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B.S.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know where I can buy Divinycell in Louisiana? I only need one sheet.

Jamestown distributor sells it but shipping is outrageous.
 

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http://www.diabgroup.com/americas/u_purchase/u_purc_1.html


try the gulf coast contact link for dealers close to you
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
http://www.diabgroup.com/americas/u_purchase/u_purc_1.html


try the gulf coast contact link for dealers close to you
I called Diab this morning and they gave me a number but they only deal in bulk. I may be stuck with MG plywood.
 

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Other option is to find a custom builder near you and ask if they'll sell you a sheet.

I ran into the shipping cost problem on my build also.
Ended up using cheap lumber coated with extra 'glass.

:-[
 

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Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time
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Dave try some calling some of the boat builders in your area. If they have to buy in bulk, selling a single sheet won't hurt them.  If you're in Kenner, there should be plenty of outfits around.

Damn. Brett beat me to it.
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Found it!!!!!!!! Found a guy that sells everything right down the road. He doesn't have the 3/8" but has 1/2" for $97. I guess my deck is goin to be made out of that!

What oz cloth should I use on top and on bottom? I will be standing on it.
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Found it!!!!!!!! Found a guy that sells everything right down the road. He doesn't have the 3/8" but has 1/2" for $97. I guess my deck is goin to be made out of that!

What oz cloth should I use on top and on bottom? I will be standing on it.
Does anyone have any objections to using 1/2"?
 

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Brandon, FL
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11,429 Posts
one layer of 12oz biax (1208) on the underside and two on the top and cover with a veil if you are looking for a flat smooth surface.

I have used 0/90 biax glass with NO fold creases or flaws as the final surface and it becomes a real nce non skid surface. The 45/45 glass forms better but it has binding strings in it - the 0/90 does not have strings.
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks DuckNut!

Im extremely new to fiberglassing so you'll have to excuse the questions.

I ordered my materials from Raka when I redid my transom, so I called to ask a few questions today and Larry recommended Xynole.

http://raka.com/xynole.html

I plan on using the 1/2" for the deck and using it to make my frame for the deck to sit on. So I will have bracing underneath.

My other question is: can I just use my West systems 404 to make sure I dont have any 90* angles when I glass my frame to the hull and to the deck? Or is it ok to glass my coners and joints with no fillet?

DuckNut, the non skid surface sounds like something I would like to have.
 

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Brandon, FL
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I plan on using the 1/2" for the deck and using it to make my frame for the deck to sit on. So I will have bracing underneath.
You will need it. Try not to span too big of an area without support.

My other question is: can I just use my West systems 404 to make sure I dont have any 90* angles when I glass my frame to the hull and to the deck? Or is it ok to glass my coners and joints with no fillet?
Fillets are not a necessity but it does add strength and gives a much nicer appearance to the finished project.

the non skid surface sounds like something I would like to have
Then you do not want to use xynole. It is a fine cloth and will give you a very nice smooth surface. At this point I am assuming you are using epoxy. If so see if you can find 12oz 0/90 cloth instead of biax (the biax has mat attached to the underside and the mat is not really designed to be used with epoxy.

Does anyone have any objections to using 1/2"?
I used 5lb density in 1/2" to do mine (I did not use Divinycell - but a different brand of foam)

When I did mine I made a dry fit of all pieces including support pieces. Then Iapplied 1 layer of glass to each side of the support pieces and when dry I ground excess as necessary. Then I attached to the hull and built the deck and finished with fillets. You need to cover the pieces in glass because the foam is not strong without it. My underside pieces were only about an inch tall.
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the information! I plan on doin a dry fit for sure. I hope to start on it before Christmas. I just need to pic out a cloth and epoxy at this point. I'll look at the one you recommended.

When I do the mock up I will take pictures and post them so yall can see if I'm screwing up or not. Haha actually ok draw it up first and post a picture.

I'd like to use fillets in most areas that I would think could benefit from it but didn't know if there was a need to use it.

I'm really looking forward to this project.
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
DuckNut, I talked to Larry at Raka again and he recommended two layers of 10oz on top and bottom. However that depended on how much bracing I had planned on doing under the deck.

