[JonBrown]

Hi folks. I am wanting to remount my Tohatsu 20 on an Atlas Micro jack plate. However, the mounting hooks on the motor are over 4" deep, and the jack plate is exactly 4". So, the mounting hooks on the motor will hit the plate bolted to the transom, as well as the boat. There is thus no way to lower the motor down to the same level it was at when simply bolted on.

The options are to either cut the motor bracket, which I really don't want to do, space the whole assembly away from the boat and mount the jack plate lower - which may mean it is in the water a lot of the time, or mount my motor permanently about 3" higher than the transom - which means it won't be deep enough for usual use, and obviates the need for the jack plate in the first place.

I called TH Marine, and they acted like I was speaking Sanskrit. No help at all. They were nice enough, but had nothing to suggest.

Any thoughts?

If you want to see what I am talking about, TH Marine's own youtube video of the "micro jacker in action" shows it perfectly: the motor can't get lower than the mounting hooks hitting the transom.

 

[Smackdaddy53]

Why would you want to lower the motor as low as it would have been when it was just bolted to the transom? The idea behind having more setback is so you can raise the motor higher than it was before without losing grip on the water coming off the bottom of the hull.

 

[DuckNut]

I think I would remove the factory bolts and go to Ace Hardware and buy a couple 2 1/2" ones.

 

[Battfisher]

If it’s the clamping bolts you’re talking about, the circular head of the bolts should be threaded and screw right off.

 

[JonBrown]

Why would you want to lower the motor as low as it would have been when it was just bolted to the transom? The idea behind having more setback is so you can raise the motor higher than it was before without losing grip on the water coming off the bottom of the hull.

The cavitation plate is right at the surface now. I would like the freedom to maybe go down a little and up several inches. Unless I can get the motor to where it is now, the cavitation plate will always be 2 inches above the surface and I will be in permanent "shallow water drive mode" at all times. I guess what I am saying is that unless I can get the motor to clear the transom, I will have bought an $800 jack plate that can only range from "all the way up" to "prop out of the water."

It seems like this is something that must happen more often than not with this jack plate, and I am surprised that it is not mentioned anywhere.

 

[JonBrown]

If it’s the clamping bolts you’re talking about, the circular head of the bolts should be threaded and screw right off.

Good call; that is what I had hoped, but in measuring I think the clamps themselves will just hit the boat by about 1/8". The clamps are curved on their front face, and at their thickest are just too thick.

 

[commtrd]

Try a different jack plate? Or just leave your motor where it is and be happy? Sounds like the big concern is being able to have it low as possible, so just leave it alone?

 

[Smackdaddy53]

You’ll probably bog the motor going any lower anyway. The higher the better

 

[JonBrown]

I would like to be able to pick it up a few inches from where it is. But you are right, the practical answer may be to scrap it and do nothing. If I really need to go shallow, I could trim it up and just go slow. But then I don't get to have a cool hydraulic jack plate . . .

 

[Capnredfish]

You will need a different prop to run it all the way up. And that different prop won’t perform running way down. So set it up for using the jackplate or don’t.

 

[Tigweld]

I agree

You will need a different prop to run it all the way up. And that different prop won’t perform running way down. So set it up for using the jackplate or don’t.

 

[Ferrulewax]

If I understand what you are talking about: just use a piece of aluminum as a spacer. Here’s what came on my boat, Motor is a suzuki 25hp.

the aluminum has a bolt through it on the bottom, but is just pinched between the motor and jack plate on the top. Works fine, gives a little bit more setback (not needed, but it is what it is), and provides the 1/4" needed for the arms to clear the back of the transom

 

[ZaneD]

I’m not sure if you already have it or not, but TH Marine sells the “clamp on motor adapter” that is required to mount the smaller portable outboards to the micro jacker. It basically is a spacer and gives you something to clamp the engine bracket to.

https://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-Supply-Jacker-Adapter/dp/B0053HQAZO

Also to address your question - in most or all cases, once mounted to a jack plate the engine will sit generally 2-4” higher and set back a few inches compared to if it was bolted directly to the transom.

 

[Capnredfish]

Order some negative trim wedges as spacer. Will also improve holeshot by a huge amount.