You have not stated why you were thinking of adding an additional piece of hardware.

Search another thread on this site about the IPB 14 and "plow".

It's confirmed the boat has a "hook" and IMHO the true tracker will make it more difficult to dial in the trim.  If you have a porpoise issue, move weight forward.

Microskiffs are far from perfect boats but many that have been doing it for a while just know how to get one dialed in quickly.  Modifications made that deviate from the manufacturers prototype can create additional issues to deal with.

I personally like the True Tracker but on the little boats I prefer the Permatrim because you can cut the trailing edge to customize it for the skiff.   The True Tracker for a 25 Merc is modified from a much larger unit, cast aluminum, therefore much more difficult to modify.

 

I was thinking of purchasing it to get a faster hole shot. That is pretty much it. I dont really have a porpoising issue, she does ride kinda flat. I have read the Nose dive discussion, and I am trying a little test and tune with the set back and height of my mini manual jack from Bobs to get the best ride.
Thanks for the reply Skiff Junky.

 

Assuming your now running an OEM 10-3/8 x 13 3 blade aluminum -For a better hole shot, go to a 12 pitch 3 blade with a little extra cup. Expect to lose 2-3 mph off your top end.  Part number from Power Tech would be SRA3R12PM25.  Test and have a local shop add the extra cup.  Mercury makes a great OEM stainless "Vengeance" but I think it's only available in 13 pitch.  If you could borrow one, I would try it - great prop at a great price IMHO.

If you are using the stock OEM prop, feeling sporty,  and you want to do it on the cheap with some mechanical skills, You could ventilate what you have allowing it to wind up quicker.  Small hole enlarging till you get the hole shot but with caution, too big will negate everything and you will have to fill.  On an OEM prop, drill small holes and if it's worse, fill with marine tex or thickened epoxy if you don't want to go to the expense of having a prop shop weld the holes closed.

Here is the explanation for how to do it but remember your boat is scaled down so the holes will be much smaller. I would start with 1/8" and work up to 3/16" if needed. Larger than 1/4" and I thing you will be refilling the holes   The document attached notes a lot of testing and with micros more sensitive, go slow with extensive testing should you choose this route.

http://marinemechanic.com/site/page76.html

A 4 blade would IMHO provide too much lift and you are already riding flat.

 

Skiff Junky thanks for the great advise. I was luckily enough able to purchase a OEM Vengeance prop on Ebay for $71. Its the factory 10 3/8 x 13p 10 spline. The factory aluminum prop gave me great speed, sometimes a little to fast. Then spun the hub on the aluminum prop. Feels like a surfboard with and outboard.
Going to test out the stainless vengeance prop, get aluminum re-hubbed and try what you said.

 

You may find the Vengeance will "get'r done" and you won't have to ventilate.