Favorite Bonefish Hooks?
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Daiichi X510 Xpoint Salmon and Steelhead hooks. These hooks are carbon not stainless so they need to be rinsed thoroughly but you will never drop a fish with them and if you don't crunch the barb, you better have a hook removing device with you.
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Mustad Neko hook with the TitanX wire.
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how do those compare w e.g. Gama B10S Stinger? I love how sticky the stingers are but they are a bit flimsy and rust.
As far as bones, I think any normal shanked hook works pretty well. I've caught a lot on old Mustad 34007 as well as the Gama Sl15 (I think that's the bone hook) and the Tiemco 811s.
In general, bonefish mouths are soft so everything sets pretty well. Would just get a hook w good proportions / weight for your flies.
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The B10S Stingers rust up in no time and are size 1 size over. I do love how sticky they are. So I've ended up using them as a freshwater bass hook. The Mustad 34007 was the hook to use in the 90's, but we've come a long way since. I've had them straighten out and the tips rolling. Sure, I use to bring a file to touch up the point and still have one just in case. But it's a pain.
I also don't like a heavy wire hook for spooky bones. I've had more refusals than eats and I've found by going to a thinner wire hook, I seem to get more eats and I can also control how much weight I have on the total fly weight better, than under compensating for a heavier wire hook that still seems to flop over on it's side, while the fly is at rest on the bottom.
So for bones, I tend to use the Dai Riki 930 in a #4 for all around bones and can get away with the hook being a size 4 over a size #6, since it's stealthier than a lot of hooks IMO and experience. Tho I may bring some on a #6 for dinks if they are jittery on the sand. For the bigger bones and other all around species, I'll use a #2 in that hook. They are sticky sharp like a B10S. Thinner wire yet strong and very rust resistance. They also hold their point well. Plus they are cheap for SS hooks. I get them on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-DAI-RIK...831511&hash=item43e80265d7:g:NVsAAOxyUrZS8xfr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-DAI-RIK...m43e87faaff:g:NVsAAOxyUrZS8xfr&frcectupt=true
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I think it is very close but not quite the same bend and although it feels a little flimsy is it not. They are crazy sticky as they are the ultra-point, chemically sharpened hook and light wire. I use it in a size 4 for all redfish and caught bonefish up to 7lbs on it so far. I like that it is forged and a matte type finish, if that matters to the fish or not. Also, we have been using it for juvi poon up to about 10-12lb and they have been flawless as well.
I had a couple 811S break on me 2 years ago and gave away what I had left for free. Wont ever unse another. Always used the 340- mustad growing up but too many better, sharper hooks out now.
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Ive caught them on #8-#4
I've used 34007 in the past but there lots of small steel hooks around
I've used 34007 in the past but there lots of small steel hooks around
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Gamakatsu SL12s #2
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cool...i will give those a try. been using a lot of #4 B10S for reds lately but they are basically good for one trip only.
I use the mustad signature c-70 sd as it comes in just about every size I want. I use it for most inshore patterns. Sometimes I will use gami sl-45.
I kinda agree with stripstruck about their softer mouths, but sticky hooks sure don’t hurt the ratio.
I use to tie on some b-10’s years ago and agree they are sticky but they bend way to easy. I have heard good things about the Titan hooks as well.
I kinda agree with stripstruck about their softer mouths, but sticky hooks sure don’t hurt the ratio.
I use to tie on some b-10’s years ago and agree they are sticky but they bend way to easy. I have heard good things about the Titan hooks as well.
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My primary hook is Diiachi 2546. I do have 34007, which I have to sharpen (use a Japanese saw feather file), but have not needed to sharpen a diiachi 452 or 2546Daiichi X452 (expensive but SHARP from the box as no other; I got them cheap luckily)
Still nothing wrong with old Mustad 34007!!! They were fine 20 years ago and still are. Cheap and good.
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Cool...just ordered some C70 and Neko hooks. Will spin up some redfish flies and see how it goes.
