Dolphin wiring parts help

Discussion in 'Power it up with Electronics' started by Dudeitsmattx, May 3, 2014.

  1. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    I have a 2002 Dolphin Renegade and need to replace one of the toggle switches under the back hatch. Anyone know where to get parts? It's the switch for the bilge. Already made sure it was not the wiring or the pump everything works fine direct connecting. But the toggle won't work. Thanks.
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Have to see a pic in order to match it. Marine waterproof toggles are available on line.
    Just need to find yours and order it, or check at a fully stocked marine hardware shop.

    Which one is yours?

    Click here to view the selection
     

  3. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    Yeah here is a pic. I did not think toggle switches could go out.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Looks like a 2 pole toggle with a rubber boot to waterproof it.
    Remove the fiberglass panel to access the back wires.
    Unscrew the rubber boot. Unscrew the face nut on the toggle.
    Remove the wires, replace the bad switch, reverse the process.
     
  5. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    Ok sounds good. Thanks
     
  6. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Dolphin daisy chains one power feed across all the switches and then feeds power through the pop-out breaker to pump. If the green LED is coming on and no power is getting to the pump, then the breaker could be bad. One breaker is the only device I have had fail on my '02 Dolphin.

    I see a loose white wire in your pic. Could that be the manual run lead to your bilge pump?

    Personally I would take the rubber boot and nut off the switch and try to sneak it out the back without removing the black plastic or the fiberglass piece. Use a mirror to look behind there and pull the spade connectors off the switch first.

    http://www.bluesea.com/products/4150/WeatherDeck_Toggle_Switch_SPST_-_ON-OFF

    (Spray some Corrosion X on your trolling motor breaker terminals.)
     
  7. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    Well that wire is one I cut after the fact that it was not working. All my other toggle switches work just fine and the green light on the inside lights up when I turn them on. But the bilge and live-well ones don't work nor does the green light turn on.
     
  8. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    Assuming AUX 1 is your live well it sounds like the power feed that starts on the NAV switch and daisy chains to the ANCHOR switch is broken and/or disconnected between the ANCHOR switch and the AUX 1 switch.

    Dolphin used these multi stack connectors to do the daisy chaining.

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4014&familyName=Ancor+Multi+Stack+Disconnect+16-14


    To inspect and/or repair this you are going to need to get to the back of the panel by removing the four screws (or bolts) that holds the black lamicoid switch panel on the white fiberglass panel. You could just remove the whole fiberglass piece, but I think that will make it harder to work on the switch wiring.

    West Marine sells just about any part you find broken.

    ***You need to turn your battery switch off or disconnect the battery before doing this to prevent causing any further damage by shorting any loose wiring.
     
  9. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    I'm going to tackle this job today and this weekend. Want to get this taken care of so my boat is back to 100% perfect working order. I may need more help this weekend. I will be sure to take pics of I do for reference. Hopefully its an easy swap out
     
  10. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    Well I took that plate off like you said and nothing looks to be broken or disconnected. Took two pics. Any more info would be great to help.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Creek Runner

    Creek Runner Well-Known Member

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    Bilge pump diag.

    Step 1
    Take a volt meter, hook the black wire to the negative of the battery, take the red lead and check for hot on 1 side of the switch (while switch is in the off position) turn the switch on check for hot on both side of the switch now.

    *if you don't have power on either side of switch while switch is off check power to switch.

    *if you don't have power on both side while switch is on R&R switch. If you do go to step 2

    Step 2 while the switch is on, check for power at the pump, black lead to negative on battery, red to hot side of pump, with switch on

    *if you have no power on the hot side of the pump you have an open circuit somewhere between the switch and pump on the hot side, if you have power go to step 3

    Step 3 red wire on multi meter to hot side of battery, black lead on multi meter to negative on pump, with switch on

    * if you have no power then you have an open circuit on the negative side between your pump and ground source

    *if you have power, bad pump R&R pump.

    Repeat steps for livewell pump.

    Btw, this assumes you have already checked fuses and breakers. 

    Side =sides tired Been working on jet skis all day!
     
  12. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    I have only checked one "fuse" and it does not even go in to the toggle switch plate so that don't matter. I don't know where another fuses or breakers are that I can see. Besides one with a bunch of grounds running to it. Also why is there basically 2 boxes on the back of panel for each switch?
     
  13. MariettaMike

    MariettaMike Wish'n I was Fish'n!

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    The fuse you checked is probably for the automatic circuit for your bilge pump that should be wired directly to your main battery.

    The bunch of grounds you mentioned is just as important as the positive side of your electrical system. Check all that wiring too.

    Each device on your boat has a switch, an LED, and a circuit breaker.

    Like Dude said clamp the negative lead of your voltmeter to the battery and then use the positive to verify circuit continuity starting at the battery, to the panel, along, the panel, through the switches, through the breakers, and so on.

    by th way up the red wire for the last LED is not connected and will not work. The corrosion I'm seeing may be a sign that your switches or breakers are bad.

    Screw a bilge pump, bring a Plastic cup and go fishing.
     
  14. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    Haha I do have a cup on the boat. But that red wire I did cut that runs with the switch to the pump to see if it was the pump that was broken.

    So maybe I need to replace the the two circuit breakers. I don't have a volt meter. I'll have to go get one.
     
  15. Dudeitsmattx

    Dudeitsmattx 16' Dolphin Renagade Tiller Kevlar

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    Went to West Marine and got two new circuit breakers and switched them out. Problem fixed. But it looks like now maybe non of the green LEDs are turning on when I turn the toggle switch on
     
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