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310 Posts
Here is the short version of my build. It was a lot of fun, work, frustration and reward. I have never built a boat before. In 2017 I did build a cedar canoe and learned some basics. Chris Morejohn and the guys down in Broward that build a much nicer Conchfish than mine provided much support. I learned a lot and knowing what I know now could build a better skiff in less time for much less money. I started this project as a skiff for my friends and me to sight fish super shallow water in the Glades. I lost site of how simple I wanted this skiff to be but sold my Marquesa along the way and found out my wait for my next guide boat was going to be longer than expected so had to add some things to make it fishable in deep water in my home area, ie. trolling motor and more gear storage. The TM will be removed along with the second battery when not in use. When I take my next crack at this it will be the 17.5 version and will probably build in poly in the milder months to save cost. I have been experimenting with poly while waiting for the boat to be painted and am working on a set up gutter and hatch molds that can drop in a Conchfish or other similar skiff. Mostly because when you finish a project like this you have a void to fill having worked on something almost everyday for over a year and how fiberglass molds are made is very interesting to me.
The skiff is built mostly according to Chris' specs. 3/4" core, 3 layers of 10oz inside and out with epoxy resin. Chris' plans call for 1/4" solid glass for the chines. I substituted 1/4" Coosa. I would not do this again. I would use the same core on the hull or now that I know where to get it, 1/4" fiberglass stock sheets. The transom and stringer are Coosa and I would use it again for those parts. Not necessary but its my boat. The bulkheads are Coosa I did this thinking I was going to do open bullheads for added structural strength, since that didn't happen I wish I had not and saved the weight. I ended up with left over Coosa material and used it because it was there on other parts and I was running out of 3/4 core. The deck edges as I made them required additional strength just being 3 layers of 10oz. I had 1708 tape around and used one layer in the deck edge along with the three interior layers and it was perfect for the added strength I wanted. The deck is laminated in 17oz bias and 10oz. My choice. The hardest part of the build for me was glassing the inside and outside of the transom. That is just inexperience though. I made mistakes along the way and had hurdles but using common sense and walking in circles around it in the shop for hours was able to overcome. I had the boat professionally painted and had the hatches dropped in off existing molds. I also had professionally rigged. This was always the plan. This was a big expense but the final product is worth it but would attempt myself in the future to save money and time. I would still have it professionally rigged just because I suck at wiring and Justin who did it is THE MAN. Glasser Boatworks did the paint and hatches and helped with some laminate issues I had on the deck. The tower was made by Chris at Blue Point Fabricators.
I am very happy with the final product. It is a great design. It poles effortlessly, turns with no slide, has no hull slap in any of the angles I put it in, stable and runs quickly and predictably. Draft fully loaded gear, 15gal fuel, with Tm and two people 6". Light load, full fuel no TM 5". Top steed with stock prop light load 37, loaded 35, waiting for Powertech Prop. Thanks to everyone for the interest. Nothing left to do but fish the sucker now.
The skiff is built mostly according to Chris' specs. 3/4" core, 3 layers of 10oz inside and out with epoxy resin. Chris' plans call for 1/4" solid glass for the chines. I substituted 1/4" Coosa. I would not do this again. I would use the same core on the hull or now that I know where to get it, 1/4" fiberglass stock sheets. The transom and stringer are Coosa and I would use it again for those parts. Not necessary but its my boat. The bulkheads are Coosa I did this thinking I was going to do open bullheads for added structural strength, since that didn't happen I wish I had not and saved the weight. I ended up with left over Coosa material and used it because it was there on other parts and I was running out of 3/4 core. The deck edges as I made them required additional strength just being 3 layers of 10oz. I had 1708 tape around and used one layer in the deck edge along with the three interior layers and it was perfect for the added strength I wanted. The deck is laminated in 17oz bias and 10oz. My choice. The hardest part of the build for me was glassing the inside and outside of the transom. That is just inexperience though. I made mistakes along the way and had hurdles but using common sense and walking in circles around it in the shop for hours was able to overcome. I had the boat professionally painted and had the hatches dropped in off existing molds. I also had professionally rigged. This was always the plan. This was a big expense but the final product is worth it but would attempt myself in the future to save money and time. I would still have it professionally rigged just because I suck at wiring and Justin who did it is THE MAN. Glasser Boatworks did the paint and hatches and helped with some laminate issues I had on the deck. The tower was made by Chris at Blue Point Fabricators.
I am very happy with the final product. It is a great design. It poles effortlessly, turns with no slide, has no hull slap in any of the angles I put it in, stable and runs quickly and predictably. Draft fully loaded gear, 15gal fuel, with Tm and two people 6". Light load, full fuel no TM 5". Top steed with stock prop light load 37, loaded 35, waiting for Powertech Prop. Thanks to everyone for the interest. Nothing left to do but fish the sucker now.
