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Conchfish 16

190946 Views 742 Replies 76 Participants Last post by  commtrd
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Since everyone doesn’t have IG or not a member of Bateau.com, I will doing a build thread here. I started today build a strong back and was also able to cut some mold frames out. Here’s is the progress so far.
Floor Sport venue Flooring Drawing
Wood Floor Plywood Hardwood Lighting
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Travis, here’s what I use to Fair the hull in minutes. That is all the flat surfaces. You still have to long board the radiuses. I always start with the core having a big radius so as the glass builds up its till easy layup. Then you can put any type of radius on. I use 30% silaca and the rest glass bubbles. I never use wood dust as it will swell later with moisture. The flat pad is the same size as a sheet of sand paper. I glue it on with quick dry contact adhesive to a 1/8” sheet of ply that is glued to a 7” foam pad. Use a slow buffer or what I use is a variable speed grinder. Nothing faster than 2500 rpm.
The whole thing to think of when building like this is that the putty does all the work. Don’t ever grind raw glass. Just sand and fair putty. As they say “putty and paint will make the devil look like a saint”.

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Travis, here’s what I use to Fair the hull in minutes. That is all the flat surfaces. You still have to long board the radiuses. I always start with the core having a big radius so as the glass builds up its till easy layup. Then you can put any type of radius on. I use 30% silaca and the rest glass bubbles. I never use wood dust as it will swell later with moisture. The flat pad is the same size as a sheet of sand paper. I glue it on with quick dry contact adhesive to a 1/8” sheet of ply that is glued to a 7” foam pad. Use a slow buffer or what I use is a variable speed grinder. Nothing faster than 2500 rpm.
The whole thing to think of when building like this is that the putty does all the work. Don’t ever grind raw glass. Just sand and fair putty. As they say “putty and paint will make the devil look like a saint”.
That looks heavy duty! So the paper is directly on the ply and the ply is glued to a regular foam pad for the grinder/buffer?
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Travis, here’s what I use to Fair the hull in minutes......
Somebody would do the entire free world a favor posting a youtube on how to do this.....just sayin"
Thanks Chris!! I will build one of these and do a step by step process of it. That is if Chris don’t mind.


