look for spider web cracks at stress points. Get under the boat and look for damage or repairs. If it’s had glass work, hows it look? Look over the trailer, you may have to ultimately replace it if it’s rusty but you can use that as a bargaining chip. Does everything work?, lights, bilge pump, safety stuff? Soft spots in the glass can be a real expensive problem so check the sole, every square inch. You find a soft spot you gotta ask, why? If its soft there, it might be soft or delaminating elsewhere, maybe in a hard to reach area like a bilge. You buy a boat for $4500 and the find out have $1500+ worth of structural repairs after the fact - you now have a $6000 boat that’s worth $4500.

Before you go look at it, and I can’t stress this enough, find out if it has clean titles to everything in the sellers name, if it doesn’t, don’t even bother, this is Texas and TPWD has a system and if you don’t have clean paperwork you are screwed and there aren’t shortcuts. Go to the TPWD website and read carefully all that is required. Find and print out the forms and make a generic bill of sale for you both to sign.

Oh, don’t fall in love with it because you start to overlook the little things, and they start to add up. (oh she’s gonna give up meth, she told me). Look at the boat like you were going to buy it to resell it, could you actually do that with a straight face. Call you local marine dealer and get an idea of what parts cost, service work, etc. you’d be surprised at how much a tilt/trim switch can cost alone, not to mention the whole unit.

Good Luck, I hope it turns out the way you want it.
 

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-Don’t impulse buy it because you want a boat. You could easily be in over $10k after fixing the above points.
This right here! I wish I would've been more diligent and thoughtful when I bought my boat.
 

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BOAT = Bring On Another Thousand. Be careful buyer beware. The advice about TPWD very accurate. Reminder: the trailer will be registered with DPS thru DMV, so license plate tag yearly license (graft) can be paid on time and tag received.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I also just feel that a skiff with a working motor and a solid hull for 4,500 is tough to find anywhere. I am trying not to fall in love but its tough...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think that’s the one in SA that’s been for sale for a long time. A&L is still around so I’d call them and get some background. I heard they build a decent quality boat.

I’d want to run the boat if at all possible not just on a garden hose. Run it at idle, part and full throttle and in reverse. Notice how it shifts in and out of gear. How does the engine sound at idle, is it easy to start? Battery condition, trolling motor, etc., make a list ($)of what it is going to need, because I bet it is going to need stuff done. What kind of service history, any records, receipts?

Look for spider web cracks at stress points. Get under the boat and look for damage or repairs. If it’s had glass work, hows it look? Look over the trailer, you may have to ultimately replace it if it’s rusty but you can use that as a bargaining chip. Does everything work?, lights, bilge pump, safety stuff? Soft spots in the glass can be a real expensive problem so check the sole, every square inch. You find a soft spot you gotta ask, why? If its soft there, it might be soft or delaminating elsewhere, maybe in a hard to reach area like a bilge. You buy a boat for $4500 and the find out have $1500+ worth of structural repairs after the fact - you now have a $6000 boat that’s worth $4500.

Before you go look at it, and I can’t stress this enough, find out if it has clean titles to everything in the sellers name, if it doesn’t, don’t even bother, this is Texas and TPWD has a system and if you don’t have clean paperwork you are screwed and there aren’t shortcuts. Go to the TPWD website and read carefully all that is required. Find and print out the forms and make a generic bill of sale for you both to sign.

Oh, don’t fall in love with it because you start to overlook the little things, and they start to add up. (oh she’s gonna give up meth, she told me). Look at the boat like you were going to buy it to resell it, could you actually do that with a straight face. Call you local marine dealer and get an idea of what parts cost, service work, etc. you’d be surprised at how much a tilt/trim switch can cost alone, not to mention the whole unit.

Good Luck, I hope it turns out the way you want it.

Apparently the guy bought it from someone in San Antonio 2.5 years ago. It has only been for sale for about 1 week. I tracked down the builder and he said everything was composite and no wood. He said the original owner brought it in for maintenance every year and took great care of it.
 

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Apparently the guy bought it from someone in San Antonio 2.5 years ago. It has only been for sale for about 1 week. I tracked down the builder and he said everything was composite and no wood. He said the original owner brought it in for maintenance every year and took great care of it.
That’s great to hear, hopefully this works out for you!
 

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Funny... buddy just sent me that link 15 minutes ago. $4,500 seems pretty cheap for that rig if it's truly clean and in great shape. I bet it's a fixer upper for sure. Good luck!
 
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