Anyone have any tricks to launching their skiffs on a steeper ramp. Example I want to take slack off the winch and unlatch the clip to the bow but if too steep as soon as I start loosening the winch line it will want to just wind down until it hits the water and loosens up the tension.
Sometimes I just let it and walk down the trailer and release it or I'll try and pull back on the boat to get the winch line loose to unclip the boat.
Simple and not that big of a deal just pitching it.
As black dog displays. But I just wrap the stand half wrap. I also walk up to bow with dock line in hand when I am putting it back on trailer. When I get up on the bow it wants to start sliding back down when I bend over to clip it on. Sometimes I don't need it, but have it ready. Don't over do the bunk lube. To much lube is like a loose p---y. Too much of a good thing.
You can leave it clipped and the tension from the clicker should slow it down and or hold on the the strap as it unwinds so it dosnt go to fast then clip the hook to the back of the trailer.
That's what I do.
Ok, I gotta ask a stupid question. Waxing the bunks please explain this
I have owned several boats and am waiting on my new Beavertail to be built and this is the first time I have ever heard of waxing the bunks, obviously I assume it helps with loading/unloading at the ramp but how/what/why would you use to perform this
Waxing the bunks helps with less friction between the boat and the carpet. My waxing every once in a while it helps the boat not stick to the bunks in launch is easier in the water while dry launching.
Leave the wax in your car while you fish. When you get back to the ramp the wax will be a little softer and the bunks will be warm and dry. That's the easiest time to apply.
Attach the bottom of the snap shackle to your safety chain with a regular shackle and the spring loaded part goes on your boat under your winch hook. (Yes it must be under as you will not be able to get the winch hook off once it all comes tight).
Once you back the trailer down, you release the winch, boat slides back a foot or so and the safety chain will come tight. Undo your winch hook and with a quick yank on the release clip off pops the shackle and your boat slides right off.
For my trailer at least I can back it down so that the bottom of the bucks just barely touch the water. The hubs are still dry and you can drive the boat keel in between the bunks and give it a little gas. Your buddy or whoever can then attach the winch and winch you up the rest of the way. Sometimes I throttle to roll over the keel roller gently and make it easier to latch the winch too.
Good find! I went with the one from West Marine as it has a weight capacity listed on the sizes of the hook.
Careful: Do not unhook the winch until you back down. If forget your boat will slide down a bit and jerk once the chain comes tight.
I cut the hook off of my chain and added a regular shackle then the snap shackle.
Neither should get wet. But if you're having to walk in water, get a piece of aluminum diamond plate or a carpeted 2*10 and have it run down just off the center of your trailer that way you can walk up or down your trailer to catch/launch without having to walk around in the mud or water. Just Google images of boat trlr walk plank, and you'll get some ideas.
Also the cheap silicone tent waterproofing spray from any box store will make trailer bunks slicker than greased owl shit. Also, it's in aerosol can super easy to apply.
I put poly bunks on my trailer and my buddy took the winch strap off while I wasn't looking and he dry launched me about 3' before the water at the ramp...when he hit the brakes I was in the water quick.
I can back my trailer down to where the bunks aren't in the water and the lower roller is just barely out of it. I walk down the trailer and my SUV is so light, I can pick up the bow and pull it half way up the trailer, then i hook the strap to the bow eye and crank it the rest of the way.
I sprayed my bunks with Silicon spray all over and launch at some pretty steep ramps and so far haven't had an issue with it going with out me nudging it a little. I do walk down the trailer frame and i'm counting down the days until i slip off and bust my shin, I definitely want to add some walkboards.
This is my trailer setup and I can dry launch (hubs out of water) and recover without the bunks in the water. I have replaced that 12 inch roller with an 18 inch roller since this picture was taken.
I just bought a used skiff. The trailer is a 2014 coastline but it is not set up to dry launch. Can I just add the rollers? Is it worth it now since the trailer has always been completely dunked?
Don't worry about the history too much. Hubs, bearings and axles are replaceable parts, so if they fail, you get new ones. If the frame were rusted through from dunking, don't waste the money (or use it at all), but otherwise you might find dry launching helpful. The less the hubs are exposed to water, the longer they will go between failures. Not getting your feet wet is only a side benefit. The first concern is the weight of your skiff. If it is pretty easy to push around on the trailer, it might be worth the work to reconfigure your trailer.
The ability to dry launch requires the bunks to be as close to the axle(s) as possible. Most trailers are already set up with the bunks as low as possible in relation to the keel rollers, but if your keel rollers are riding higher than necessary, you can figure out how to lower them by looking at them. They are pretty self explanatory. You can then lower the bunks to match.
Do you pull your trailer over deeply rutted roads to remote primitive launch sites? You might not want to lower the bunks in respect to the axle if that is the case. When the trailer is level, the axle will always be the lowest point on level ground no matter how the trailer is set up, but the stern of the boat can drag easily through/over dips and bumps in the road if the bunks are low.
Does the trailer have torsion axles (u-bolted or welded to frame) or conventional axles (u-bolted to a spring pack)? Torsion axles lower the trailer the most and you can switch to a torsion axle if you'd like on most trailers; it just takes money.
You could also mount a conventional axle on top of the spring pack instead of below, but this will always require you to add a bump stop to the frame above the axle and will never be as low as a torsion axle.
While it is tempting position the boat further behind the axle so it reaches the water before the axle, you have to position the boat on the trailer so that you have the correct tongue weight for the trailer hitch. If you slide it too far back, the tongue weight will be too light and the boat will bounce on the hitch excessively. My hitch is rated up to 100# of tongue weight if I remember properly and I have mine set at about 70#.
Nate
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