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Discussion Starter #1
I was just wondering if anyone knows of any company that makes a custom plastic or fiberglass casting platform for boston whalers. My buddy has a small skiff called a "Red Fisher" that has a custom plastic casting platform on the front. Right now I have a wooden platform I built but it's so heavy that it's hurting my polling ability in skinny water. If anyone knows of anything please let me know so I can get my boat in the skinny!!!
 

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Founder of Microskiff, Member of the Gheenoe Army
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Try finding a Rubbermaid or other brand plastic stepping stool/platform.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply but I wasn't very clear in my explanation of what I'm looking for. By casting platform I really meant deck. So basically I'm looking for a plastic or fiberglass custom front deck for a 14 foot boston whaler skiff. Like I had said, I've fabricated a wooden deck that's heavy as hell for both the front and back of the boat so I'm drafting about 1 1/2 inches deeper than I would be with a lighter deck. I'd say screw it but I'm getting into fly fishing so I NEED that flat front deck space. Any suggestions would be great!
 

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Owned a 13 whaler for many years. No, they don't do well with
lots of lumber. Eliminate all the heavy wood. Drop back down to
the level of the anchor locker and the in-hull mounting ledge.
Then build a new smaller deck at the same level as the anchor locker
using 1/2" birch plywood. You'll still have access to the anchor locker,
and storage space under the deck. Do the same thing at the stern
using the level of the splashwell and the mounting ledge to build a
new smaller deck that drops onto the mounting ledge. Paint or varnish
well. Plywood is still your best material for deck construction because
of it's weight to strength ratio and low cost.

link to example:

http://harpoonmarineinc.tripod.com/parts.htm

note that all decks are installed to the mount ledge, not the gunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see now where I went wrong. I built both the front and rear decks flush with the gunnel, using wooden legs and posts drilled into the fiberglass. The boston whaler I have doesn't have the mounting edge running from bow to stern. For some reason it's begins and ends about a foot and a half from both the bow and stern. I'll see what I can do with it though since the extra height definitely requires more wood and therefore weighs a lot more. With dropping the bow deck down, where do you mount a trolling motor?
 

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I've never liked trolling motors, because of extra weight,
cost, and prop noise on the flats where I fish.
To hear that noise, get in the water and listen.
Fish can hear better than you can, their whole body
reads pressure waves. Compare that to the size of your eardrums.
Still, for more info check here for tons of info on 13 whalers:

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/004249.html

You can extend the ledge using 1-1/4 inch angle aluminum
fastened into the ledge and extended along the sides of the hull.
Then using 1x2 fir braces from the deck up to the underside
of the angle aluminum to support the cantilevered end,
and attach a 1/4 inch plywood bulkhead to, to enclose the end of
and support the new decks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You're the man Brett! That site has some great options and your opinion on the noise of trolling motors is dually noted. I'm in college at UCF right now so I lack sufficient funds for major upgrades but my next will probably have to be a decent push pole because the bamboo stick I'm using right now ain't that strong. Poling is definitely a better option but my family is from fort myers so when I go down there the trolling motor is almost essential for mangrove fishing. Thanks for the advice though, I'll probably be using your idea this week and give the 'ol whaler an upgrade.
 

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Serious hardcore boat junkie, that's me.
My browser history reads full of engine tech sites, builders forums,
web-zines from micro to uber monster yachts. Links to marine supply
stores, lumber yards, coastal maps and aerial images.
When I got married, I told the wife she'd never have
to worry about another woman, just the other boats!

The best part of build pics and modifications, is seeing other
people's solutions to using the limited space allowed by their hull.
You can never tell when one of those solutions is gonna be useful.
 

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Ok, if you're a serious boat junkie, answer this...

When in the finishing stages of building a boat, are you already thinking of what your are going to do different on the next build? Before the current boat evens hits the water?
 

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I've already drawn up the plans for my next build.
Cartoppable tunnel cat, all deck, smaller motor.
1 man flyfishing boat. The "Polecat"
Less fiberglass and epoxy.
Marine plywood, no scarf joints
monocoque construction

I learned too much to list during the construction of the Slipper.
All will end up being used in the Polecat
 

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Here's when the next boat was already being planned... ;D

Re: Start from scratch
Reply #52 - Aug 24th, 2008, 6:04pm
Gonna glass most everything structural.
If I had used marine plywood this would not be necessary.
However no place nearby carried m-ply, and shipping costs
and times made it cheaper to glass than wait. If I really wanted
this boat to last I would have used m-ply and would have only had
to glass the seams and the bottom. Since I only need a couple of
years use to justify this hull, cheap and fast, with extra glass was
the way to go. This hull is more about learning the process. I
already have my next boat to build in my imagination. Even a few
sketches, 1 man skiff with a 2hp air cooled engine, the "Pole Cat."
 

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Interesting idea...I've got a design done for a small Texas sled tapered back to a cat tunnel type of stern; probably never see the light of day....
If you ever get down to the Ft. Pierce area, please stop by..
 
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