Just take it to the shop. Or at least let Bily Henderson or Let it Ride install them. Glad you found one.
ECC Glide Trim Tab Help
Hey guys,
I'm considering installing trim tabs myself on an ECC Glide. Curious if anyone has any feedback, good or bad, with the installation. It looks straightforward, but I tend to underestimate all projects... haha.
Any tips or suggestions for installing them? I see counter sinking the drill holes is important to avoid gel coat cracking. I assume the tab hardware doesn't go through the transom all the way? The only hole that looks to go entirely through is the power cable. Is that correct?
I've read on here to use 4200 vs. 5200.
I'm looking at the Lectrotab systems. Maybe T9X12.
Thanks in advance for any support.
I'm considering installing trim tabs myself on an ECC Glide. Curious if anyone has any feedback, good or bad, with the installation. It looks straightforward, but I tend to underestimate all projects... haha.
Any tips or suggestions for installing them? I see counter sinking the drill holes is important to avoid gel coat cracking. I assume the tab hardware doesn't go through the transom all the way? The only hole that looks to go entirely through is the power cable. Is that correct?
I've read on here to use 4200 vs. 5200.
I'm looking at the Lectrotab systems. Maybe T9X12.
Thanks in advance for any support.
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I really like the lectrotabs, they seem to work well and I like how smooth and slow they move.
Thanks, Josh! I talked to Adam yesterday at the shop; super helpful. I want to start doing some stuff myself, so I might take this project on.Just take it to the shop. Or at least let Bily Henderson or Let it Ride install them. Glad you found one.
Everything you mentioned is accurate. You can do it, this isn’t that hard you just need to measure three times drill once. Mount the tabs first then the actuators and make sure everything articulates correctly.Thanks, Josh! I talked to Adam yesterday at the shop; super helpful. I want to start doing some stuff myself, so I might take this project on.
Any suggestion on a chamfer-style drill bit? I see there are tons of styles. Not sure what is the best for gel coat.Everything you mentioned is accurate. You can do it, this isn’t that hard you just need to measure three times drill once. Mount the tabs first then the actuators and make sure everything articulates correctly.
I just use the countersink bits you get from the hardware store. They are nothing special. Use blue painter’s tape on the transom to make marks show up better and keep the trim tabs from sliding around while you hold them against the transom to mark the holes. Drill through it and use the countersink bit JUST BIG ENOUGH to be a little larger than the screws. Don’t go too deep or you will lose material the threads need to bite. The countersink bits I use are about 1/2” diameter. That has the best chamfer angle and only have to go about 1/3 of the depth. I don’t use 4200, I always use clear silicone for mounting screws and never have issues. Put a dab on each hole and run the screw in with an impact gun but make sure you use the correct size pilot bit (I think Lenco uses a 3/16” bit). Run the screws in each hole with silicone or 4200 as a lubricant so the screw does not bite too hard and twist the head off or strip out the head. Once you do this on each hole then you can remove the tape and put your sealant on each hole again and screw the outside two screws in loosely then tighten them up and then run the rest.Any suggestion on a chamfer-style drill bit? I see there are tons of styles. Not sure what is the best for gel coat.
Make sure you don’t leave the trim tab flush with the bottom of the hull. You want them 3/8” up from the bottom for a reason.
Great information. Much appreciated @Smackdaddy53 !I just use the countersink bits you get from the hardware store. They are nothing special. Use blue painter’s tape on the transom to make marks show up better and keep the trim tabs from sliding around while you hold them against the transom to mark the holes. Drill through it and use the countersink bit JUST BIG ENOUGH to be a little larger than the screws. Don’t go too deep or you will lose material the threads need to bite. The countersink bits I use are about 1/2” diameter. That has the best chamfer angle and only have to go about 1/3 of the depth. I don’t use 4200, I always use clear silicone for mounting screws and never have issues. Put a dab on each hole and run the screw in with an impact gun but make sure you use the correct size pilot bit (I think Lenco uses a 3/16” bit). Run the screws in each hole with silicone or 4200 as a lubricant so the screw does not bite too hard and twist the head off or strip out the head. Once you do this on each hole then you can remove the tape and put your sealant on each hole again and screw the outside two screws in loosely then tighten them up and then run the rest.
Make sure you don’t leave the trim tab flush with the bottom of the hull. You want them 3/8” up from the bottom for a reason.
Not a problem! Message me if you ever need help.Great information. Much appreciated @Smackdaddy53 !
Mac is a great resource. Glad you contacted Adam. I just want to make sure you get the right sizes in the right places.
Hit me up if you want some bow time on that thing. I'll push you around.
Hit me up if you want some bow time on that thing. I'll push you around.
Yeah he got me setup on size and mounting location. I’m in Colorado until later in the year. When I get back to Florida I’ll take you up on that for sure! Thanks @Renegade !Mac is a great resource. Glad you contacted Adam. I just want to make sure you get the right sizes in the right places.
Hit me up if you want some bow time on that thing. I'll push you around.
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