Conchfish 16

I do 2-3 coats from a paint gun, very thin coats though. I also use release wax on the wood before the pva the wax helps fill pores and grooves.

I filled in the crevices I found in the wood prior to the PVA however I did not use wax on it do you think I will be OK with three coats of PVA on it?

Are used a spray bottle For the PVA and then I even it out with a brush

After you pull your part from the mold give it a couple soap and water baths before sanding and fairing. The pva will just dissolve and wash right off, don’t try solvents as they will not work, regular dawn dishliquid and water is what it takes. Water mostly!

You should be fine with 2-3 coats, looks pretty heavy to me so she shouldn’t stick!

I did apply a Liberal amount up on the wood itself

Travis, looks good. Make sure where your hatch is going to lay down on the inner flange lip is 5/8” thick at the least to allow for the glass thickness on the hatch. If you use gaskets it has to be thicker.
I would suggest you smooth out your clay radiuses with your finger tip as good as you can now. Makes sanding easier. Also the hatch edge radiuses if big then hen the hatches will have to match them.
If you follow what I show on my blog then all will pull out.
Make sure to drill lots of vent holes in your core if it’s smooth sheets so it lets air out when bonding.
To the rest out there, remember the deck it being supported by the bulkheads, rod racks, sheer, stern, rod tubes and all the rest of the vertical supports. All will be glued together in one piece.
That’s how you get a very strong light Skiff.
Have fun

Great advise as usual Chris!

Chris I went 3/4” on the flange lip. I did smooth it out more since that video.

Yes I have smooth divinycell.

Do you recommend using thickened epoxy to glue down the core or just lay it wet on wet?

Travis Smith said:

Chris I went 3/4” on the flange lip. I did smooth it out more since that video.

Yes I have smooth divinycell.

Do you recommend using thickened epoxy to glue down the core or just lay it wet on wet?

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Use thicked epoxy. Drill out 1/8” holes for the air to get out. Use a serrated squeegee to growl the putty on and wet out the core with resin. Just push down lightly and add light weight like pint cans or your tools.

@Chris Morejohn ok thanks

In your blog it looks like you laid core all the way to the lip and hatches. Is that correct?

Travis Smith said:

@Chris Morejohn ok thanks

In your blog it looks like you laid core all the way to the lip and hatches. Is that correct?

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Look at the plans drawings and the drawings on the blog. You taper them and end them about 1/2” away from the edges. Lots of builders just but and fill with putty but that addas weight, cost and you don’t get the extra glass on the edges.

Travis Smith said:

View attachment 38876

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That is really cool. I am looking forward to seeing how this comes together. Way over my head.

Thanks man!! You could easily do it.

What are thise?

Travis Smith said:

What are thise?

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They are clay shaping tools - $8 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/AIBER-Sculpting-Modeling-Double-ended-Decoration/dp/B01F554LOU

yobata said:

They are clay shaping tools - $8 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/AIBER-Sculpting-Modeling-Double-ended-Decoration/dp/B01F554LOU

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Yep, that's them.

They also use them for cake decorating.

When you use them the excess clay will come out the sides of the ball and there will be a perfect little separation of the fillet and the excess that makes it simple to remove the excess with a putty knife.

Ok I’ll take a look at it

The biggest I found was a 12 mm y’all think that’s ok?

I’ve never used them with clay, they do work good for wax fillets though.
DN, do they work good with modeling clay? I know it’s pretty stiff stuff to shape.