Gamefisher Trihull Rebuild

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by jj101002, Sep 7, 2012.

  1. jj101002

    jj101002 I Love microskiff.com!

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    I have a busted transom on my 14' trihull. This weekend i'll begin cutting out the entire transom and going shopping for new plywood. I already have some outdoor 3/4 and i was thinking of getting some 1/2 inch to sandwich with it to keep the weight down instead of 2 pieces of 3/4. My question is if this will be sufficient? Also, can i use 5200 to seal the the two to together then i will glass with biaxial and poly over everything? Am i heading in the right direction?
     
  2. tightloops1900

    tightloops1900 I Love microskiff.com!

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    That would be a lot of 5200!
     

  3. Swamp

    Swamp I Love microskiff.com!

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    Since no one else piped up:

    Min of marine grade ply for starters and replace with the same thickness.  Do not just "cut out" transom, leave the outside glass intact (!!!!). Remove the transom from the inside (probably in chunks).  Sand and clean the remaining glass skin. Seal the surfaces of the ply to be glued with epoxy and then use thickened epoxy (wood flour additive) to glue the pieces together.  Use weight to make sure they stay put.  If at anytime you have a 24 hour time period between coats of epoxy you must sand and wipe with solvent first, like if you seal one day and them glue the next.  12 hours is safer 2-3 hour is even better, this is called working "wet on wet".  Coat the glued up transom with epoxy on the stern side then use more epoxy glue to glue to hull.  Clamping can get creative.  Some people use through bolts that are tape wrapped (so the epoxy does not glue them in place).  Then those holes are filled with thickened epoxy.  Prep inside surface of transom (clean and epoxy coat). Use biax fiberglass tape to tab the transom in and then cover all of the transom inside.  You may need to use a mat backed glass to build the thickness you had before.  Use tape to cover the top of the transom (arguable before or after the main glass is applied).  Now replace the stringers parts that you either had cut away to remove the transom or replace them completely (along with the floor) because you found out they are rotten as well in the process of all of this.  Apply fairing compound and sand, sand, sand, reapply fairing compound, sand, sand....   Over-drill the drain hole and fill with thickened epoxy.  Drill correct sized drain hole and install new drain.  Always over-drill/fill/re-drill and hole you put into wood.  Prime, sand, go back to fairing compound because you just figured out you did not make it fair enough. Rinse, lather, repeat... Now paint with a top coat.  Enjoy a transom that will probably last you children's lifetime.  If you really want it bullet proof use foamcore instead of ply.  Foam, in theory, doesn't wear out or rot Don't use polyester with wood, it can be used with foam though. Polyester is permeable(more rotten wood) and won't stick to wood correctly.  I don't feel comfortable suggesting a proper layup schedule to you, so I'll leave that to others or your own research.  There is obviously a bit more in the details but that is a quick run down.  YMMV

    Scared yet?  Don't be.  This is doable, just do your research first and be aware it is very labor intensive.  Not cheap either providing you don't want a half assed job that the next owner will have to redo.  Decide if this hull is worth it to you and then have fun.  Have pride in knowing you did the work and did it right.  The other option is to use duct tape and bailing wire and hope the repair holds long enough to get you back to the dock before you sink.

    Read though Brett's, Firecat's, Nate's  builds(just to name a few) to get an idea of working with wood and epoxy. Bateau.com amongst others is also a good source.

    Have fun.

    Swamp
        
     
  4. jj101002

    jj101002 I Love microskiff.com!

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    Thanks for the detailed reply Swamp Skiff. I have been reading up on the all the steps you mentioned and that pretty much sums up everything i've been reading. My problem is the transom was done before by some idiot who used pressed wood (particle board) in the transom. The outer shell is poorly glassed and that is where my water is seeping in where it has peeled off. I think my only option is to cut it all off and start new. I have seen it done on this forum by a guy from Rhode Island (Skiff2012) titled 14 foot Gamefisher Restoration. He used the composite stuff for a transom but i'm gonna heed the advice for the marine plywood and epoxy. First things first is the transom, but in the near future i will start on a complete build much like Project Greenie and install stringers and floor because there are no stringers in this boat and i hate stepping across the middle bench and i know my foam is waterlogged as well. Well this weekend i will begin gathering supplies and us composites seems like a very good source.
     
  5. Swamp

    Swamp I Love microskiff.com!

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    Yikes!  Sounds like you already have the right idea over all.  I'd still advise against cutting off the outer skin, especially where it wraps around to the sides and bottom.  Did the previous repair that is leaking happen on the outside?  If it did, grind the repair off an do it again correctly this time and then replace the transom like you normally would.  If the skin is really compromised think about sanding the paint and or gel coat off, opening up the cracks and then adding a layer of biax glass.  Then when you remove the transom, you can fill in the areas you opened up from the back side before replacing the transom.  Again, get with someone that really knows what they are doing from a strength and design point of view.  Having a transom peal off while out and about tends to ruin your day.

    Edit for syntax... :-[
     
  6. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

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    Swamp is right. Do not cut the transom completely off. Leave several inches of the transom around the outside edge.
     
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