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I set it at the lowest setting but still have to slow it down and control the speed by grasping the chuck between my thumb and index finger otherwise everything goes flying. I'm trying to come up with a simple system to have the other end counter spin.
 

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craft fur brushes
This is another "new to me" material I've not yet tried.
What wire do you use. (I'm assuming wire :) )

If the dremel is not to over powering you might be able to make a couple pulleys to reduce the speed and put a load on the motor. Wonder how a sewing machine motor would work...
 

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You know what sucks is those look alot “ fuller” than the storebought ones. Ive noticed that the ep brand has thinned out since i first started buying them. So more wraps for me and more money for Enrique .....
 

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EP material and SF Blend are wayyyyyyy over priced. They're both laughing all the way to the bank ! LOL
 

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This is another "new to me" material I've not yet tried.
What wire do you use. (I'm assuming wire :) )

If the dremel is not to over powering you might be able to make a couple pulleys to reduce the speed and put a load on the motor. Wonder how a sewing machine motor would work...
I use .009" stainless steel wire i get from craft a store that sells beads and costume jewelry supplies. The dremel is way too fast but I have full control and can slow it down to a crawl or stop stop it by holding onto the chuck.
Personally I think the best device would be something manual with a very smooth bearing that you can spin by hand and give you full control.
 

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You might try putting a dimmer switch in front of the dremel.
JC
 
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You might try putting a dimmer switch in front of the dremel.
JC
That would help but I think manual counter spinning on either end would be my ultimate choice providing the spinning device has enough mass to function properly and can be spun fast and smooth with little effort.
 

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If you up the dia of the "hook" to 1/4" dia there are cheep bearings you can use like a 3206, then you could attach a conventional reel handle any size you liked.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
86461B6B-6327-417B-BF53-C825AB6D066D.jpeg
mro, the best wire I’ve found so far is the DBW Medium which I but from Caddis, online. I’m sure other folks have it too. It’s strong enough to handle twisting up EP fiber and craft fir duos and and keeps the core twist down to a minimum.
 

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Looks like I'll have a new mini project soon.

So after you lay the material out, then put on the top wire, then remove the board that supported the material and crank er up...

Here's a pick of a rod wrapper I made 35 years ago. (still have it)
rodwraper.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That’s it! Very nice work on the rod wrapper! The cool this is you can make brushes in whatever color and length you want.
 

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That’s it! Very nice work on the rod wrapper! The cool this is you can make brushes in whatever color and length you want.
What's really cool is that you and sidelock have shown that it can be done.

Thanks guys... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
mro, from your rod wrapper, it appears you have a good bit of woodwork knowledge and tools but if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.
 

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One comes to mind, does the distance between the two hooks matter?

I've been making things since I was a kid.
One of the things I do for fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ideally you want a brush that’s 12”-15” long. Too short, the brush gets used quickly but if you make it really long you may risk of dropping material out when you drop the floor. I would recommend 22”-24” hook to hook. You want about 2” bare wire to whatever your spin concept is and 6-7” bare wire to your stretch spring.
 
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