Home Brew Wiring

Discussion in 'Power it up with Electronics' started by iMacattack, Dec 1, 2008.

  1. iMacattack

    iMacattack busy, too busy

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    Do you crimp, shrink tube, solder... How do you wire?
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Yes, to all.
    Depends on location of connection needed.
    Terminal block - crimp connects
    Bilge or wet locations - silver no acid solder, heat shrink, silicon sealant
     

  3. iMacattack

    iMacattack busy, too busy

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    sorry should have added duct tape and prayers too... ;)
     
  4. brew1891

    brew1891 Well-Known Member

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    I like the crimp connectors with heat shrink adhesive built in...solid connection that is sealed.

    For my trolling motor to battery connections I used the closed end crimp lugs and covered them with heat shrink tubing with adhesive.
     
  5. Un-shore

    Un-shore Well-Known Member

    Twist-and-Pray :D

    Actually, Prefer solder with heat shrink for permanent fixtures, crimp mostly though. I like the heat shrink crimps too. dialectric grease on all connections.
     
  6. pescador72

    pescador72 Well-Known Member

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    Heat shrink crimp everything.
     
  7. Kemo

    Kemo The world is flat....and shallow.

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    Solder everything.  I grew up with this mandate from my Dad.  Use Rosin core, NOT acid core.

    Got this off the web:

    Rosin core solder contains rosin, which is usually a purified pine tree sap, as a fluxing agent. The flux can be inactive, in which case it simply covers the area being soldered during the process (to keep oxides from forming), active or mildly active , in which case it will remove light-to-medium oxides that were present before the soldering process began, or highly active, which will remove almost any oxide or stain on the part and allow a good solder joint to be made.

    Kemo   :cool:
     
  8. Gramps

    Gramps Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time

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    Crimp & Glue Lined Heat Shrink. Solder connections are not ideal in boats. You create a solid section connected to a flexible section. Over time this can create stress & break at the solder connection.

    Just my $.02.
     
  9. tailchaser

    tailchaser Well-Known Member

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    Solder, and heat shrink only.... I solder everything, even up to the speaker wires..  I've had my share of nav lights flickering, and b.s. not working.. And, i'm cheap as hell... It takes a little longer to solder, but much cheaper, and you always have a solid connection..
     
  10. Unclebob

    Unclebob Well-Known Member

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    Normally I would say solder and heat-shrink everything, and silicone. However, I've been on an SKA Fishing team for the past 3 years, and since I was the one with a degree in electronics engineering, I was tasked with keeping everything working. We've went through dozens of pumps in single year..

    I've had to rig up some stuff during a tounament to keep things running, and discovered something kinda cool, you may want to try if you're in a pinch. I ran out of crimps one day and only had heat-shrink and 5200. I twisted the wires together, slathered them in 5200, and ran the shrink over it. Those connections have faired better than the crimped/shrinked ones. They are most assuredly watertight, since the heat shrink pushes the 5200 out and creates a pretty good cocoon.

    It's not a very strong connection, but one that will not fail due to corrosion if underwater or in a bilge.