ALL ANSWERS WILL BE IN BLOCK CAPS SIMPLY FOR EASE OF DIFFERENTIATING THEM FRUM THE OP'S
Not to start a pissing match but if your bouncing around you have the wrong spring rate for you boat plus Load , correct spring rate plus radials she will be smooth as silk .....id also get the largest diameter tire you can get the extra sidewall at correct pressure for your rig, adds to the smooth ride...👍😎
Silent Drifter, HAS MADE SUM VERY GOOD POINTS WHICH NEED SERIOUS CONSIDERATION
Also I'm assuming if I'm going to be making trips to the Keys that a spare tire or two would probably be a good idea
skinny_fishing, ONE DEFINITELY ... THE 2ND WILL BECOME HANDY AS THE TIRES AGE
TRAILER TIRES ARE INDICATED SO WITH AN "ST" IN THE SIZE LINE EMBOSSED ON THE SIDEWALL OF THE TIRE
IIRC THERE IS ONE TRAILER TIRE BRAND/SERIES THAT IS MADE IN USA
ALL THE OTHERS ARE MADE IN MUCH LESS REPUTABLE LOCATIONS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD :-O
LEARN TO READ THE AGE OF YOUR TIRES AND REPLACE ALL "ST" DESIGNATED TRAILER TIRES BEFORE THEIR 5TH BIRTHDAY
If hes going to try dry launch he should try the bunk lubricants 👍 such as liquid Roller or the environmental safer Gulf Wax 😉👍 !
Silent Drifter, IS ABSODADGUMLUTELY CORRECT
HOWSUMEVER DAWN DISHWASHING LIQUID SQUOZE ON THE CARPET IN A SERPENTINE SQUIGGLE WHILE THE BOAT IS OFF THE TRAILER WORKS QUITE WELL AND IF IT IS GOOD ENUFF TO CLEAN PRECIOUS WILDFOUL WHEN THEY GET OILED IT MUST BE SAFE FOR THE WATERS
Ok I got the skiff finally, and the trailer looks set up wrong to me.
I mean, shouldn't the jack be in front of the winch? The hull is nowhere near that rubber bumper.
Looks like it can get lowered a good few inches too.
Any advice on how to proceed to upgrade and prep it properly? Should I invest in stainless fasteners? I plan on ordering the stainless lug nuts, should i get stainles studs as well? I plan on upgrading to radial tires before I go to the keys but these will do for now.
Also how do i go about "greasing" the trailer? I know lithium grease was mentioned, do I use the spray type and spray the crap out of it, or slather on the stuff that comes in a tube with a paint brush or something?
Also how do I go about grounding it better?
Lol although this is pretty much a brand new trailer it seems like I have a lot of work to do
skinny_fishing, YOU HAVE YOUR WORK CUT OUT FOR YOU !!!
YES YOUR WINCH STAND AND TONGUE JACK ARE IMPROPERLY LOCATED IF THE BOAT IS PROPERLY LOCATED AND BALANCED
JOB #1 IS TO INSURE 2 THINGS ... BALANCE AND TRANSOM LOCATION
TONGUE WEIGHT FOR A RIG LIKE YOURS SHOULD BE BETWEEN 50# AND 75# WHICH CAN BE WEIGHED ON A SIMPLE BATHROOM SCALE
THE TRANSOM SHOULD BE RESTING ON A BUNK DIRECTY ABOVE THE BUNK'S SUPPORT TO THE TRAILER FRAME
IF YOUR SKIFF HAS THE MOTOR MOUNTED FWD OF THE AFTERMOST POINT OF THE HULL/IN A WELL SO TO SPEAK THEN THE "TRANSOM" IN THIS CASE IS THE MOTOR MOUNT IMHO
MANY TRAILERS MOUNT THE ACTUAL SPRINGS TO A PIECE OF ANGE IRON THAT CAN BE SLID FORE N AFT TO ACHIEVE THIS BAANCE
IF YOUR TRAILER SPRING MOUNTS ARE WELDED DIRECTLY TO THE CHANNEL IRON FRAME THIS OPERATION WILL BECOME A BUNKING ISSUE
ONCE THE BALANCE IS WITHIN THE ABOVE STATED TARGETED RANGE MOVE THE WINCH STAND AND WINCH MOUNTING BRACKET SO THE BOW EYE IS JUST ABOVE THE RUBBER "V" BOW STOP AND THE WINCH PULLS JUST A HAIR DOWNWARD TO GIVE YOUR HULL A DEFINITE RESTING POSITION DURING TRAVEL
WHEN WINCHING THE BOAT OFF THE GROUND WITH THE TRAILER TILTED YOU CAN RUN THE WINCH STRAP BELOW THE RUBBER BOW STOP UNTIL THE BOW EYE IS CLOSE TO THE STOP
LOWERING THE HULL ON THE TRAILER CAN POSSIBLY ALLOW THE CENTER OF THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL/BOW TO CONTACT THE TRAILER FRAME DURING LOADING WHICH IS NOT A GOOD THING
JUST BE AWARE AND CAUTIOUS
THE SIDE BUNKS APPEAR TO BE SET TOO FAR APART
IMHO THOSE BUNKS SHOULD BE LOCATED SO THE BOAT HULL DOESN'T HAVE THE ABILITY TO MOVE SIDE TO SIDE DURING THE LOADING PROCESS AND/OR DURING TRAVEL
THE FRAME CROSS BARS NEED PADDED BLOCKS IN THE CENTER TO KEEP THE BOW OFF THE METAL BARS DURING LOADING
ONCE THESE INITIAL ISSUES HAVE BEEN ADDRESSED THE TONGUE JACK NEEDS TO BE LOCATED SO THE HANDLE CAN BE AFFECTED EASILY W/O INTERFERENCE FRUM THE HULL OR WINCH STAND AND THE WINCH HANDLE
I PERSONALLY PREFER BOTH HANDLES ON THE PORT SIDE FOR EASIER ACCESS BY THE TOW VEHICLE DRIVER WHEN PLAYING SOLO
BEING AHEAD OF OR BEHIND THE WINCH STAND DOESN'T REALLY MATTER ... JUST BEING ABLE TO USE IT CONVENIENTLY
COME UP WITH A METHOD TO SECURE THE TONGUE JACK HANDLE SO IT DOESN'T DRAG DURING TRAVEL
ADD A CABLE OR CHAIN FRUM THE TONGUE TO THE BOW EYE SO WHEN THE STRAP DIES YOUR BOAT DOESN'T ESCAPE HER CHARIOT
I USUALLY SECURE THIS SAFETY CHAIN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE WINCH STAND
YOU DIDN'T PICTURE THE WHEELS AND DUST CAPS SO I CAN'T TELL WHICH STYLE AXLE YOU HAVE A/O WHETHER OR NOT THERE IS ALREADY A METHOD OF LUBING AND KEEPING THE BEARINGS LUBED IN PLACE
THIS REPLY IS GETTING LONG
BON CHANCE
