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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
@FSUDrew99 and his trailer bunks thread got me thinking I should re-do my bow safety chain. I've seen some galvanized cable, galvanized chain, stainless chain, etc. as options for this application. What are some of the things I should consider?
 

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Easy peazy... galvanized chain that exceeds the total weight of your entire rig (boat, motor, trailer, and all the "stuff" your boat actually has in it - fuel, ice, batteries) - you know, the actual weight those two chains might have to keep you connected to in an emergency... and don't forget the hooks on the end of each chain.

Chain is rated by proof coil in pounds so you can easily see what size chain is needed - then you'll want enough of it so that there's a nice belly under the chain when you're hooked up and running... while still having at least a two inch clearance above the roadway...

Lots of trailers are built and sold with the cheapest weakest hardware possible so don't go by what you're replacing (another of those "ask me how I know" deals...) - make sure you're squared away for that one incident where everything goes sideways and you want your boat to stay on that trailer while all the other bad stuff is happening...
 

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Don't forget to cross the chains either. When crossed, the trailer tongue will be cradled in them if it becomes disconnected giving you a chance to lessen damage and hazard to those behind you. Uncrossed, the tongue will dig into the road and create havoc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All great feedback. Thank you!

I updated the title and my post since they were confusing. I meant to ask about what I should use for the bow safety chain between my skiff bow eye and trailer.
 

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I have stainless chain with a stainless clevis and threaded chain link to the bow eye. The chain is through a piece of clear tubing around the winch post so it’s quiet and not wearing on the post.
I have coiled nylon coated cable with clips for my trailer safety chains
 

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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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I have stainless chain with a stainless clevis and threaded chain link to the bow eye. The chain is through a piece of clear tubing around the winch post so it’s quiet and not wearing on the post.
I have coiled nylon coated cable with clips for my trailer safety chains
Why the clevis in addition to the threaded link?

edit -- just realized you were probably talking about each end of the chain, not that they were connected together...
 
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Don't forget to cross the chains either. When crossed, the trailer tongue will be cradled in them if it becomes disconnected giving you a chance to lessen damage and hazard to those behind you. Uncrossed, the tongue will dig into the road and create havoc.
Yeah, uncrossed you run the risk of the trailer/boat "pole vaulting" in the event of a disconnection. Bad sh.t!
 

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Why the clevis in addition to the threaded link?

edit -- just realized you were probably talking about each end of the chain, not that they were connected together...
Because the threaded link wouldn’t fit through the two links of chain and I needed the extra length so the link would barely go through the bow eye to keep the chain pretty short. I don’t want a foot of slack if somehow my winch strap and both stern Boat Buckles come undone or are forgotten about. I’m pretty sure I could flip my trailer and the boat would stay on it.
 

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Have I started the snap shackle/ safety chain trend?!!!! haha

I love it though.. Unhook winch once you stop on the steepest of ramps and yours ready to rock whenever you pull the chord for the snap shackle. Cant beat it.
 

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Have I started the snap shackle/ safety chain trend?!!!! haha

I love it though.. Unhook winch once you stop on the steepest of ramps and yours ready to rock whenever you pull the chord for the snap shackle. Cant beat it.
Not to be dumb, but how do you remove the old hook from the safety chain? I would like to add a snap shackle as a replacement to the standard hook.
 

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tool shaming.....u--u---uu---elitist
At least it’s not a battery powered one...
Everything is made overseas now, can’t shame anyone!
My Makita cordless drill and impact are about 7 years old, original batteries and have probably ten million fasteners and holes under their belt and still going strong.
 
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