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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, as the title says, already having some motor issues with my Tohatsu 60. Here's the details I can give, I'm looking for help diagnosing the problem.

First 5 Hours
While breaking the motor in, I followed the book and never got above 3k rpm. During this period there were no issues but some wind did blow me into a shallow oyster bed which dinged my prop and got some mud sucked into the engine.

5-12 Hours
Would occasionally get the engine above 3600 rpm into the 4-4200 area. No issues ever arose until around 10 hours on the motor.
After 10 hours I started opening things up at this point and would cruise around 3800-4k rpm with occasional bursts to 5k. On one trip I was cruising at about 4k and then the motor sputtered and died. I put it in neutral and cranked it, started right up. No harm, no foul, I continued to the launch without issue.

The next trip, the same thing happened and I could not start the motor even though it was cranking fine. At this point, I brought it into the shop for a 10-hour check and to look into this issue. They said it looked like the battery was getting disconnected but also mentioned a fuel house was disconnected and they reattached it.

12-16 Hours
Got the boat back and took it out. Got up to 3600 rpm, no issue, onward to 4200, no issue, burst of 5k, no issue. Brought it down to 4200 and cruised to my fishing spot and ... it died. This time I checked the primer bulb and it was flat, no pressure. Pumped it a few times until pressure and it started right up. Ran it again and it died just a few minutes later.

Since this trip, this is how the motor runs all the time. Fine between idle - 3500 rpm. Anything above this and stalls and dies. From then on, that threshold of how many rpm I can run it at gets progressively lower.

I have changed the fuel separator filter, looked for any loose connections, totally removed the vent cap and still it persists.

Does anyone have any idea on what to do next? Currently have the boat in the shop for the 20 hour look over and will have them look at it, but I'm not feeling confident on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It’s a new boat and outboard, why not call the shop you bought it from?
Never break a motor in out in the bay, find a channel to run so you aren’t getting blown into shell beds.
I'm trying not to put Ankona on blast but I have been in touch with them and they seem to be completely stumped.
 

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Seems to be a restriction somewhere. How is the fuel line rigged? Can you see where it goes into the rigging chase and comes out at the rear?
 

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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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I've had more than one primer bulb that was bad right out of the box. Worth a look. Also might be a faulty fuel pump. I'd expect the shop/dealer to do the diagnostics on a boat that new. First thing I'd do is watch fuel pressure. Probably need a remote gauge to check it while under a load, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've had more than one primer bulb that was bad right out of the box. Worth a look. Also might be a faulty fuel pump. I'd expect the shop/dealer to do the diagnostics on a boat that new. First thing I'd do is watch fuel pressure. Probably need a remote gauge to check it while under a load, though.
The reason I'm not putting Ankona on blast is I live in Louisiana and they aren't close enough to look at this themselves. If it is an expensive fix, I will put them on blast if they refuse to help with the costs.

That said, yes, it pees fine. There are no visible issues I can see aside from it stalling. Looking at the fuel in the fuel filter it looks clean. The fuel filter appears to have adequate fuel inside of it as well. Oil is clean, everything looks spotless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Seems to be a restriction somewhere. How is the fuel line rigged? Can you see where it goes into the rigging chase and comes out at the rear?
There's a tank inside of the hatch at the bow, I can see everything going into and out of the tank there, but I lose it when it leaves the hatch until I can pick it up at the stern and see it go into the primer ball, the fuel water separator, and then into the case.

From what I can see, everything looks good (I am not an expert though).

One thing that makes me think it's not a restriction and more a fuel pump issue is this gets worse as time goes on. The last time I went out I had an hour of good running and then it progressively got worse to where I couldn't get 5 minutes of good running.
 

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Sounds like a fuel issue and probably not the motor. I once had to replace my fuel separator housing unit due to corrosion which compromised a good seal and allowed pump to suck air. Acted just like yours. Might not be that but it definitely sounds like a fuel system issue and I doubt the fuel pump- last possibility. Bryson's suggestion is a good one to help isolate the issue.
 

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This reminds me of a crack that i had in on my furl tank. Fill up tanks, run for however long and then it dies. Bulb is flat. Re prime bulb and run again until it dies. I looked at everything and then i finally saw a small crack on the outside of the portable tank. That crack allowed air into the tank and the fuel line would lose pressure. I had to prime the bulb on a 12 mile run back to the ramp while my buddy drove my boat.
 

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He is in Louisiana, that won’t be a skip and a jump or cheap trip. Definitely try and avoid that if possible. Most times it’s something simple. Hope so, anyway.
 
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