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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would appreciate a little advice. My fly fishing was quite a while ago and fresh water for Bass and Bream. I am re-learning and practicing a good bit, but my question is: what distance do I need to achieve accuracy at for sight fishing Snook and Redfish? I've gotten pretty accurate out to 50 feet and much better to 60. Want to be sure I'm ready when I can get back down to the flats. Thanks for and guidance on this.
 

· Fly Fishing Shaman
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I agree with these guys. There are a lot of people who can cast up to 50-60ft, but most are not that accurate. So accuracy is a big plus.

The however will be.... will you be fishing from a boat, or from shore, or wading? What area of Florida will you be fishing?
 

· Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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Depends on conditions but 40-50’ and accurate with few if any false casts and you’ll be good. Practice off the wall shots too because you’ll find the fish like to show up in the most in opportune places.
 

· Fly Fishing Shaman
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What would you define accurate as?
flatzcrazy, I'm going to give a response to your question as a good question that I see some people ask, and for other people who are viewing this thread, including the OP and new people just getting into this sport of fly fishing. So I'm not necessarily directing this at you, but I've had to give this talk on countless occasions when the person is just not being able to get that fish to eat.


As far as accuracy goes, there are a lot of opinions on that topic. But let's just say, for this topic at hand, if someone can get it in within 2-3ft from your "fly placement target," then that is very fishable. If someone is hoping that accurate means getting the fly line laid in the direction you want it to go, no matter how the leader and fly unfurls out and lands somewhere in the general vicinity of the fish or your target, then you have to rely on conditions, the ability for the fish to sense there is something close enough for it to find and eat, or at least investigate, or, sheer luck! It's sort of like rolling the dice! ;)

Let's talk about that "fly placement target" for a moment. A lot of people think that is at the nose of the fish. It could be, depending on the fish, the species and the conditions. But the fly placement target could and mostly be in front of the fish, in the direction it is facing, out beyond it's path and out far enough for you to get that fly setup and tracking straight, hopefully will all the slack out of your fly line and bumping and swimming in the locomotion in what will cause the fish to react when it get's within eyesight and "feel" of it. Most in the know will translate that to just one word.... "timing!"

I've fished with plenty of people over the year (including myself (all 3 of us (me, myself and I)) ;)). And there were some that couldn't hit the broad side of a barn, but could have the fl stripped to and in place, acting alive and happy when the fish got there. While a few others could drop it into an upside down floating frisby 40-70ft out there, 2 out of 3 times (amazing!) but could never get the right "fly placement spot" down pat and would blow the shot up or end up spooking out the fish.

So the idea is to figure both of those situations out for the species you are fishing for and the conditions you are fishing in. What does that mean? It means, some fish in certain conditions need the fly plopped right on their nose in order to get it to eat. Even causing the fly (voluntary or involuntary) to crash and make a splash on the water, as an attractor to get it's attention, of the fish is either lazy or needs it on it's head or nose in order to see or find it. Those feerless LA reds or black drum come to mind in that example. While still others need the fly place far enough away from it and extend the target high enough off the water, to where when the fly unrolls out at the end of your casting shoot, it is 3-4ft up off the water with your rod tip still stationary up at 10:00 (for example) and then by dropping your rod tip to the water, it allows the fly to gently lay down on the water without alerting the fish and spooking it (we call that a "presentation shot"). Then with the line, leader and fly is moved in a way that puts the fly into position where the fish notices it from a distance (again, depending on conditions), and it get's in that mode where it "thinks" it hasn't been seen yet my the prey, it converts into that predator mode, moves in to investigate, decides if it's going to try to eat it or not and if so, takes the kill shot (or in this case, the "eat" shot). That is the point where the fish feels safe and comfortable and then by turning into that predator mode, it can almost be so focused, that it doesn't sense anything else that is going on and can focus on eating that thing that it wants.

