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Sharp Hooks Matter
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Why the spare hub? Do they tend to overheat and fail?
If you're towing down the street skip the spare hub. Towing any distance it can be difference of an under 1 hour delay or good luck being broken down on the side of the road who knows where and for how long wishing you had forked over the less than $100 for a spare hub. I just have a mental picture of being broke down on Alligator Alley between Everglades City and Homestead - not good. If you leave your boat & trailer on the side of the road to shag another hub, what do you think you will have left when you get back? o_O In a word - insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Ok I got the skiff finally, and the trailer looks set up wrong to me.



I mean, shouldn't the jack be in front of the winch? The hull is nowhere near that rubber bumper.





Looks like it can get lowered a good few inches too.

Any advice on how to proceed to upgrade and prep it properly? Should I invest in stainless fasteners? I plan on ordering the stainless lug nuts, should i get stainles studs as well? I plan on upgrading to radial tires before I go to the keys but these will do for now.

Also how do i go about "greasing" the trailer? I know lithium grease was mentioned, do I use the spray type and spray the crap out of it, or slather on the stuff that comes in a tube with a paint brush or something?

Also how do I go about grounding it better?

Lol although this is pretty much a brand new trailer it seems like I have a lot of work to do :LOL:
 

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The jack is probably where it can fit and fold up. No problem where it is that I can see. As far as grease is concerned, you want boat trailer wheel bearing grease. If its called something like that its probably the right stuff. If you don’t know how to remove, clean and regrease the wheel bearings, take it to a reputable shop. And maybe ask someone to show you how for the next time. Also, don’t tow the trailer too fast. Those little wheeled light trailers can lull you into thinking you can haul ass, ‘cause they seem to tow like nothing is back there

I’m of the opinion that lack of maintenance and not paying attention is the primary cause by far of trailer breakdowns. If you clean and repack the wheel bearings once or twice a year the chances of ever having one fail goes way, way down. Same for tire pressure. Air them up as specified for size and load and check them each time before you go and you are miles ahead. And if its been in saltwater, the coin operated carwash is your trailers friend.

I put a little anti seize on my lug nuts. Some think that is a foolish move. I am not one of them.
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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I’d use stainless fasteners and use TefGel on every single one, washers and all. Buy the 2oz tub and use it like Frank’s Hot Sauce. Starting with a fresh trailer is the BEST time. Spray everything else with CorrosionX HD in the green can, especially the axle. Paint the trailer with it, you will only be inhibiting rust cancer from starting.
 

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Looks like I may be buying a new 14' skiff here soon, and was wondering what the best route to take for a trailer is. The company that makes the skiff (Rabco) offers a galvanized or aluminum Continental trailer ($1450 - $1750) but I was wondering if should just get one myself and go with another manufacturer like Magic Tilt instead. Does it make a difference or are all these trailers pretty equal? Also what is the consensus on galvanized vs aluminum?
A good aluminum trailer is what I went with. I have a Magic Tilt. I have a Mitzi 17T. My trailer is 4 years old. I just changed the hubs and got new tires. The best trailer tires IMHO are the Goodyear Endurance. I have them on my RV and they are great trailer tires. I had a seal start leaking on a hub so I just got new hubs. Like everything that has to do with a boat there is a lot of maintenance. I would suggest getting a trailer that has 15” wheels. You can get Goodyear endurance tires. Mine has 13 “ and Goodyear does not make that size in Endurance. I ended up getting the same tires I got 4 years of use, the are Rainier. I did get the 65psi tires this time which gives a higher speed rating. I like the idea of spraying lithium grease on the springs. I keep a 5 gallon sprayer with Salt Away in it and I spray the trailer down on all parts that are not aluminum. Seems to keep the rust off. I spray all the nuts and bolts with anti corrosion spray about once a month. I keep a extra hub with my Jack. Most of my friends and family that I go on vacations with have flat tires or other trailer issues when traveling. I have not. They look at me like I’m nuts replacing parts every 3-4 years. Peace of mind is worth much more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
As far as grease is concerned, you want boat trailer wheel bearing grease. If its called something like that its probably the right stuff. If you don’t know how to remove, clean and regrease the wheel bearings, take it to a reputable shop.
As far as the grease I was talking about this.....

trick is to cover the springs in lithium grease water will run off like water on a Ducks back....i coat all steel with lithium take wheels off rub them on inside and mounting surface lug nuts ect...you can thank me later 😉👍😎
Was wondering if soaking with spray lithium is ok or if I should use the grease out of a tube and brush it on.

I’d use stainless fasteners and use TefGel on every single one, washers and all. Buy the 2oz tub and use it like Frank’s Hot Sauce. Starting with a fresh trailer is the BEST time. Spray everything else with CorrosionX HD in the green can, especially the axle. Paint the trailer with it, you will only be inhibiting rust cancer from starting.
This sounds like a plan, I have both in my Amazon cart.

This place Fasteners Online | Pinellas Park, FL | Tri-City Bolt & Screw is right up the road from me, gonna take everything I need with me and just have them match it instead of guess ordering online
 

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Sharp Hooks Matter
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As far as the grease I was talking about this.....