Love the SL12 but sucks it only comes in a #2 and it's a bit overkill tbh for reds. Been tying some smaller flies on the SL12 Short in #4 and #6 which is ok for crabs and such but I think not ideal for redfish or bonefish flies.
edit: I did straighten an SL12S on a monster bone in the Seychelles last year...was impressed with that fish!! Fishing 20lb straight for triggers and hooked a big bone. Tried to stop it in front of a rock and fully opened up
Love the SL12 but sucks it only comes in a #2 and it's a bit overkill tbh for reds. Been tying some smaller flies on the SL12 Short in #4 and #6 which is ok for crabs and such but I think not ideal for redfish or bonefish flies.
edit: I did straighten an SL12S on a monster bone in the Seychelles last year...was impressed with that fish!! Fishing 20lb straight for triggers and hooked a big bone. Tried to stop it in front of a rock and fully opened up
You should be happy with the c 70's then as its the same hook profile as the gammi sl-12 but a touch longer shank.
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Have no idea how many thousands of bonefish bugs I tied up for shops in more than 30 years as a commercial tyer using only the Mustad 34007 hooks, as small as #8 on up to about a size #2...- and they'll still do everything you need a hook to do.... Yes, they'll need a bit of sharpening -and for my own use they always will have the barb flattened out...
I've experimented a bit from time to time with other makers (and the super premium hooks that come from the orient....) but with every "special advantage" will also come a few drawbacks... I've actually had a few super hooks break at the strike - right at the barb (or right behind it....) and to pay a lot of extra money on a hook that will rust.... Just not my choice.
By the way - every one of the bugs I tie up for baby tarpon (up to around 10lbs - maybe a bit larger...) also use that same old Mustad 34007 hook.... and you can be certain the tarpon are a lot harder on a hook than any bonefish... To top it all off - I'm still buying those Mustads - by the 1000 per size....
I've experimented a bit from time to time with other makers (and the super premium hooks that come from the orient....) but with every "special advantage" will also come a few drawbacks... I've actually had a few super hooks break at the strike - right at the barb (or right behind it....) and to pay a lot of extra money on a hook that will rust.... Just not my choice.
By the way - every one of the bugs I tie up for baby tarpon (up to around 10lbs - maybe a bit larger...) also use that same old Mustad 34007 hook.... and you can be certain the tarpon are a lot harder on a hook than any bonefish... To top it all off - I'm still buying those Mustads - by the 1000 per size....
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Yes, I like them, but I have not converted to black hooks as my standard.
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Cool story about that trip to the Seychelles and the big bone that straighten out your SL12s.
I wouldn't use the SL12S any more, unless I happen to have some lying around for inshore random fish. I just straighten out a few too many of them for my liking, tho I like the shape of them. Speaking of the shape of them, I do occasionally use the Mustad C68SNP-DT (same look as the SL12S) and also the Mustad C70SD (slightly a little longer and a little more stout) and they seem to be ok for inshore stuff, tho I haven't tried them on bones yet.
Also, I wouldn't buy another Mustad 34007. I've straighten dozens of them before I got it through my thick skull that I'm done with them. But that being said, I actually do like the 3407BN (black nickel and they are actually new, a few yrs ago) Same style, but stronger since it has a higher carbon content to them. I use them for certain flies. The 3407 tinned finish chalks out too quickly for my taste, but I do recommend them for newbie starting out who wants to tie on easy to get cheap hooks.
I do like the Dia Riki's for normal bone fishing and inshore stuff, but I think if I were chasing giant dbl digit bones, it would be back to about a size #1 Owner 5170 or 5180 just because it's thin yet strong, tho the dbl digit bones tends to laughs at me and run the other way!
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The smallest AKI 5170 I could ever find was a 1/0.Cool story about that trip to the Seychelles and the big bone that straighten out your SL12s.
I wouldn't use the SL12S any more, unless I happen to have some lying around for inshore random fish. I just straighten out a few too many of them for my liking, tho I like the shape of them. Speaking of the shape of them, I do occasionally use (and still have a pak of them) the Mustad C70SD and they seem to be ok for inshore stuff, tho I haven't tried them on bones yet.
Also, I wouldn't buy another Mustad 34007. I've straighten dozens of them before I got it through my thick skull that I'm done with them. But that being said, I actually do like the 3407BN (black nickel and they are actually new, a few yrs ago) Same style, but stronger since it has a higher carbon content to them. I use them for certain flies. The 3407 tinned finish chalks out too quickly for my taste, but I do recommend them for newbie starting out who wants to tie on easy to get cheap hooks.
I do like the Dia Riki's for normal bone fishing and inshore stuff, but I think if I were chasing giant dbl digit bones, it would be back to about a size #1 Owner 5170 or 5180 just because it's thin yet strong, tho the dbl digit bones tends to laughs at me and run the other way!
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