So what am I saying? I'm saying some fish in some conditions, may need a fly to wack it on the head in order to cause it to eat, while others need that fly to go somewhere else in order for the fly to be setup and ready, according to where the fish is, how it's forecasted to move, the speed in which it's moving and the conditions it's in (i.e. water clarity, currents, temps, how many fish are present (competition and such), etc.) in order for the fish to feel safe and cause it to be "their" idea to eat and not your idea that you can whip it in the head and cause it to eat.

Yeah..... so....... Wow, that was a lot of "pontification" to describe the hows and whys of fly placement when referring to the term "accuracy." ;)

My therapy office is now close for the day. :cool:

Ted Haas
 

· Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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My thoughts are accurate depends on the fish and conditions. But in general if you can put the fly in an 24" circle you'll catch plenty of fish.

Here's what few guys understand. After the cast learn how to adjust the position of the fly with the rod!
Wind can be your friend! Lift the rod and let the wind bag the line and move the fly in ways you can’t when just straight stripping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've been casting at quart and gallon plastic milk bottles and call it accurate if I can hit them with the false fly I'm throwing. Thanks for the replies, I'm feeling good about my progress. It's going to be a while before I can get to S FL, but I'm going to head to Lake Lanier next week to try for Stripers on fly.
 

· I Love microskiff.com!
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flatzcrazy, I'm going to give a response to your question as a good question that I see some people ask, and for other people who are viewing this thread, including the OP and new people just getting into this sport of fly fishing. So I'm not necessarily directing this at you, but I've had to give this talk on countless occasions when the person is just not being able to get that fish to eat.


As far as accuracy goes, there are a lot of opinions on that topic. But let's just say, for this topic at hand, if someone can get it in within 2-3ft from your "fly placement target," then that is very fishable. If someone is hoping that accurate means getting the fly line laid in the direction you want it to go, no matter how the leader and fly unfurls out and lands somewhere in the general vicinity of the fish or your target, then you have to rely on conditions, the ability for the fish to sense there is something close enough for it to find and eat, or at least investigate, or, sheer luck! It's sort of like rolling the dice! ;)

Let's talk about that "fly placement target" for a moment. A lot of people think that is at the nose of the fish. It could be, depending on the fish, the species and the conditions. But the fly placement target could and mostly be in front of the fish, in the direction it is facing, out beyond it's path and out far enough for you to get that fly setup and tracking straight, hopefully will all the slack out of your fly line and bumping and swimming in the locomotion in what will cause the fish to react when it get's within eyesight and "feel" of it. Most in the know will translate that to just one word.... "timing!"

I've fished with plenty of people over the year (including myself (all 3 of us (me, myself and I)) ;)). And there were some that couldn't hit the broad side of a barn, but could have the fl stripped to and in place, acting alive and happy when the fish got there. While a few others could drop it into an upside down floating frisby 40-70ft out there, 2 out of 3 times (amazing!) but could never get the right "fly placement spot" down pat and would blow the shot up or end up spooking out the fish.

So the idea is to figure both of those situations out for the species you are fishing for and the conditions you are fishing in. What does that mean? It means, some fish in certain conditions need the fly plopped right on their nose in order to get it to eat. Even causing the fly (voluntary or involuntary) to crash and make a splash on the water, as an attractor to get it's attention, of the fish is either lazy or needs it on it's head or nose in order to see or find it. Those feerless LA reds or black drum come to mind in that example. While still others need the fly place far enough away from it and extend the target high enough off the water, to where when the fly unrolls out at the end of your casting shoot, it is 3-4ft up off the water with your rod tip still stationary up at 10:00 (for example) and then by dropping your rod tip to the water, it allows the fly to gently lay down on the water without alerting the fish and spooking it (we call that a "presentation shot"). Then with the line, leader and fly is moved in a way that puts the fly into position where the fish notices it from a distance (again, depending on conditions), and it get's in that mode where it "thinks" it hasn't been seen yet my the prey, it converts into that predator mode, moves in to investigate, decides if it's going to try to eat it or not and if so, takes the kill shot (or in this case, the "eat" shot). That is the point where the fish feels safe and comfortable and then by turning into that predator mode, it can almost be so focused, that it doesn't sense anything else that is going on and can focus on eating that thing that it wants.