Was wondering if soaking with spray lithium is ok or if I should use the grease out of a tube and brush it on.



This sounds like a plan, I have both in my Amazon cart.

This place Fasteners Online | Pinellas Park, FL | Tri-City Bolt & Screw is right up the road from me, gonna take everything I need with me and just have them match it instead of guess ordering online
You will likely get a better grade of SS going the local route too. Not all SS anything are of the same quality. Some of the crap they sell as SS from China that Amazon loves to sell is flat garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Yeah good point there, altho I should probably ask them where they get their SS from lol. Gonna start getting some of the nuts and bolts off and do a tally of how much i'm gonna need tomorrow. Will document the progress, I'm thinking this thread could be helpful to others in the future.
 

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ALL ANSWERS WILL BE IN BLOCK CAPS SIMPLY FOR EASE OF DIFFERENTIATING THEM FRUM THE OP'S

Not to start a pissing match but if your bouncing around you have the wrong spring rate for you boat plus Load , correct spring rate plus radials she will be smooth as silk .....id also get the largest diameter tire you can get the extra sidewall at correct pressure for your rig, adds to the smooth ride...👍😎
Silent Drifter, HAS MADE SUM VERY GOOD POINTS WHICH NEED SERIOUS CONSIDERATION

Also I'm assuming if I'm going to be making trips to the Keys that a spare tire or two would probably be a good idea :LOL:
skinny_fishing, ONE DEFINITELY ... THE 2ND WILL BECOME HANDY AS THE TIRES AGE

TRAILER TIRES ARE INDICATED SO WITH AN "ST" IN THE SIZE LINE EMBOSSED ON THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRE

IIRC THERE IS ONE TRAILER TIRE BRAND/SERIES THAT IS MADE IN USA

ALL THE OTHERS ARE MADE IN MUCH LESS REPUTABLE LOCATIONS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD :-O

LEARN TO READ THE AGE OF YOUR TIRES AND REPLACE ALL "ST" DESIGNATED TRAILER TIRES BEFORE THEIR 5TH BIRTHDAY

If hes going to try dry launch he should try the bunk lubricants 👍 such as liquid Roller or the environmental safer Gulf Wax 😉👍 !
Silent Drifter, IS ABSODADGUMLUTELY CORRECT

HOWSUMEVER DAWN DISHWASHING LIQUID SQUOZE ON THE CARPET IN A SERPENTINE SQUIGGLE WHILE THE BOAT IS OFF THE TRAILER WORKS QUITE WELL AND IF IT IS GOOD ENUFF TO CLEAN PRECIOUS WILDFOUL WHEN THEY GET OILED IT MUST BE SAFE FOR THE WATERS

Ok I got the skiff finally, and the trailer looks set up wrong to me.



I mean, shouldn't the jack be in front of the winch? The hull is nowhere near that rubber bumper.





Looks like it can get lowered a good few inches too.

Any advice on how to proceed to upgrade and prep it properly? Should I invest in stainless fasteners? I plan on ordering the stainless lug nuts, should i get stainles studs as well? I plan on upgrading to radial tires before I go to the keys but these will do for now.

Also how do i go about "greasing" the trailer? I know lithium grease was mentioned, do I use the spray type and spray the crap out of it, or slather on the stuff that comes in a tube with a paint brush or something?

Also how do I go about grounding it better?

Lol although this is pretty much a brand new trailer it seems like I have a lot of work to do :LOL:
skinny_fishing, YOU HAVE YOUR WORK CUT OUT FOR YOU !!!

YES YOUR WINCH STAND AND TONGUE JACK ARE IMPROPERLY LOCATED IF THE BOAT IS PROPERLY LOCATED AND BALANCED

JOB #1 IS TO INSURE 2 THINGS ... BALANCE AND TRANSOM LOCATION

TONGUE WEIGHT FOR A RIG LIKE YOURS SHOULD BE BETWEEN 50# AND 75# WHICH CAN BE WEIGHED ON A SIMPLE BATHROOM SCALE

THE TRANSOM SHOULD BE RESTING ON A BUNK DIRECTY ABOVE THE BUNK'S SUPPORT TO THE TRAILER FRAME

IF YOUR SKIFF HAS THE MOTOR MOUNTED FWD OF THE AFTERMOST POINT OF THE HULL/IN A WELL SO TO SPEAK THEN THE "TRANSOM" IN THIS CASE IS THE MOTOR MOUNT IMHO

MANY TRAILERS MOUNT THE ACTUAL SPRINGS TO A PIECE OF ANGE IRON THAT CAN BE SLID FORE N AFT TO ACHIEVE THIS BAANCE

IF YOUR TRAILER SPRING MOUNTS ARE WELDED DIRECTLY TO THE CHANNEL IRON FRAME THIS OPERATION WILL BECOME A BUNKING ISSUE

ONCE THE BALANCE IS WITHIN THE ABOVE STATED TARGETED RANGE MOVE THE WINCH STAND AND WINCH MOUNTING BRACKET SO THE BOW EYE IS JUST ABOVE THE RUBBER "V" BOW STOP AND THE WINCH PULLS JUST A HAIR DOWNWARD TO GIVE YOUR HULL A DEFINITE RESTING POSITION DURING TRAVEL

