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1820 Action Craft
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The extra hub is a great idea 馃憤 i skipped that in my reply,but for me the reason is ,its faster to remove one nut that shouldnt be rusted VS 5 that are usually rusted or may even snap off the stud ... my Buddy has a awesome set up on his trailer tongue, with two tires mounted on hubs it is a bigger offshore boat but awesome set up馃憤馃槑
Use these types of lug nuts with a little marine grease on the stud and they will never rust to the stud.

 

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When looking at trailer I put them in broad categories: fitted, welded trailers and bolt together.

if going the bolt together route I would rather buy a used trailer with a good frame, rip everything off and reinstall top line components myself.
I agree.
As soon as you dunk a new aluminum trailer with stainless fasteners and other steel components in saltwater, the galvanic action (corrosion) begins. Many trailer manufacturers fall short on anti-corrosive measures when building their trailers. I will look at Rolls Axle Trailers next time I am in the market for one. In the meantime, it's a constant battle to keep my current trailer from slowly dissolving. My advice is either smear Tef-Gel between all aluminum-to-stainless connections to halt the flow of current between the dissimilar metals - or instead smear Green Grease on those same connections and attach some large sacrificial zinc anodes to the trailer itself (and bond them). Also important, as mentioned earlier, is to install dedicated insulated ground wire for all trailer lights and not use trailer lights that depend on the trailer frame as the ground conductor.
 

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Thanks Steve_Mevers 馃憤 but i was referring to other trailers not mine i spend 3 or 4 hours working on and under a trailer when i get it everything thats rusted in the past on others gets a coating 馃憤馃槑 thats when i first got it ive installed guide-ons, led lights new harness, 2x6 on a flat for bunks new radials and wheel ...ect
馃憤馃槑
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
When looking at trailer I put them in broad categories: fitted, welded trailers and bolt together.

if going the bolt together route I would rather buy a used trailer with a good frame, rip everything off and reinstall top line components myself.
I agree with this sentiment, however finding a used trailer is like trying to find hen's teeth at the moment. I've been looking evey day since i knew i needed one and no dice so far.

The few decent ones I've seen were priced close to a new one anyway.
 

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Maverick HPXS
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I agree with this sentiment, however finding a used trailer is like trying to find hen's teeth at the moment. I've been looking evey day since i knew i needed one and no dice so far.

The few decent ones I've seen were priced close to a new one anyway.
when buying used all you need is a good frame to rebuild, everything else can be trashed as it is getting removed anyways.
 

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2021 Wrightwater 12
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I found a old galv tilt trailer on CL in Nov of 2020, Paid $175 for it, Replaced or rebuilt everything. All in for $455. Make sure the inside of the trailer fenders are wider than the hull so you can lower the boat as much as possible. Lay the bunks flat on the trailer frame and flip the springs under the axle. With this I can dry launch my 12 footer. Not quite as low as a torsion axle trailer but it works well.

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
One of my problems is time as well tho....The new skiff is going to be done soon so I don't have time to completely rebuild an old trailer. Slightly used would be ideal, but like I said it seems like those are priced so close to new I might as well go new anyway.

Gonna call around some places tomorrow. Magic Tilt, Owens and Sons, and Peterson Trailers who are all local, maybe a few others. I'd be willing to pay some more for better quality so i don't have to upgrade a bunch of stuff on the cheapest trailer I can get.
 

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Just wanted to throw this in the mix 馃槒
When you register your trailer you may want to see if you can get the smaller motor cycle tag 馃憤 ive read where some of the guys with the low rider trailers got the smaller tag which helped it not drag the ground /ramp ect.... even if you put it up on the guide-ons the smaller tag would be a plus to walk around 馃憤 im checking on one next time i need a tag....
 

I Love microskiff.com!
1820 Action Craft
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I agree with this sentiment, however finding a used trailer is like trying to find hen's teeth at the moment. I've been looking evey day since i knew i needed one and no dice so far.

The few decent ones I've seen were priced close to a new one anyway.
That is why I bought new instead of rebuilding my old trailer. The cost for parts to rebuild it the way I wanted it was about half the cost of a new trailer. I sold my old trailer for top dollar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Lots of great advice in this thread, I never knew there was so much to consider. I wonder how many people view the trailer as an afterthought to the boat itself and regret it later. it sounds like if I do this right my experience launching and retrieving the skiff will be a much more pleasant experience rather than struggling with a general use trailer.
 

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Years ago I had a small center console Sportcraft 16. It was my first trailered boat. It was a monstrous pain launching and recover. I took it to a trailer shop in Dania and they adjusted the fit.

After that the hubs and axle never got wet. It was the best money I鈥檝e ever spent on a boat setup.
 

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Yes if you take the time now to set it up correctly it will save you time later at ramp cause it will just about load itself ,and add to your enjoyment 馃憤馃槑 i never pull out more than two foot of strap i drive right up to the wench roller 馃憤馃槑 wonce you learn the sweet spot on that trailer its easier 馃憤infact i marked my drivers side guide-on with electrical tape when the trailers at perfect depth to take the guess work out of it ...you can use a zip tie at ramp and change it at home to more permanent tape 馃憤馃槑
 

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Just wanted to add i see several putting emphasis on Dry Launching.....

Its great if you set up for it and have a small enough boat ....

I had a 2220 Keywest with tandem axel trailer i greased it day one ! It was a leaf spring trailer,after 11 years i sold it with original leafs springs and the new owner pulled it to keywest on vacation first thing with no issues!,i did change the bearings seals and races and put new radials on her but other than that it was like new ,no pitting on spring at all 馃憤馃槑 point is im saying dont sweat getting the trailer wet ,it can take it for years if you prep it correctly at start 馃憤馃槑 like My Buddy told me "Bubba if you grease them spring that salt water will run off like water off a Duck Back" he was right he helped me rebuild my first trailer and i learned a valuable lesson in the process 馃槈 馃憤馃槑
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well plans are changing for me now (for the better), The used boat I was going to buy originally is available again (long story) so I'm jumping on it because it's a great price. Just found out a bit ago. It's a rabco 14' as well that's a year old that was barely used so the trailer and motor (9.9 Yamaha) are in like new condition. Hull is a tad rough from being moored (lots of barnacle husks) but no biggie I can clean it up.

The trailer is a galvanized Continental, so looks like I'll be upgrading it asap. Taking it to a shop to have it custom fitted and lowered as much as possible sounds like a great idea. Once I have the rig In my possession, I'll post trailer pics here to get ideas on upgrades and whatnot.
 
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