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CF16, CF17.5, 10 WEIGHT, BERYLLIUM comparisons

7289 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Chris Morejohn
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it’s a great day today, I have become a grandad for the first time. A baby girl named Luna.
Life is good,
Now onto skiffs....
These drawings show the subtle differences that make all my designs different but totally original. Please look at the CF 16 hulls shape as compared to how it was built by me as the Whipray originally. I drew up the hull in 1997 to have the way wider lower chine pocket but it was narrowed in at Flips request to what you see here in the green hull. The wider width makes for a way dryer skiff when running. I wish I could have done this from the get go but that’s past history now. Look at my detail drawing of my chine pocket. If done to my specs you will not be in a skiff with spray coming all the way up to the sheer as your last area of defense.

Lots of current builders have adopted this chine detail today into their skiffs hulls. I widened the upper spray rail but kept the same hull sheer in th CF plans.
My idea was at the time to have small keels running down the side of the hull to save draft and to be able to deflect spray downward. It’s works really well if done properly. The only skiff builder I see to really get my bottoms ideas well is the Drake skiff. The others including HBBWs are too small in size. You will not slide with this chine.

Look at the picture of the 10 Weight being built by Brian Floyd. Really works well. You know your skiff, look at how your spray goes and think of how dry you will be.

I give out all these details to show and explain all my ideas knowing full well that they can be adapted by others. I don’t like hiding behind the terms “ proprietary info” “ pantent pending”
“ copyright infringement” “ the best skiff deigned ever” etc. I like to pass on my stuff knowing that if my skiffs perform well and I’am approachable then my plans will sell.

The next thing I want you all to look at is the RED STATION sections on the bow views. To me this is where the skiff will take the chop. Not aft or in the bow. I design around this area to have enough vee there to take the chop when trimmed down. The stern will be up on the surface and this area along with my original idea for the reverse spray strake helps keep you dryish.

The new Beryllium design for home builders will be able to have 2 different Chines to choose from and multiple bottom pads or vees to decide on along with 3 stern configurations. Plus you can build it as short as 16’ if wanting a bigger skiff than the CF16 but the shorter length.
You can see it’s a bit wider than the 10W skiff. This means it can carry more weight and stay at the designed draft. Also if building a lighter interior with a tiller this skiff can float in 4-5” no problem.
All these designs will take a tunnel well.
If built to my specs and plans they will all float as shallow as the most expensive all carbon skiff out there today at a materials cost of under $5,000.00. Add carbon or Kevlar if you want. To me a waste of $.
The cool thing about the Beryllium skiff is if you want more freeboard to look like a Panga skiff then as the builder it’s easy to change the stations to build.

The 10 Weight hull design is owned by Brian Floyd, you can buy finished skiffs from him, but no plans from me for this hull.

I am in the process of designing another hull that will fit inbetween the 10W and the Lithium skiff that I will sell as plans and will built by Biscayne Boaworks a new company on their own.
In the next month I will start posting aluminum hull shapes that can be built in core panels or ply using my stitch and glue system. Its very easy and quick to build this way in core.

Thanks for the interest in my designs


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Congratulations on the new granddaughter Chris!

All these bottom options for the Beryllium, does that require the builder have a separate mold, or will they be able to use one mold and put forms in it to accommodate all these options?

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Congratulations on the new granddaughter Chris!

All these bottom options for the Beryllium, does that require the builder have a separate mold, or will they be able to use one mold and put forms in it to accommodate all these options?
If building at home all the builder has to do is to decide which bottom shape works best for them and when laying out the stations they just cut to suit.
If wanting a few options when building a mold what can be done in a small shop is to make the hull mold as long as it could be so in the Berylliums case 18’5”. Then the builder can add a stern plug in using wax fillets to hold in place. Flats sterns are the easiest to use here. This way you could get a 16’ skiff out of the same mold.adding a tunnel is easy this way or stern pockets.
It’s not practical to try more complicated sterns, or go from a vee bottom to a pad. Angles and the precision needed are tedious using molds.
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