WHEN WINCHING THE BOAT OFF THE GROUND WITH THE TRAILER TILTED YOU CAN RUN THE WINCH STRAP BELOW THE RUBBER BOW STOP UNTIL THE BOW EYE IS CLOSE TO THE STOP

LOWERING THE HULL ON THE TRAILER CAN POSSIBLY ALLOW THE CENTER OF THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL/BOW TO CONTACT THE TRAILER FRAME DURING LOADING WHICH IS NOT A GOOD THING

JUST BE AWARE AND CAUTIOUS

THE SIDE BUNKS APPEAR TO BE SET TOO FAR APART

IMHO THOSE BUNKS SHOULD BE LOCATED SO THE BOAT HULL DOESN'T HAVE THE ABILITY TO MOVE SIDE TO SIDE DURING THE LOADING PROCESS AND/OR DURING TRAVEL

THE FRAME CROSS BARS NEED PADDED BLOCKS IN THE CENTER TO KEEP THE BOW OFF THE METAL BARS DURING LOADING

ONCE THESE INITIAL ISSUES HAVE BEEN ADDRESSED THE TONGUE JACK NEEDS TO BE LOCATED SO THE HANDLE CAN BE AFFECTED EASILY W/O INTERFERENCE FRUM THE HULL OR WINCH STAND AND THE WINCH HANDLE

I PERSONALLY PREFER BOTH HANDLES ON THE PORT SIDE FOR EASIER ACCESS BY THE TOW VEHICLE DRIVER WHEN PLAYING SOLO

BEING AHEAD OF OR BEHIND THE WINCH STAND DOESN'T REALLY MATTER ... JUST BEING ABLE TO USE IT CONVENIENTLY

COME UP WITH A METHOD TO SECURE THE TONGUE JACK HANDLE SO IT DOESN'T DRAG DURING TRAVEL

ADD A CABLE OR CHAIN FRUM THE TONGUE TO THE BOW EYE SO WHEN THE STRAP DIES YOUR BOAT DOESN'T ESCAPE HER CHARIOT

I USUALLY SECURE THIS SAFETY CHAIN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WINCH STAND

YOU DIDN'T PICTURE THE WHEELS AND DUST CAPS SO I CAN'T TELL WHICH STYLE AXLE YOU HAVE A/O WHETHER OR NOT THERE IS ALREADY A METHOD OF LUBING AND KEEPING THE BEARINGS LUBED IN PLACE

THIS REPLY IS GETTING LONG

BON CHANCE
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Holy caps lock Batman!

Yeah you make some good points, it's just doesn't seem right. I called a mobile trailer repair guy to get a quote to set it up correctly because I really don't feel like dealing with it lol. I could probably get it right eventually but who knows how long and how many swear words that would take :LOL:

[edit] The trailer guy stopped by and said all the bunks were perfectly fine and that he wouldn't lower it if it were his trailer. The only problem is the winch and jack which are backwards. He does warranty work for Continental and said the jack is usually on the driver's side of the trailer, and that the bump stop of the winch should be against the hull right above the eyelet in case of an accident so the boat doesn't go flying forward. I decided that I could fix that easily enough, so he went on his way, but he was very helpful and if I ever need any trailer work I will call him for sure. For anyone in the Pinellas County area his business is called Cruncher Trailer Repair, really nice guy, and you can't beat mobile service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Swapped positions with the jack and winch, with the jack on the driver's side now.....Much better.



This is how it should be, nice and snug, with the bumper actually doing it's job.



The trailer guy made lots of sense, the way it was previously if i would happen to get into an accident the boat could have come off the trailer and/or get damaged, at least now it's secure and has a much better chance of staying in place if anything were to happen.

Also noticed this.....Is it normal for grease to be coming out of the hub like this or is it a problem?

 

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^^^^^^theres a seal on the side your looking at or supposed to be it needs to be replaced ,while you got it off grease them springs 😉 its easy to change just take the wheel hub assembly off all together no need to remove wheel from hub,roll it over i use a Big screw driver just pop it out tap the new one in,if the seal dont want to come out take a punch to it cave the side of it in it will come out then tapping from outer edge towards center ,if you have doughts take the assembly with you to a trailer shop only takes a minute to install ....seals are around $5 dollars and up depending on brand ...

That seal being bad will let salt water in your bearings ,make sure to not over grease it when you reinstall it 👍 check the condition of the axel shaft where the seal rides it should be smooth no burs or pits ...
 

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Had a Peterson aluminum under my BT. Break away tongue but could not be even open any tailgate once skiff hitched. Only came with one safety chain so had to add another. Currently have a Ramlin under my 350# skiff and love it. Nice to have the weight with a light skiff and it seems built very well as a dry launch/load trailer. Much nicer than previous.
 
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