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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2017 Mitzi 17 with a Yamaha 70 4 stroke. Love the rig so far. But I have a couple of questions for anyone with experience with this set up.
The motor is mounted in the lowest position. I was thinking of raising it a couple of holes on the engine mounting plate. Would this cause cavitation or other issues?
Also I want to mount a Power Pole but you can’t access the inside of the transom to either side of the poling platform to apply nuts and washers. Has anyone found a solution?
 

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1. Raise your motor one hole at a time then run your rig and see how it handles hole shots and cruising... then do a few gradual turns up on plane to see if it begins to blow out (revs go up as the prop isn't getting enough "bite"... If it will run okay doing the simple stuff - then try a few sharper turns to see how it behaves while you're up on plane - if everything is running fine - then you can try going up another notch, etc. If it starts to blow out in sharper turns (my old Maverick will do this...) then you either lower the motor back one hole or learn to trim the motor in (you do have trim and tilt don't you?) when you need to make sharper turns at speed (something I learned to do years ago since I've always wanted my motors running as high as possible...).

By the way all that's needed to adjust most motors for height once installed is to just loosen the two bolts that go where the motor bracket is slotted - then remove the two that go into holes. With the motor straight up and down you can either use a bottle jack under the cavitation plate to raise or lower your motor or use one or two short sections of 4x4 under the motor's skeg then simply use your jack stand to raise the bow end of your trailer until the motor on the 4x4's begins to rise to where you want it....

Hope this helps... aren't boats fun?

Forgot to mention "blind installations" where you can't access the inside area and need through bolted security (and there is a space where the toggles can spring out into position after you put them in place and before you tighten them up...)... One option (check with the folks at PowerPole to verify that it's okay...) is to use toggle bolts... The ones you want are called Togglers and come in stainless steel (don't ever use the cheap versions that are sold at Home Depot for drywall installations...). They're the same fasteners you use when securing a deck chair when screws simply won't hold properly - but you can't get under the floor for a through-bolted installation. If you do go with Togglers buy an extra pair and use one of them on a couple pieces of scrap wood (or glass) to learn how to do the install properly (the Togglers will come with instructions but you still will want a bit of practice using them properly before you do it for real....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. Raise your motor one hole at a time then run your rig and see how it handles hole shots and cruising... then do a few gradual turns up on plane to see if it begins to blow out (revs go up as the prop isn't getting enough "bite"... If it will run okay doing the simple stuff - then try a few sharper turns to see how it behaves while you're up on plane - if everything is running fine - then you can try going up another notch, etc. If it starts to blow out in sharper turns (my old Maverick will do this...) then you either lower the motor back one hole or learn to trim the motor in (you do have trim and tilt don't you?) when you need to make sharper turns at speed (something I learned to do years ago since I've always wanted my motors running as high as possible...).

By the way all that's needed to adjust most motors for height once installed is to just loosen the two bolts that go where the motor bracket is slotted - then remove the two that go into holes. With the motor straight up and down you can either use a bottle jack under the cavitation plate to raise or lower your motor or use one or two short sections of 4x4 under the motor's skeg then simply use your jack stand to raise the bow end of your trailer until the motor on the 4x4's begins to rise to where you want it....

Hope this helps... aren't boats fun?

Forgot to mention "blind installations" where you can't access the inside area and need through bolted security (and there is a space where the toggles can spring out into position after you put them in place and before you tighten them up...)... One option (check with the folks at PowerPole to verify that it's okay...) is to use toggle bolts... The ones you want are called Togglers and come in stainless steel (don't ever use the cheap versions that are sold at Home Depot for drywall installations...). They're the same fasteners you use when securing a deck chair when screws simply won't hold properly - but you can't get under the floor for a through-bolted installation. If you do go with Togglers buy an extra pair and use one of them on a couple pieces of scrap wood (or glass) to learn how to do the install properly (the Togglers will come with instructions but you still will want a bit of practice using them properly before you do it for real....
Thanks a lot. That’s good info. Do I need to re-seal around the bolts with caulk? If so, what’s the best stuff to use?
 

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Always caulk any bolts -but only after you’ve done your adjustments and your testing -then caulk when you have the motor where you want it.

Many use 5200 but I’d ask whoever works on it for what they prefer.
 
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