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Cert. Yamaha technician
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can't really tell by those pictures...

but...

you're gonna have to grind out the damaged areas - and remove the antifouling paint,from anywhere near the area to be repaired.

the damage appears to have not "gone through" - but,without really seeing it,it's tough to call...

balsa coring,you're really gonna want to perform that repair with an epoxy,polyester based resins - the cheap stuff with the styrene smell, are not waterproof - epoxy is - epoxy also is absorbed by pours wood - if the balsa coring is damaged,and creates a void when the damaged area is ground out,you can make a thickened epoxy mix,using a good additive such as west system 403 adhesive - this will provide a good "gap filling" mix,cover the areas in a epoxy compatable matting - chop strand matting typically isn't compatable with epoxy.be sure to remove all the blush from the epoxy,when applying gel coat to match - amine blush is removed with soap and water only...
using a "seperation coat" of duratec surfacer is an excellent technique,this process serves 2 purposes - first,the duratec fills any and all pin holes that form,from the curing process,and 2nd,the duratec provides a good adhesion of the gel coat to the epoxy...this is the process is use,as just about 90% of the repairs i perform are using epoxy resins.

there's other ways to make that repair,but,the steps i described are what i would do...

take note: if you go through to the foam,you're left with no choice,but to also repair on the inside of that damage - a surface repair will provide no structual integrity...

again,not trying to make this out to be a giant project - it's just tough to tell the extent of the damage via a picture on the internet...
Very good advice!
Especially about the use of duratec to get the gelcoat to bond to epoxy.


Kreepa: i have heard that gelcoat will bond to west system epoxy only (if the surface is sanded and prepped properly) is this true?
 
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