Covering up Chase / Rigging Tube Hole

I had a rigging tube installed that runs from my bilge area (below the cooler cutout) to my coffin box on an Ankona Shadowcast so I can run power and ducer cables to a GPS/FF on my grab bar.  Once I run the wires I would like to water tight that tube in with a cover I can remove without tearing up the deck surface whenever I need to re-run more wires.  I am thinking of using a piece of starboard or similar flat cover and some type of caulk-like adhesive as shown in the picture below.  What would be the best combination of material and adhesive such that it would be water tight and yet removable (~every 3-5 years)? Or if you have any other ideas on the best way to prevent water from getting in the tube please let me know.  Its got to be relatively flat because a cooler will be sitting above this hole, so a riser of some sort probably wouldnt work.  Thanks for any and all ideas.

 

Here are a couple pics to put it in perspective better.  That tube is essentially lower than the bilge area which is why I'd like to dry it in, otherwise the water just puddles up and sits in there.  Really trying to keep this deal simple as possible. The yellow piece of paper in the first pic would be some type of material with a hole in the top. I hear starboard and 5200 don't play well so I'm thinking using some type of caulk and just caulk the edges down to the deck and caulk up the small hole the wire would come out to dry it in.  I figure that should be easy enough to cut out when I need to access it again. I'd probably close up the hole in the coffin box as well.

So shoud I use starboard and caulk (type?) -or- use some other material and 5200 -or- some other design all together.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

Matty/Duck - both great ideas but those risers would possibly interfere with my cooler when it is in place, I'll have to check on that. Unfortunately I have yet to get into glass work, guess I need to learn that art one of these days. Whether I go riser or not I need to try to dry it in cause the kids get crazy with the hose back there. Plus I can see rain driven water slamming off the front top face of the cooler and dripping right down any open hole below it. Thanks for the ideas they give me something more to brainstorm with.

 

I have no doubt Mel would do whatever was asked of him wrt skiff mods, fixes or whatever, thats just the type of guy he is. He did a fine job installing that tube where it is given the constraints he had to deal with. Had I wanted to spend more $ for a flawless design I'm sure he would have gladly put the time in it and delivered. I'll take the 80% fix and tinker to finish it off my way to save a few bucks. No boat is 100% perfect but the value in these Ankona's is second to none, I'd imagine I could by 3 shadowcasts for the price of 1 hellsbay, thus managing expectations is required.

Whether the design of this tube is good or bad, IMHO I think small design flaws are a result of offering an infinite number of custom skiff options and sometimes certain customizations just don't jive together.

 

Gramps/Matty - good idea, definitely a possible solution.

Matty - where did you get the aquaplas that you used as backing for the wire panel on the SUV?

 

Ended up using .25" thick PVC Sheet (tapplastics.com) and sealed the edges with 4000UV.  Thanks again for all the recommendations.



NC - The guide box plumbed for a livewell was approx. $600. Grab bar not included.  Give Ankona a call for latest prices.