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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if there were any opinions on whether there's a prop out there that people find works better than the OEM aluminum prop the Yamaha comes with? My initial thought is that with only 25HP, a propeller may make some difference, but it wouldn't be as much as a propeller change on a 200HP or above. I could be wrong.
 

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Propping any motor can make or break performance. I plan to buy the new F25 in the next 6 months and no doubt gonna go thru a few props to find the best performing one. I recommend Solas props
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Propping any motor can make or break performance. I plan to buy the new F25 in the next 6 months and no doubt gonna go thru a few props to find the best performing one. I recommend Solas props
Ok, thank you. I suppose I've got more to learn.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Depends on the hull you hang it on.
That seems like it would make sense. I think I need to review some hydro dynamics information. I'd be replacing the standard aluminum propeller on a 2017 Yamaha F25 that's mounted on a flat bottom boat. No tunnel. No portion of the hull is shaped as a V hull. I wouldn't want to go to the trouble of buying a new propeller just to find that it doesn't make much difference given my set up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's a good point. Hadn't thought about that. I saw a 4 bladed stainless steel prop from Protech that I thought looked good. I like the fact that it was supposed to provide more lift to the stern as well as an improved whole shot. However, that could just be sales hype. Unfortunately, I have flex in my transom. I can see where the transom is bending back slightly where the engine is mounted. Before a jack plate, and certainly before a new prop is installed, I need to take the boat to a friend's shop, have him remove the outboard, and hold on to it until I can strengthen the transom. Right now, it's just half inch marine grade plywood, and starboard, along with metal support brackets. The bending is occurring in two places just beyond the starboard. Once the transom is ship shape, I'll proceed with the remainder of the repairs and address the tach issue.
 

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Yeah I agree fix transom first. But in regards to the prop I think with the 4 blade you may gain a little better hole shot but will lose some top end. Usually guys with tunnels are running 4blade which will allow them to raise the motor up more without the prop slipping. Also you might want to make sure your 25hp will have the needed torque to properly spin a stainless prop. I personally don't like stainless due to the fact if I hit something props cost less than prop shafts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I agree fix transom first. But in regards to the prop I think with the 4 blade you may gain a little better hole shot but will lose some top end. Usually guys with tunnels are running 4blade which will allow them to raise the motor up more without the prop slipping. Also you might want to make sure your 25hp will have the needed torque to properly spin a stainless prop. I personally don't like stainless due to the fact if I hit something props cost less than prop shafts.
I feel 100% exactly the same way about stainless propellers and have always opted for aluminum for the exact reason you mentioned. If there's a risk of me losing any top end speed, forget it.
 

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Yeah I agree fix transom first. But in regards to the prop I think with the 4 blade you may gain a little better hole shot but will lose some top end. Usually guys with tunnels are running 4blade which will allow them to raise the motor up more without the prop slipping. Also you might want to make sure your 25hp will have the needed torque to properly spin a stainless prop. I personally don't like stainless due to the fact if I hit something props cost less than prop shafts.
Common misconception about 4 blade props having better holeshot and less top end. A good three blade with extra cup will stay hooked up better than a 4 blade.
 

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So enlighten me on the benefit of a 4 blade. And the down side
I just hear and read a majority of people stating that 4 blade props are holeshot props and 3 blades are speed props. Generally speaking this CAN be true BUT on different hull/motor combinations a properly made custom 3 blade can absolutely outperform a 4 blade as far as hole shot and holding water (not blowing out at high settings/turns).
The same can be said for a 4 blade prop set up correctly on different hull/motor combinations can run faster than a 3 blade. It all depends on different factors. I'm no prop guy and apparently a majority of the people on here and in public aren't either so I don't understand why so many people go through so many testing stages with shelf props when they could just go to a well seasoned prop guy and get where they need to be after trying one or two props OR one prop then having it tweaked to run at maximum efficiency.
 

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I just hear and read a majority of people stating that 4 blade props are holeshot props and 3 blades are speed props. Generally speaking this CAN be true BUT on different hull/motor combinations a properly made custom 3 blade can absolutely outperform a 4 blade as far as hole shot and holding water (not blowing out at high settings/turns).
The same can be said for a 4 blade prop set up correctly on different hull/motor combinations can run faster than a 3 blade. It all depends on different factors. I'm no prop guy and apparently a majority of the people on here and in public aren't either so I don't understand why so many people go through so many testing stages with shelf props when they could just go to a well seasoned prop guy and get where they need to be after trying one or two props OR one prop then having it tweaked to run at maximum efficiency.
Agreed but alot of people don't know or have time to go to a seasoned prop guy. That is where the whole 4 blade is for hole shot thing comes in. When you are dealing with shelf props that is where you start. To get the 3 blade that you speak of you have to have it special made. I agree with what you are saying I just wish that when people make statements they make sure to explain or clarify. This will help people when searching for info on a particular subject. Once again thanks for the clarification.
 

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I guess I just assume everyone wants the absolute best prop for their hull/motor combination and that usually means having either a shelf prop tweaked or a custom prop made. I'm just weird like that but I also ask people that fish with me to limit gear and food/drinks to cut down on weight.
 

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I guess I just assume everyone wants the absolute best prop for their hull/motor combination and that usually means having either a shelf prop tweaked or a custom prop made. I'm just weird like that but I also ask people that fish with me to limit gear and food/drinks to cut down on weight.
You right! Everyone probably does want the best prop and they come on here to find info on how to get the best prop. That is where the clarification on your first post comes in. I wasn't trying to be an rude. I knew where you were going with your statement I just wanted you to provide the needed info. Thanks again.
 

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You right! Everyone probably does want the best prop and they come on here to find info on how to get the best prop. That is where the clarification on your first post comes in. I wasn't trying to be an rude. I knew where you were going with your statement I just wanted you to provide the needed info. Thanks again.
Absolutely understood!
 

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I have the new 2017 Yamaha F25 on a 1448 Alweld. I am not completely through the break in period, but at WOT I’m turning 5800rpm and going 27-28mph (GPS). I put a hi-jacker jack plate with 6” of setback. I have the cavitation plate 0.5" above the bottom of the boat. I currently have issues with blowout/cavitation when turning the motor hard at WOT and occasionally at takeoff. The boat has trim tabs. I am currently running the stock 9&7/8 x 11&1/4” F series aluminum prop. 5000-6000rpm is the operating range for this motor. After talking with PowerTech, I went with the SRA3 in the 10x10p. I hope to gain a little more top end performance with the new SST prop. I really wanted to go with the 11 pitch but they said it would likely drop my RPMs too much. I will report back after I test it.
 

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So i tested the SRA3 10p prop on my motor and it performed very well. I know my boat isn't a microskiff, but it did offer great results with the aluminum hull. By dropping one pitch switching to SST, I stayed the same rpm. Holeshot was better, with less ventilation. I was also able to raise the motor another inch on the jackplate. I am now +2" from the bottom of the hull. I really like the performance of the SRA3 prop on the new F25 Yamaha. Now time to catch some fish!
 
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