And Chris to correct myself earlier. I am using 404 west systems filler. But I’m not sure that is technically a wood flour or what it is? Maybe you know.
That looks heavy duty! So the paper is directly on the ply and the ply is glued to a regular foam pad for the grinder/buffer?
It’s easy to make. Buy a 7” foam pad that fits a 5/8” arbor. That’s standard thread size for polishers, buffers and such. Now buy a sheet of door skin. That’s 1/8” ply you buy to replace your kicked in door in your house. It’s about $12.00 a sheet. The rest you can use for patterns. Now cut this to 8-1/2”x11” or what ever the sand paper size is. Now glue this onto the flat side of the foam pad using epoxy glue. Make sure it’s centered.
Now to glue the sheets of sand paper on you buy feathering disc adhesive in spray form or just tube and smear around form. Spray or goo around on the ply sheet. Slap the sheet of sandpaper a few times to it till it’s starting to stick. Bingo it’s stuck on. Now when using this set up what the corners of the ply as they dissapear when it’s turning. I wear jeans when sanding. Lay it flat and let it Coast over the hull. You can tilt it just a little as the ply will bend. Put on plenty of putty, like a nice cake. It will fly off real fast and level. Once you see glass move on.
I use it on round hulls, convex ones like in the picture and can Fair a CONCHFISH hull in less than 2 hours time. Takes way longer to apply the putty.
I use 3M glass bubbles for all my fairing. The least expensive and the best. Use silaca to bulk up a bit or when on vertical surfaces. Stay away from WEST products as they are set up to make $. You can buy enough Glass bubbles in one box to build and fair 3 Skiffs for less than $200.00. Going the boutique WEST route you would be paying $1,500.00 for the same amount.
I have used this set up since 1978.
Wear a full facemask if you have one unless you have big fans.
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Today finds me with good WiFi in Bocas Del Toro Panama. I’am on my way sailing slowly to the Canal to transit in September.
I have been able to read and see all of the pictures on this post. I will shed some info here to hopefully clear up some questions.
To draw up the station molds on my plans you need to know how to use a tape measure, an angle for drawing out a square grid, a bendy batten, some finish nails, hammer and a pencil. You just draw up a square grid and as Travis said you then connect the dots... which are the measurement points.
Look up Wooden Boat magazine for all the ways to ( pick up the lines from your drawing) it’s easy and very rewarding when you put it all together.
Once you understand how all this goes together you will start to look at all the other boats hull shapes and start to think of what will work for your own needs.
When I drew up the Plans for the CONCHFISH and the LITHIUM skiffs it was a few years ago and all guys were talking about was building in stitch and glue and in wood, ply. That’s why they are drawn out this way.
BUT you can build in core the same way. Just use a bit thicker core 3/4”.
I like to build with cloth because of the weight and costs you save in resin use. Because Cedar is very stiff you don’t need that much glass. Same thing with core.
PLEASE LISTEN HERE. If building a full deck on any skiff that is glued and glassed to the stern you don’t have to build the stern up like it’s a production skiff. The deck glued and glassed on holds the stern in place. Most Production skiffs are just stuck together so they can get cracks and flexing issues at the stern joint. Not a problem with one-off skiffs.
Good consistent glass work is way stronger than a bunch of extra glass. Think one piece. Think of how strong the ends of a beer can are. It’s still the same thickness through out the can.
These CONCHFISH home builds should weigh with a full deck and floor somewhere around 325 lbs if built in core.
In cedar they will weigh a bit more. A typical HB skiff or a Gordon built skiff will weigh close to 485-500 lbs in the Whipray model if lucky today. A Chittum skiff would be very happy to weigh anywhere near what your homebuild will weigh.
What would be great is if you all put a site together on this site or Instagram, Facebook or so to help each other in buying materials and sourcing. There are lots of deals out there to be had on Craig’s list and so on. You just have to be ready to buy.
You can stretch this design out to 17-1/2’ by just adding another station in. You don’t need to make the rounded stern. Its what I drew in 1997 so I put it in the plans.
Anyone that wants a free set just look up on my blog and print out the info.
Once you understand how to draw stations from my hull lines drawings then you can build to all the drawings that have numbers on them. You just look up my details for reference.
I charge the plans fee because I end up answering Lots of questions to the builders and this is my fee. It’s been great getting to know the builders but I’am hoping you all can share enough from what you are learning so I can stop with the email questions and just post my designs for free.
It’s very rewarding to see all the interest, involment, and energy that’s happening with this little skiff design evolution that I first drew up in 1993. Thanks
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I built a sander today that Chris told us about. Let me tell you, this thing is bad ass! I used a harbor freight polisher. I didn’t have any plywood so I used a 1/2” piece of divinycell. I am going to try and attach a video of the minute I used it. It removed a lot of material.
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I built a sander today that Chris told us about. Let me tell you, this thing is bad ass! I used a harbor freight polisher. I didn’t have any plywood so I used a 1/2” piece of divinycell. I am going to try and attach a video of the minute I used it. It removed a lot of material.
I'd wear a mask
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I always wear a mask. I was gonna talk in the video but didn’t. It was only for a few minutes with the fan blowing
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Dayum that thing moves a lot of material quickly. Was that the blended epoxy / wood filler, and what grit were you using?
It was fairing material 410 West. I was using 80 grit.
I always wear a mask. I was gonna talk in the video but didn’t. It was only for a few minutes with the fan blowing
Who cares about talking, you can edit your voice in afterwards.

Your lungs are far more important.
G
Like DN said, Travis please protect yourself! This is something that hits home with me, ppe is always a must! We want to see your next builds on here! You only get one set of lungs!
Anyone that wants a free set just look up on my blog and print out the info.
Once you understand how to draw stations from my hull lines drawings then you can build to all the drawings that have numbers on them. You just look up my details for reference.
I charge the plans fee because I end up answering Lots of questions to the builders and this is my fee. It’s been great getting to know the builders but I’am hoping you all can share enough from what you are learning so I can stop with the email questions and just post my designs for free.
It’s very rewarding to see all the interest, involment, and energy that’s happening with this little skiff design evolution that I first drew up in 1993. Thanks
I’ve been modeling up this hull in CAD in my free time based off of the drawings posted on Chris’ website for an upcoming build (I’ve been given an ultimatum that I can’t start on the build until I finally finish rebuilding our house). So once I finish up this damn shoe moulding and painting cabinets/doors I’ll be starting.