Also I do have some 1700(with out mat) not 1708(with mat) that I could use to save a little bit of money, but Im so new to this fiberglassing game that I dont know if two layers of 1700 on top and bottom would be too much weight.

Im assuming you used 12oz 0/90 on your deck? Also is that what you used on your deck frame?

Thanks for all the help!

EDIT:

This is the temporary deck I made a while back. The new one will be extended foward more and the hull will be bare so I will be building a frame from scratch.

 

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Have you considered using Aircell instead of divinycell? Here is a link to Poly U Mac; the manufacturer of Aircell.  http://www.polyumac.com/Aircell.html#


They make a scored material in 4'x4' sheets which cuts easier than divinycell and makes excellent core material for decks. It's available in 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1". We use it at Sea Ray for a variety of applications.

 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Never heard of it till now, but from searching for distributors it looks as if they only have 3 major ones.

I probably going with Divinycell because I can get it locally. The guy over at Raka has said more than once that he doesn't think the Divinycell would be worth for weight savings? I'm not sure how that can be, but I do know I will need more glass layers than I would with wood. Then again if I don't use would I won't have rot issues which is a huge plus.

Any input on wood vs Divinycell?
 

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Other than weight I can only think of the risk of delamination. Just be sure you get a good base coat of resin on the wood and roll out the bubbles when you lay the glass.
Wood does have some advantages such as, impact resistance and you can seat screws for mounting hardware. Again, when doing so pre-drill holes and fill with some sort of sealant prior to mounting.
 

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Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time
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Marine grade plywood, properly sealed will last forever. Look at the large sportfishers, many of them are still balsa cored. Or even Brett's boat, much of it is not marine plywood, coated in epoxy & fiberglass.

You will save weight with foam vs plywood, however the material cost is higher.  Wood has inherent strength with the epoxy/fibeglass to seal the wood where foam needs additional supports & glass to create strength.  If it were me, the deck would be plywood & epoxy. 
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Marine grade plywood, properly sealed will last forever. Look at the large sportfishers, many of them are still balsa cored. Or even Brett's boat, much of it is not marine plywood, coated in epoxy & fiberglass.

You will save weight with foam vs plywood, however the material cost is higher.  Wood has inherent strength with the epoxy/fibeglass to seal the wood where foam needs additional supports & glass to create strength.  If it were me, the deck would be plywood & epoxy. 
When you mention sealing the plywood, are you putting down a layer of cloth and epoxy or epoxy only.

If I used plywood it would be marine grade 3/8". And keep in mind the deck frame/support and under deck dry storage will be made from the same materials. 

Im really undecided on what to get now...

I can get 4'x8' sheets of MGP for:
1/2" 65.50
3/8" 61.30
1/4" 51.20
 

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Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time
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To seal the wood, epoxy alone is all that is needed. However, i would put cloth & expoxy on the exposed surface to help protect the wood.

Have you ever been to Bateau.com? They have some good tutorials and information on their forums. http://www.bateau2.com/howto-index.php

Take a look at how Bob (thanks for the awesome build blog Bob!) did his sole. It's not exactly the same, but you can see the steps: glassing, supports, bonding, etc. http://www.wetconcepts.com/24.htm
 

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B.S.
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405 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had actually seen his build before. He did an excellent job on the writeup!

I just sketched a drawing of how it will lay out, but won't be able upload the picture till this evening.

I'm starting to lean towards the plywood for the reason that I will be bolting in a seat post mount and large sealed hatch. The wood will give me a much better bit for screws and I will tie it into the new transom.

Any recommendations on cloth?
 

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Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time
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I'll leave the cloth suggestions up the the guys with practical experience. The 1700 biax would be overkill but since you already have it. But also keep in mind a preferred lamination is equal parts, by weight, of glass & epoxy. However it is more common to use much more epoxy, what I'm trying to say is weigh the cost of new cloth vs. the amount of resin you might use with heavier cloth.

You will be more than safe going with DuckNut's glass recommendations. If you go 45/45 instead of 0/90 to get a smooth finish more fairing will be required. Just another side item to keep in mind. ;D
 
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