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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive always had a bare minimum boat with clamp on running lights when dock light fishing, portable small battery for trolling motor, etc. looking for a more permanent, while still minimalistic approach to my new skiff. From what I’ve researched, it seems like I’ll run a positive from the boat to a fuse block, which I’ll run all my positives to, and a growing buss where all the grounds go.

I’m planning on picking up a newer Yamaha f25. I’m Just fine with pull start so I’m not worried about hooking the motor to the battery, unless it’s advised to do so. Not even sure how to go about using the motor to charge the battery to be honest.

I only need to run trim tabs, running lights, Lowrance Elite 5, and 55# 12v Minn Kota. The trolling motor will be minimally used in areas with very little current. Very few times will all of those be running at the same time. Can I get by with one deep cycle battery? I have an outlet in the boat house that I can use to charge the battery after the day is over.
 

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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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1,820 Posts
I would suggest running a battery switch so that you can disconnect when needed, and I'd use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Blocks/dp/B01BXTXV1Q instead of using a separate bus bar for the ground. They may make one with fewer fuses, but I'm not sure. Here is an off-brand one with only 6 fuses: https://www.amazon.com/6-Way-Fuse-B...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1BX39S2Q8VJKJNFE4FV3

Not sure about the quality on the second link though. I have the one in the first link and am very pleased so far. Make sure you use tinned wire, and adhesive-lined heat shrink and connectors. Spray any exposed connections with some corrosion blocker when you're done. I used dielectric grease as well. The extra cost of that stuff is pretty minimal on simplistic wiring jobs, and will add years to the life of the system.
 

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I wouldn’t run a trolling motor off my “house battery”. I would use a dedicated battery for just the trolling motor along with a two bank charger, so I can charge both batteries once I get home. Plug in and forget it.

Nav lights, tabs and a Lowrance can easily by run by a small odyssey bat. I run a pc925 that starts my yami F60 and runs all my stuff. My trolling motor is on two dedicated odyssey pc1200s up in the bow.

Agree with the blue seas blade fuse box as well as a battery switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. What about this small lithium battery to run tabs, lights, and Lowrance, with a group 27 for trolling motor?

Would I run both positives from batteries to the battery switch, then battery switch to fuse block. Then fuse block to switch panel? Then wire everything to fuse block/ground?

I’ve seen those nice switch panels from New Wire Marine with circuit breakers. Would that replace the fuse block?
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Considering I only need to run a small gps, tabs, and lights, and I run all three directly to the battery with in line fuses? Can I add a simple toggle in the nav light wires for on/off?

I’ll be going with a battery tender trolling motor plug inside the front hatch and breaker before battery.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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I
Ive always had a bare minimum boat with clamp on running lights when dock light fishing, portable small battery for trolling motor, etc. looking for a more permanent, while still minimalistic approach to my new skiff. From what I’ve researched, it seems like I’ll run a positive from the boat to a fuse block, which I’ll run all my positives to, and a growing buss where all the grounds go.

I’m planning on picking up a newer Yamaha f25. I’m Just fine with pull start so I’m not worried about hooking the motor to the battery, unless it’s advised to do so. Not even sure how to go about using the motor to charge the battery to be honest.

I only need to run trim tabs, running lights, Lowrance Elite 5, and 55# 12v Minn Kota. The trolling motor will be minimally used in areas with very little current. Very few times will all of those be running at the same time. Can I get by with one deep cycle battery? I have an outlet in the boat house that I can use to charge the battery after the day is over.
The new Yamaha F25 has a 16 amp charging system connection, so use it to keep the battery charged.
 

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1652 G3, & 1756 Lowe tinnys
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Just remember that a Trolling Motor is normally run off of a Deep Cycle battery. That is because one often runs the battery way down when using the TM. Deep Cycle batteries are designed to take a large draw-down.

The battery that starts your motor is normally built completely differently, in that it is designed for a heavy amp-pull in a short time... i.e. starting your motor.

Some manufacturers make an "all-around" dual-purpose battery that supposedly will do both. If you only have ONE battery, then look into that type.

if you use your Starting Battery for a trolling motor, WalMart won't honor its guarantee since you are mis-using the battery (not for the purpose intended). Just FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright so here’s the plan.. trying to simplify everything.

Odyssey 925 wired to ST Blade Fuse/Bus box.
From there I plan on putting Nav and Bilge to two blue seas toggles in the rear bulkhead, positive from nav and bilge to the switches, then pos off the switches to the fuse block.
Positive from tabs and gps straight to fuse block. GPS already has an in-line fuse, should I remove it?
All negatives run to bus bar.

Am I missing anything? What gauge wire is recommended for gps, bilge, and nav lights? What about from battery to fuse block?
 

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Carpe Diem
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Keep your trolling motor battery on a separate system from your house battery.
Wire your motor to your house battery.
Use a battery switch to totally disconnect your house battery from everything.
Use properly color coded silvered marine wire for all connections
Wire the battery + to fuse/breaker block with appropriate switches
Wire the battery - to a buss bar
Wire each accessory from the switch to the accessory then to the - buss bar

Be neat and organized. The color coding will help immensely later when you troubleshoot or modify things. The ABYC recommends wire conductors of at least 16-AWG (gauge) for lights and other similar equipment. That's minimum, and heavier gauge isn't much more expensive. 12 or 14 gauge might be appropriate for pumps and heavy current draw items.
 

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FWIW my skiff (a Skull Island 16 with a Honda 30) has an Odyssey 685 for the house battery -- it powers the electric start outboard w/ tilt & trim, Atlas Micro jackplate, Lenco tabs, navigation lights, courtesy lights ( red LEDs under the gunwales and in the rear hatch), bilge pump, sonar / chartplotter, and occasionally charges cellphones and a Stanley rechargeable spotlight. The TM (55 lb. iPilot) runs on a dedicated Odyssey 1200 wired to an onboard charger. I've only had the boat since the end of May, but thus far the batteries have been more than adequate. The boat came with Blue Sea battery switches (single circuit on/off) on both batteries. Just know, the thin plastic shaft on the TM battery switch twisted off, leaving me without a TM on a 5-day long-distance trip. I emailed Blue Sea through their support site almost two weeks ago, and have yet to receive a response. I replaced the switch with a Perko; you may want to consider that if you install a battery switch.
 

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Have you considered that a pull start only motor might not have an alternator to charge a house battery? Generally an alternator and starter are one in the same.
 
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