Since Chris awesomely seems cool with RE’ing the boat off of what hes posted on his website I would be willing to share the file (with Chris’ approval of course) with those interested. No timeline on when that will happen as I’m juggling a toddler, a busy work schedule and rebuilding a house. Just wanted to throw that out there.

Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge and inspiring future generations of boat builders with your plans. I’ve finally got the fire under my ass to finish this house because I can’t wait to start this build.

OP, beautiful work so far man. Can’t wait for you to enjoy her.
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I’ve been modeling up this hull in CAD in my free time based off of the drawings posted on Chris’ website for an upcoming build (I’ve been given an ultimatum that I can’t start on the build until I finally finish rebuilding our house). So once I finish up this damn shoe moulding and painting cabinets/doors I’ll be starting.

Since Chris awesomely seems cool with RE’ing the boat off of what hes posted on his website I would be willing to share the file (with Chris’ approval of course) with those interested. No timeline on when that will happen as I’m juggling a toddler, a busy work schedule and rebuilding a house. Just wanted to throw that out there.

Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge and inspiring future generations of boat builders with your plans. I’ve finally got the fire under my ass to finish this house because I can’t wait to start this build.

OP, beautiful work so far man. Can’t wait for you to enjoy her.

Please feel free to share what you end up with the world. The more self built skiffs out there the better I feel. I am presently cruising on my sailboat in Panama till November and then I will be sailing out into the Pacific en route to BC Canada via Easter Island and on up. This trip will take my wife and I till next July. So I will not be taking the time to answer emails except to the people who have bought plans. With all these great builds being shown online all these guys are showing the world howits done. It’s great.
For me going back through the Panama Canal out into the pacfic after 43 years is a new lease on life. I will be looking for new boats to dream of and will be leaving my flats Skiff world to this side of the canal and you all.
I will say it here one more time, all the stuff on my blog is there to use for free.
Have fun on your build.
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G
Chris, You are such an inspiration and kindred spirit. May the seas be fair and your adventures be grand! Looking forward to reading about them, thanks for sharing your knowledge and adventures with is all!
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I’ve been modeling up this hull in CAD in my free time based off of the drawings posted on Chris’ website for an upcoming build (I’ve been given an ultimatum that I can’t start on the build until I finally finish rebuilding our house). So once I finish up this damn shoe moulding and painting cabinets/doors I’ll be starting.

Since Chris awesomely seems cool with RE’ing the boat off of what hes posted on his website I would be willing to share the file (with Chris’ approval of course) with those interested. No timeline on when that will happen as I’m juggling a toddler, a busy work schedule and rebuilding a house. Just wanted to throw that out there.

Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge and inspiring future generations of boat builders with your plans. I’ve finally got the fire under my ass to finish this house because I can’t wait to start this build.

OP, beautiful work so far man. Can’t wait for you to enjoy her.
Why don't you get Chris a copy so he could sell them for those who want to have their pieces CNC cut?

It would be a great gesture and maybe he will keep designing hulls for us.
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Why don't you get Chris a copy so he could sell them for those who want to have their pieces CNC cut?

It would be a great gesture and maybe he will keep designing hulls for us.
I believe he already has it in CAD. Nathan Shawl I believe does all of that for him.

Why do people want to go the CAD route? That takes the “building” out of the boat. It makes a person think when all you have are a set of measurements that you have to lay out on a piece of mdf.

Chris offering his plans for free on his site just shows what kind of person he is. He isn’t in the business for the money like many are. Thanks for that Chris!!
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Why do people want to go the CAD route? That takes the “building” out of the boat. It makes a person think when all you have are a set of measurements that you have to lay out on a piece of mdf.
The CAD route has a lot of benefits and I don’t think it takes the “building” out at all. Just like how people learn differently, some people visualize differently. I dont have an artistic bone in my body yet I got a rough 3D rendering of the boat drawn up in CAD in about 30 minutes - so it helps me visualize the end goal. It also helps me space plan my garage to show my wife that she can in fact still park in the garage during the build! More than likely I will loft the stations but as I progress I’ll have something to compare to.

