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Have had this trailer since factory new for about 5 months w/ my salt marsh 1444. Dry launch every time. recently the running lights, tail light, and blinker on the right side only stopped working. All lights work on the vehicle side. I got a trailer connector tester off amazon (with no instructions), and as far as i can tell, all wiring on the vehicle side is working. as you can see in pic, all the wires split off into the right side fixtures and the left side fixtures at the plug itself. Made me think maybe its the ground on the right side affecting both juice wires that side. I've called Float-On two different times but havent gotten much advice other than probe the wires starting from the plug and moving back until you lose juice. I feel like theres got to be some better advice out there to help me narrow this down.
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If you’re not electrically inclined...

have a pro sort it the first time and (a trailer shop or someone that will come to you...) - with the proviso that you get to watch and learn, something that many of us did with our first boat.

Trailer lights are always a hassle so the sooner you learn to troubleshoot problems the better. I remember that years ago many marine hardware stores carried a paperback “how to” for 12 volt electrical systems. If you find a copy it might be a good purchase since every trailer- and the boat that sits on it are all 12 volt systems...

Hope this helps... aren’t boats fun?
 

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Here is a wire diagram to help you out. Usually is a ground as others have said but that usually effects all lights. Another thing to check is the fuses on your tow vehicle. I had the same issue before and it was always the passenger side. I tore might lights apart multiple times and could not resolve it. Finally checked my fuse panel for my truck and there is a fuse that was for the trailer lights on that side and it was blown. I have changed that fuse 3 times over the last 8 years and only that fuse. Not sure what does it, but I would check that before cutting a single wire on the trailer, considering for what you show, the brown and green would both have to compromised on the passenger side.
 

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What pops fuses, particularly on just one side of a trailer... is a momentary short in one of the wires on that side of the trailer. Somewhere (usually where you can’t see it) there’s a break in one wire’s insulation, allowing that wire to short out that circuit, -blowing the fuse. For me, that sort of trouble always happened when towing in the rain
or after letting the trailer just a bit too deep at the ramp...
 

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You've got a bad ground or a break in a wire somewhere.

I rewired my old Mako's trailer from scratch twice and that experience is part of the reason I now have a skiff I can dry launch...
 

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If you’re blowing fuses you’re probably getting one of your wires chaffed and rubbing the trailer and shorting the system. I don’t know whole lot about trailers but I’ve learned a lot lights. I had one that was checked up inside the guide post and I thought it was fine but I didn’t see it. I kept blowing my rear light fuses. Not fun when driving to Winter Garden from Fort De Soto at night. I was also having a lot of ground issues and decided to ground my trailers light directly to the harness instead of through the trailer. I ran a ground wire to the lights.
 

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With my Float On trailer, I noticed that a washer bolted down pinched the left side wire harness (3 wires) and grounded and shorted out my trailer lights. Check and see if all wires are free and not pinched.
 

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Should one of my customers had a trailer light problem the first year other than a bad bulb I would have had one of my tec's (or myself if in the area) swing by and fix it.

Caught myself writing a book on testing trailer lights :)

Do yourself a favor and buy an analog multi-meter.
Go to youtube and learn how to test for "continuity" and DC voltage.

Once you've done this you will be able to narrow down the light problem like a pro.

When checking the plugs you should also push/pull wiggle each wire connected to the plugs as they can loose their connection creating a problem that can come and go.

PS: if you have a wire crimper make yourself a set of 16 GA wires with alligator clips at each end. (At least one red and one black, about 24 inches long)

Sometimes you just won't have enough hands to check things by yourself.
 

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I’ve rewired numerous trailers from incandescent to LED and have found three separate grounds necessary...1) white from plug to trailer tongue, 2) left side rear and 3) right side rear...LEDS are strange if that’s what you have.
 

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Check your connections at the plug. Sometimes the connection gets loose or oxidized and will not connect well, this can cause only one of the functions to stop. Occasionally, some manufacturers have an individual ground at the light itself this will also cause just one lights to go down. If one of your waterproof lights is broken, it will short out in a wet environment. I have had to sink my trailers to launch for years and they require constant upkeep to function properly. It does however beat a monetary penalty. Best of luck.
 

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Best advice I can give after rewiring many:
1) Bypass the frame ground and run the ground directly to each light
2) use 16/3 or larger extension cord wire to reduce chafing
3)use heat shrink liberally

 

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Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but make sure, if you do any re-wiring that you only use tinned copper wiring - no cheap copper “hanger” wire (what most trailer wiring is made from...). The difference in life span and durability will be noticeable - particularly when using saltwater ramps...
 
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