So what am I saying? I'm saying some fish in some conditions, may need a fly to wack it on the head in order to cause it to eat, while others need that fly to go somewhere else in order for the fly to be setup and ready, according to where the fish is, how it's forecasted to move, the speed in which it's moving and the conditions it's in (i.e. water clarity, currents, temps, how many fish are present (competition and such), etc.) in order for the fish to feel safe and cause it to be "their" idea to eat and not your idea that you can whip it in the head and cause it to eat.

Yeah..... so....... Wow, that was a lot of "pontification" to describe the hows and whys of fly placement when referring to the term "accuracy." ;)

My therapy office is now close for the day. :cool:

Ted Haas
Thank you Ted for that very thorough explanation!
 

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Presentation is the larger category. Accuracy is part of that, as is speed. One situation might call on you to lead a moving fish by 8-10 feet (or more) and manipulate the fly just right at the just right time. Another might be to dink a fly delicately a foot in front of the fish’s nose.

I write that just as food for thought. Your accuracy sounds great. If you can do it in time and accurately you are good to go!
 

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I've been casting at quart and gallon plastic milk bottles and call it accurate if I can hit them with the false fly I'm throwing.
That'll work! One of the things I've seen as a setup for practicing is to place targets (your bottles work) at let's say 30 feet in one direction, 60 feet in another and 90 feet in yet another.

You can tailor your distances but what you'll end up with is a casting station in the middle of these targets at various angles and distances. The idea is to cast at each target while facing in the same direction, call the first direction you face while in the middle of these targets 12 o clock. Then stay in the same place but turn so that you're now facing 3 o clock and repeat the exercise. Then at 6, 9, back to 12 etc..

What you'll end up doing is practicing various distances at various angles and presumably with or against various wind angles. Use back casts when necessary.

Then the challenge out on the water is simply where to imagine your bottle, which folks have discussed well above.
 

· Fly Fishing Shaman
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Simple, putting the fly right where you intend it to be.
Yes true! I just my example was based on.... "where the fly should be, vs where you think you intend it to be." ;) But I guess it's just a matter of learning the fish and then knowing what works. Of course, then it's putting that fly right on the button (where it should be), when the pressure is on.
 

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Accuracy takes a lot of foresight. You have to be able to put the fly somewhere, anywhere, so that it ends up where you want it and at the proper time. WHERE and WHEN...

For example, I fish a lot of dock lights at night with moving water and floating flies. I can drop my fly right on the edge of the light in front of the fish (WHERE) but there will be a moment that I have to gather the line and be ready to strip and strike (WHEN). If a fish eats immediately after my fly lands, I'll probably miss it.

A less accurate cast is to just throw it somewhere past my intended target and a good bit upcurrent (WHERE). This way I can gather my line, strip the fly to a spot where it will drift through the exact same target, but already have my line under control (WHEN).

In this scenario, the beginning WHERE and WHEN of each cast is different, and the second cast is less "accurate". The fly ends up in the same WHERE but at drastically different WHENs. A less "accurate" cast results in a much better shot.

Accuracy is putting your fly WHERE it needs to be, WHEN it needs to be there.
 

· I Love microskiff.com!
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If you are accurate out to 60' then you will be able to catch fish...assuming you can see them.

I like to throw magnolia leaves out in the yard at different distances between 40-60' and then practice casting and picking the line up to recast among the different leaves. I make a mental call on the back cast to determine if I am aiming to the right or the left of the leaf to mimic which way it might be cruising...

For redfish, the ability to water haul and re-deliver the fly with a single back cast may be more important that pure distance...IMHO...
 

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I think your past experience fishing for bass is a great foundation for accuracy, especially if you were adept at tossing poppers into cover. I practice a little with targets, but more by throwing gurglers into the trees for largemouth bass, it makes the transition to sod and mangroves a lot easier. Being old, accuracy for me is mostly a factor if sight fishing, and beyond about 60' I can't see squat. Pure distance I think is important, but more so for people blind casting so they can cover a lot of water.
 
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