Also just to clear things up, if I do provide CADs I would never even consider emailing @Chris Morejohn with a question about his hull and expect him to answer without paypal’ing him the $250 first. (ETA -I don’t want that to sound retaliatory to Chris’ post above, the intent of this comment is that it would be assanine for one to expect support on a build the designer has not seen any profit from)

I like Chris’ idea of developing a community around the design that can support itself.
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The CAD route has a lot of benefits and I don’t think it takes the “building” out at all. Just like how people learn differently, some people visualize differently. I dont have an artistic bone in my body yet I got a rough 3D rendering of the boat drawn up in CAD in about 30 minutes - so it helps me visualize the end goal. It also helps me space plan my garage to show my wife that she can in fact still park in the garage during the build! More than likely I will loft the stations but as I progress I’ll have something to compare to.

Also just to clear things up, if I do provide CADs I would never even consider emailing @Chris Morejohn with a question about his hull and expect him to answer without paypal’ing him the $250 first. (ETA -I don’t want that to sound retaliatory to Chris’ post above, the intent of this comment is that it would be assanine for one to expect support on a build the designer has not seen any profit from)

I like Chris’ idea of developing a community around the design that can support itself.
The CONCHFISH plans that I have been selling come in two forms. One you get my original hand drawn hull lines and offsets for how I wanted to originally build the Whipray except I have now changed the upper spray rail making it wider. I drew in the stern as originally drawn being curved.
Then Nathan Shawl did the plans on his computer drawing it up and fairing it out. It’s hard for computers to fair my hull designs out because my visions go from one type of hull shape aft and change to another going forward. This I see in my head and because I have built lots of boats I know from instinct and experience what shapes I can get away with.
Nathan and I have worked closely going back and forth with HIS hull lines of my hull lines to figure out how to get the computer to work with what I know can be had in reality and what IT sees in mathematical fiarm.
Remember computers are just calculators. They don’t know a break through shape when it gets put into them. They have to have a good computer technician help them fair in my crazy transition lines.
Now all my past designs up till I met Nathan Shawl I just drew up and lofted the stations and laid them out on a strong back jig and started laying battens over them. The worst I would be out might be 1/8-3/16” here and there in my transition area in the curve of the bilge. This is typical boat building one off. I would then just Fair the stations quickly by eye and start to plank the boat. To do this with a planked hull takes me 2-1/2 days to be ready to glass.
Now if it’s to be a biggger boat say 30-45’ I draw the hull lines up old school full size on the floor and fair with long battens. This is called lofting up the hull lines.
What all this means is with my CF plans you are getting two hull shapes to choose from but are very close in shape.
Now I feel that it’s great to get anyone into building and if using a computer makes it happen then fantastic. It’s the same thing with boating today. I grew up using a sextant for navigating. Just think of what it’s like having to keep track of what you think you are doing going through the water all the time. Keeping a written logbook. No VHF when I was young, just a compass and your wits.
When the GPS came along it changed my life. Makes things so much easier and less stressfull.
So yes please carry on with what ever gets you going.
I am presently designing and finishing up new designs for 5 new skiffs for five different companies that are all different. They will be coming to light in the market this coming year. I make a few $ from doing this. I can do this work on my boat anywhere.
What is killing me is when some guys that buy my plans after 5-8 email questions back and forth, when they get the plans the first thing they ask is “what do I do now?”.
I won’t have the time to answer these emails anymore this coming year because I will be sailing off the grid. So it would be great for others to pass on their info and I will get to be out of the loop. I will keep on posting all the hull shapes that my clients give me permission to show and everyone will either way see the refinements of my designs as they go along.
Where I am anchored now is the world of a thousand Pangas and Cayucos. The Cayucos are built in one piece of a hollowed out tree and are 30-40’ long. They go along really well with a 15 hp on the stern. No wake and really smooth running. But you have to have lots of room when you go in a turn and they weigh a ton. The Pangas do all the tourist hauling back and forth. They run along great, are dry but pound like crazy.
You know when ones coming by the spanking noise. I would love to redesign their mid section forward.
So many boats, so little time...
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