flooring in the bilge

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by Chrysaora, Sep 19, 2011.

  1. Chrysaora

    Chrysaora I Love microskiff.com!

    I have a Scott Hudson Bay freighter canoe. It's about 21 feet long and 53 inches abeam. While it is not exactly a micro-skiff that is how we use it. These boats are built in glass with three aluminum pipe keelsons embedded in the glass that are then crossed by a series of aluminum pipe ribs or frames and then of course all glassed over. The problem with this construction is that water can sit in between the ribs(over a 1/2 inch deep) which means having to sponge out the boat after every use. Even cranking up the trailer only forces so much water back to the stern where it can drain. I have decided it is time to do something about this and so I'm considering, so far, two methods. One is to epoxy down half inch corecell panels between the ribs and then fill and fair and glass the whole bilge. Another option is to use Nidacore panels also half inch then fill, fair, and glass. Then I plan on using Durabak to coat the bilge up about six inches on the sides. Do either of these plans sound feasible? This boat often hauls several adults, kids, and dogs all of whom can be tough on materials. Are corecell or Nidacore capable of handling that kind of traffic and abuse?
  2. firecat1981

    firecat1981 BBA Counselor

    I understand your frustration, but that's alot of work to go through. I'd just suck the water out with a cheap shopvac and cover it up to keep the rain out when not in use.

    If you do insist on moving foward, since you are doing the whole floor anyway, why not raise it up a few inches and make the boat self bailing?

  3. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

    The products you mention are good products but marine ply would be more durable. Also I would add some side stiffeners and loose the cross braces to open it up.

    I remodeled one like this before and I filled in the keels with foam in a can, cut flush, glassed over then added a floor. I also made dams every 2 foot out of thickend resin before foaming. I did this incase the keel ever got broken so I would not have to repair an entire keel, only a portion. Worked great and was much easier to repair many times.

    Sweet boat.