[SkimmerSkiffer]

Looking to Megiver my continental trailer into a more “dry launch-able” trailer. I get the concept, low trailer frame, rollers in the rear, siliconed bunks, and a good winch, and bunks low in rear and high in front, and torsion axles.

Right now my bunks are bottomed out as low as they can go (see attached pics) I’m looking for a super low profile bunk brackets so I can drop mine another 1.5-2” in rear and I’ll raise the front 3-6” and see how it goes after I liquid rollers my bunks. It’s got 4 bunks now , but I may have to switch to 2 bunks and space out the center 2 a bit more to make it more stable but at that point I’ll definitely need a roller. It’s got torsion axles now and seems to sit pretty low from ground to frame.

Anyone have any suggestions on low profile bunk brackets?

 

[MikeCockman]

Interested in what you find. I’m getting ready to redo a trailer myself and have searching to no avail. Finally settled on breaking out the torch/welder and making some myself.

 

[Gervais]

You could take the bolt out of the angle bracket and use the top of the u bolt sandwiching it between the height adjuster bracket and the u bolt. to secure it which would drop the rear 1 1/2” to 2 “. I don’t think you’d have to worry about it swiveling because the bunk would be so close to the frame it couldn’t tilt much. The pressure on the u bolt should hold it in place. On the forward ones, flip the height adjuster bracke and use the slot to secure the angle bracket with the half inch bolt. This should drop it and you would still have adjustability.

 

[Gervais]

Actually, put the angle bracket on the outside of the height adjuster bracket. This should act the same as the standard bolt that’s in it if you tighten the u bolt enough. You can replace the height adjuster bracket with a “frame plate” for the u bolt. Might take some digging to find a heavy duty one that’s galvanized but that would give more ground clearance.

 

[Gervais]

(8) 10" Aluminum L-Type Boat Trailer Bunk Bracket Kit with Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware For 3x3 Boat Trailer Crossmembers https://a.co/d/gSNFJhi

or something like this and drill holes where needed.

 

[Sublime]

Where are you at now? Give us a measurement from the floor to the bottom of the hull with the trailer tongue at the height it would be when on the truck. Are your torsion arms adjustable? I dropped mine some (had to adjust the fenders).

 

[swaddict]

slid the brackets attached to the bottom of the bunks, then remove all the hardware attached to the cross member. Drill new holes on the backside of the cross member and attach the bunk brackets at that point. That will move the rear of the bunks down a few inches. You also need zero degree torsion axles

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

Actually, put the angle bracket on the outside of the height adjuster bracket. This should act the same as the standard bolt that’s in it if you tighten the u bolt enough. You can replace the height adjuster bracket with a “frame plate” for the u bolt. Might take some digging to find a heavy duty one that’s galvanized but that would give more ground clearance.

I may try that my only worry was it moving around. I may order some extra brackets and give it a shot and if anything I can put it back how it was. I think I’ll have to cut these down 1/2” or so or the bracket will bottom out and hit the swivel tab

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

(8) 10" Aluminum L-Type Boat Trailer Bunk Bracket Kit with Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware For 3x3 Boat Trailer Crossmembers https://a.co/d/gSNFJhi

or something like this and drill holes where needed.

The bunks are turned the other way though

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

slid the brackets attached to the bottom of the bunks, then remove all the hardware attached to the cross member. Drill new holes on the backside of the cross member and attach the bunk brackets at that point. That will move the rear of the bunks down a few inches. You also need zero degree torsion axles

The torsion axles I have now are not adjustable. I’ll Google zero degree , not sure what that technically entails. As for the brackets I’m not 100% following you

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

Where are you at now? Give us a measurement from the floor to the bottom of the hull with the trailer tongue at the height it would be when on the truck. Are your torsion arms adjustable? I dropped mine some (had to adjust the fenders).

Not adjustable, and I can get you measurements when I’m back in town Thursday/Friday. It seemed very close to same height as a HB whipray I seen and was shooting the shit with the guy at the ramp. I watched him do a real dry launch, and was very impressed and decided to move quicker and more forward with my dry launch trailer changes. His tires didn’t even touch the water.

 

[Sublime]

I have these bunk supports on my trailer. From the top of the cross member to the top of the bunk is still 5 inches. On my setup that is about as low as I can go with supports because the bottom of the hull is about an inch off of the trailer I beams. From the floor to bottom of my hull is 17”. My friend’s Chittum is about 19”. An old Whipray trailer I had here was about 16”. What size tires do you have. You could shave a little of by going from 14” tires to 13” tires. Launching is one thing , recovering can be another.

 

[swaddict]

The torsion axles I have now are not adjustable. I’ll Google zero degree , not sure what that technically entails. As for the brackets I’m not 100% following you

Torsion axles come in different degrees, zero is the lowest. The L shaped bracket that attaches to the bottom of your bunk is currently mounted on top of the adjustable bracket that is mounted to crossmember. Remove all four crossmember bracket and position the L shaped bracket so it can be directly bolted to the square crossmember tubing. This will be the lowest you can go with your bunks, they will almost be sitting on the square crossmember tubing in the rear

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

Torsion axles come in different degrees, zero is the lowest. The L shaped bracket that attaches to the bottom of your bunk is currently mounted on top of the adjustable bracket that is mounted to crossmember. Remove all four crossmember bracket and position the L shaped bracket so it can be directly bolted to the square crossmember tubing. This will be the lowest you can go with your bunks, they will almost be sitting on the square crossmember tubing in the rear

Wow, I’m not sure why I never thought of that, so I would keep the U-boats get rid of the adjustable, sliding bracket and just pull the actual swivel bracket directly to the crossmember with the U volts without drilling any holes or anything like that. That is a great idea, I will do some measurements and have to give that a shot. That will work on the two outer ones but I’m not sure about the inner ones. I think those may have to still stay on the adjustable brackets but I won’t be able to towel until I drop everything down and see what happens. And as for the torsion axles, how do you tell what degree you have?

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

Wow, I’m not sure why I never thought of that, so I would keep the U-boats get rid of the adjustable, sliding bracket and just pull the actual swivel bracket directly to the crossmember with the U volts without drilling any holes or anything like that. That is a great idea, I will do some measurements and have to give that a shot. That will work on the two outer ones but I’m not sure about the inner ones. I think those may have to still stay on the adjustable brackets but I won’t be able to towel until I drop everything down and see what happens. And as for the torsion axles, how do you tell what degree you have?

Sorry if some of that is not legible lol I am using talk to text while I work.

 

[Sublime]

This is what I mean by adjustable. I can loosen that bolt and rotate the arm up or down. Zero degrees I believe would be the arm level. I tilted mine up at the back slightly, which in turn, dropped the trailer frame. The more you do this the harsher the ride is though.

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

This is what I mean by adjustable. I can loosen that bolt and rotate the arm up or down. Zero degrees I believe would be the arm level. I tilted mine up at the back slightly, which in turn, dropped the trailer frame. The more you do this the harsher the ride is though.
View attachment 220549

View attachment 220551

Yeah, mine definitely doesn’t look like that. I’ll take a picture of it later this week. If I remember correctly, mine looks like it’s welded on.

 

[Gervais]

The bunks are turned the other way though

you would repurposed the bracket to function as your existing brackets do. Not mount the bunk differently. If that makes sense

 

[SkimmerSkiffer]

you would repurposed the bracket to function as your existing brackets do. Not mount the bunk differently. If that makes sense

Ah I see flip it

 

[TarponMac]

Does anyone sell prefabbed rear side guides?