Building a Gheenoe Deck

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by CISbrown, Mar 3, 2011.

  1. CISbrown

    CISbrown Got Phish?

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    What type of wood would you use to glass in a deck on a Gheenoe? I do not want it to be really heavy and at the same time not weak and brittle.

    Where I took the storage/seat out in the middle is where it will be going to make the bottom flat.

    Also, how would you build the support ribs to support the the deck.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

    Michael
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    I'd glass a half-section of pvc pipe over the ankle-breaker down the middle of the hull
    to allow the hull to continue to drain fore to aft,
    and so that a panel of 1/2 inch plywood would be supported by the top of the pipe.
    Panel would fit between molded ridges port and starboard of centerline.
     

  3. CISbrown

    CISbrown Got Phish?

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    Thanks for the immediate response.

    What size half pipe would you use?

    Would I only glass the deck to the molded ridges?

    Would the question marks mark where the deck would rest as well as the pipe?

    Check the photo below to see if I am understanding it correctly.

    Sorry for so many questions, but I am a visual person and need to see it.

    Thanks again for your help,

    Michael
     
  4. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    cross section of decking construction
    panel fits between runners and half pipe size fits
    hull to underside of panel, cut pipe to fit.
    click on the image to see full size for better view
     
  5. CISbrown

    CISbrown Got Phish?

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    Brett

    Thanks for the photo it was a great help in understanding what you were explaining. Would this be a floating deck or would I screw the deck to the PVC pipe after glassing the pipe?

    Thanks,

    Michael
     
  6. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    No screws, ever, when bonding a false floor to a gheenoe hull.
    All attachments are done using fiberglass, resin and/or thickened resin to bed and fill gaps.
    All surfaces in the area to be bonded to, need to be sanded clean of paint or gel coat
    to ensure a proper bond with the new glass overlays.
    You'll also need to create a drain hole at the aft end of the new floor
    to allow water to flow down into the bilge and then aft to the pump.
     
  7. jasonrl23

    jasonrl23 Plays with Glass...

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    Bretts idea is awesome. Hind sight thats how I would have done my floor.

    As for the PVC pipe goes. Keep in mind that Polyester resin will stick to PVC better then epoxy will. If youre planning on glassing the PVC to the floor, Id coat them in a 3/4oz skin of chopped strand and polyester resin first. Then glass the seams with 4 oz tape and epoxy.

    Or skip all of that and bed them in with 3M 5200.
     
  8. SRQGator

    SRQGator Well-Known Member

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    If it's not too late, those outside ridges/stringers have wood in them and could rot, if they haven't already. I removed them on mine. The bonded/glassed edges of the floor will serve the same function as stringers.
     
  9. CISbrown

    CISbrown Got Phish?

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    SRQGator:Thanks! I did not know that. Fortunately I can still take them out.

    If anyone else have suggestions I am open for some.

    Also, what would you use to putty the deck to the floor?

    I am a beginner and the outcome of this projects solely rests in the hands of my fellow members. :-/

    Let me know if anyone would like to add their touch.

    Brett: Thank you for the floor design! It will be used.
     
  10. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Cut your plywood to fit.
    Sand edges to remove corners and splinters.
    Seal both sides and all edges with no-blush epoxy resin.
    Sand inside of hull to remove gelcoat or paint in areas to be bonded to.
    Cut pvc to fit distance from hull to underside of plywood.
    Bed pvc edges in thickened epoxy, fillet joint between pvc and hull.
    Minimum of 3 layers of 6 ounce tooling cloth glass over the pvc, overlapping onto the hull.
    Let harden, sand off any sharp edges, ridges or burrs.
    A line of thickened epoxy down the top of the pipe and where the plywood rests on the hull.
    Set plywood in place, weights over the pvc line and both edges.
    Smooth excess thickened epoxy to fill gaps and transition from plywood to hull.
    After hardening, sand smooth both exposed hardened epoxy and plywood.
    2 layers of 6 ounce glass epoxy resined along edges of plywood overlapping onto hull.
    Finish layer of 6 ounce glass epoxied over entire plywood surface and overlapping onto hull.
    Let harden. Sand with fine grit to remove epoxy gloss.
    Let epoxy rest for 7 days.
    Paint with non-skid deck paint.

    I've had time to think about it, can you tell?   ;)
     
  11. CISbrown

    CISbrown Got Phish?

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    Okay guys! This is what I have thus far from what you all have helped me decide. I am still curious as to what the false floor is going to attach to beside the edges where I will glass in. Will it vibrate on top of the pipe?

    Thanks again and any ideas will be noted.

    Michael

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  12. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    I'd be trying something like this.
    Bed the half-pipe in thickened epoxy, fillet the pipe to hull corners (small yellow triangles)
    Multiple layers of fiberglass over the top of the pipe to lock it to the hull. (thick green line)
    Thickened epoxy atop fiberglass/pipe to bond the deck to the pipe. (larger yellow triangles)
     
  13. CISbrown

    CISbrown Got Phish?

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    Brett

    Thanks a bunch for the help. What products, to be exact, would you use for doing this job?

    Michael
     
  14. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    I'd be using no-blush low-viscosity epoxy, for bonding strength,
    Wood flour or cab-o-sil for use as a thickening agent and 6 ounce fiberglass tooling cloth.
    I'd want to overlap onto the hull at least 3 inches past the edges of the pipe, both sides.
     
  15. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger I Love microskiff.com!

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    Did you follow through with this project?

    Tipsy
     
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