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I’m planning on covering the bottom of the hull of my Gheenoe with an epoxy & graphite mix. A lot of folks on the various Gheenoe sites and forums that I read like to use Fasco’s Steelflex Superslick 2000. I’m intrigued by the Superslick, and at the same time, a bit leery of it. Superslick contains graphite, but it also contains Teflon, which can be some dangerous stuff. My understanding is that if you burn Teflon, the vapors are lethal ….. I’m wondering if the same type of danger might exist if/whenever you grind the stuff.

Does anyone here have first-hand experience with epoxy & graphite vs. Superslick 2000? Fasco also makes regular Steelfex, which has no Teflon; is this stuff any different from a DIY epoxy & graphite mix?
 

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Mostly Harmless
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I haven’t used SteelFlex, but it sounds like airboat bottom paint. These conversations have come up before; search “Frogspit”. I find most guys swear by whatever they have used. I like graphite powder/epoxy cause I’ve used it. Others like aluminum powder/epoxy. Others like the airboat bottom paints that are ready to use and use either graphite or aluminum and possibly Teflon.

When folks argue over stuff life this, it generally means there is no significant difference. I seem to recall that even Jacques at Bateau.com conceded that aluminum powder and graphite powder were pretty much interchangeable. I think it really comes down to whether you want your hull bottom to be black or grey.

Teflon is inert until you burn it, so it you don’t plan on lighting your boat on fire, you’ll be okay. Wear an N95 mask when sanding it, but that is a general precaution.

Nate
 

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Brandon, FL
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Thanks Whitedog

I used frogspit with great results on my duck boats. Great product and easy application. Steel flex is also a trusted product by many people.

Used graphite when need a slippery surface. I have since moved away and back to frogspit.

I use aluminum powder when I need abrasion resistance. You must be careful with this as the powder is flammable and requires hazmat shipping unless can be sourced locally.

Gougeon brothers practically invented the world of epoxy and created West System. There is an incredible amount of resource on this topic in their epoxyworks magazine.

If you are not driving through weeds and mud, you don't need anything other than paint/gelcoat.
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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GatorGlide is the best, everything else sucks! Haha
Seriously though, I have only applied and used it and the other hulls I looked at with other slick coatings seemed very very similar. No matter what anyone says sand and shell will scrape it all off.
 

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Brandon, FL
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GatorGlide is the best, everything else sucks! Haha
Seriously though, I have only applied and used it and the other hulls I looked at with other slick coatings seemed very very similar. No matter what anyone says sand and shell will scrape it all off.
No matter what you put on your hull it will be no slicker on sand than without it.

If you use the aluminum powder and crash into oysters you will be amazed how well you fare. It really is far superior to graphite for this use. It is inferior in other characteristics.
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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No matter what you put on your hull it will be no slicker on sand than without it.

If you use the aluminum powder and crash into oysters you will be amazed how well you fare. It really is far superior to graphite for this use. It is inferior in other characteristics.
Yep, nothing is slick on sand!
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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My hull is paper thin and I am considering an external Slick coating for sharp object penetration protection.
WETLANDER seems to be a cool product but is a pain in the rear to apply and is not cheap.
See youtube video of wetlander vs brand x on their website.
https://bottomcoatings.com/
Very cool!
 

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Many years ago I used Steelflex on a riveted aluminum hull that we'd re-built more than once... I worked okay initially then began to pull away from the aluminum after a year or so... This particular hull was a 1976 Starcraft and it was abused badly... We fished it from Palm Beach all the way south to Key West and ran it hard -eventually causing metal fatigue fractures (particularly where the skin (relatively thin .080, if I remember correctly...) was flexing next to where the ribs were comparatively rigid...

If I had to do it over again I think the only thing that would have worked would have been simply a layer of glass over the entire bottom - but that would have added significant weight to a nice 16' hull with a bonefish interior...

If asked - I'd also make a point of noting that I was a lot younger then and up for any kind of adventure... The hull that followed the Starcraft was a complete re-build / restore of a baby SeaCraft - quite a step up...
 

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Looking at the videos on that site it seems all the sample/examples they are using is over small aluminum or stainless metal tabs.... and appears to be rather impact resistant to cracking and/or peeling.
Seems to be made more for aluminum... they have a Speedboat-49 that is more for slickening gel-coat surface but its a sacrificial bottom product.

There ain;t much you can roll or spray on that will stop punctures, but if you drag your boat across the grass maybe it will slide a little easier.
 

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I Love microskiff.com!
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Fastco is a great company. They might be a little dated. At least last time I bought from them they didn’t take cc cod only. Any way steel flex is a great product I have a airboat I’ve used it on and help many friends apply it also. It is fairly easy to diy.
Un rig
Flip over
Level bottom of Boat
Tape and paper the sides where you want it to stop
Prep bottom
Mix 3 parts in a bucket you can throw away
Part at center line and use a 3/8 or 1/3 paint roller (depending how think you want the finish product) to roll out the SteelFlex.
Let cure
Sand is about the only thing that wears it down. It is a self leveling liquid which help true up the bottom along with protecting it. The super slick is meant to be slick on grass.
Side note. Fastco offers lots of color. Might be able to match Boat/metal work/ cooler: or contrast. Good luck
 
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