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True, but... it goes back to “ya get what ya pay for” in many cases, the builder simply cannot afford to put a $30k skiff together and sell it at $10k. In some cases, the builder relies on a manufacturer saying their product will seal the area and they find out years later it didn’t. I guess what I am saying is this... if ya don’t want to spend $$$ on a skiff, don’t expect a $30k skiff. But... if you buy a $10k skiff and then follow through with proper bedding and sealing techniques, replace certain screws and rivets with stainless through bolts, replace low cost bildge/ livewell fittings with high quality & much more expensive products, then add up all your time and now estimate what that $10k boat should cost. Remember to add comp insurance, electric, shop rent/mortgage, etc... to every hr you spend re working the boat.

Now for those builders that are charging for those premium qualities and not providing... well shame on them!
 

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Thanks for the input :)

I know the freeing ! my customers want "Cheap & fast" wish I could really did not have to cut corners to make the job "affordable"
 
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I never cut corners myself. A repair is what it is. But most big mamufacturers have bean counters and share holders to answer to and they must meet production deadlines. When we do these repairs we do it to last forever. When boats are built... well not so much in many cases today unfortunately. Going back to my previous post, if you want that quality...
A: buy it to begin with
B: buy a cheaper boat and make the necessary changes/ adjustments to make it this quality. You will still have a great quality boat at a much lower price but will have to put in those hrs.

Now, I plan to offer my skiff at a fair price but have a few tricks up my sleeve to keep the quality up also because I absolutely hate warranty repairs and the only way to avoid them is to get it right before it leaves the shop in the first place!
 

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Excellent info!
Recently exposed several hacks on my deck and transom...I removed all fittings and screws...several screws were merely tipped with 4200/5200 with no hole prep resulting in a leakers.

Question-For countersink hole prep what is the best epoxy to use if the foam core is "damp"?

West System 105 does not like moisture during the cure so bonding maybe an issue. West System G-Flex with a filler maybe a better choice given G-Flex can cure with moisture. After hole prep both 4200 and 5200 should not encounter moisture but will cure regardless of moisture.

Does this sound right or BS?
 

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That method is good

But

When it comes to baltek coring , it’s not the best move

Overbore, fill with thickened epoxy and drill thru the epoxy
 
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