[oysterbreath]

How does the basic galvanized EZ loader compare to the a basic continental trailer? Entry level pricing seems to be the same, around $950. I'm curious. Anyone got experience with both?

 

[Brett]

Look at ground clearance, fender to tire clearance, type of fasteners used (metal and diameter)
make sure it has gold polyurethane rollers and stainless spindles for the rollers, Check bunk
length, width, thickness and the durability of the bunk padding. Verify width fits hull between the fenders
so the hull can be set as low as possible so you don't have to sink the trailer to launch the boat.
Other than that, they're both metal assembled by minimum wage laborers. Make sure trailer
is rated for the maximum load you might carry.

Personal preference is springs over torsion axle.

I've seen trailers where the wrong size bolts were used during assembly
and had to be taken back to deal with the foul up.

 

[Recidivists]

Well said, Brett. Does any maker offer stainless spindles on their center rollers as standard?

 

[oysterbreath]

Personal preference is springs over torsion axle.

Explain ol' wise one?

Good point about SS spindles....
I will keep that in mind.

 

[Brett]

Stainless spindles have to be asked for.
Don't know of any manufacturers that offer 'em standard.
You can get away with galvanized spindles from the axles forward
if you only get the tires wet. Only the rear spindle needs to be stainless.
If you launch the trailer, you need stainless on all rollers.

I can replace a set of springs for less than 30 bucks,
try replacing a torsion axle and see how much it hurts your wallet.

 

[lemaymiami]

Well said, Brett (particularly the part about springs...). The next item to look at is frame construction on a galvanized trailer (is it welded or a bolt together bunch of parts?). I particularly prefer EZ Loader since it's a bolt together frame where you can replace any part if there's a problem. Recently my rear cross member developed a crack that meant big trouble if not replaced. I picked up the phone and called the distributor up in Port St. Lucie -they had the part and related hardware in stock so I drove up the next day picked it up and after a few hours of solo work (I didn't want to move the rig with that bad cross member so I did the work myself with the hull still on the trailer...) I was back up and running.

Note, I don't anything about Continental trailers. I'm a high end operator though, towing 20,000 miles a year.... I've been very happy with the EZ Loaders I've had so I've stuck with them. Being able to replace a structural part without welding means that I'm not having to rely on any shop to keep things working properly....

 

[Brett]

Since we're on the subject of trailer components, I'm going to offer a few more opinions.
Winch strap, not twisted cable. No sharp ends or corrosion to worry about. No crosswrapping
to cause jamming or cutting. Stainless wheel hubs, cost isn't much more than a standard,
look better and minimal corrosion problems. Galvanized steel rims with slots so a chain
can be run though and locked around the trailer frame. Guides to center the trailer when loading.
Walk board for safety and ease of launching and loading. Always carry an assembled/lubed
replacement hub, ready to install if you lose a bearing. Takes just minutes to replace a hub on
the road, tapping out a race can be a major pain at 3 in the morning coming back from Flamingo.
Full sized spare, same as the wheels/rims already on the trailer. Canning wax on the bunks
to reduce friction between the hull and the bunk padding. Star wrench for wheel nut removal.
Factory supplied vehicle lug wrenches are just annoying. 2x8 for jacking up the axle when
on a soft shoulder. No fun watching the jack sink and trailer stay on the ground.

 

[topnative2]

http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4827-8390-new.aspx


http://www.bosunsupplies.com/stainless-steel-trailer-parts/