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Discussion Starter #81
Almost done foaming everything in. Traveling and rain have really slowed down progress. Looking to finish foam today, then precut all my glass during the rain this week so I can glass when the humidity slows down.

Question for someone...do the same humidity rules apply to adding resin to the core?

Next steps - sand down/fill the seams, fill screw holes, shape core, resin that bad boy, fillets, clean, then glass. I'll post pics soon.
 

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Yeah, I wouldn't do too much if humidity is high.
 

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What is the min/max HP rating for this hull?
Thanks,
 

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The Beryllium skiff can be built using my inner chine pocket detail or you can go with the deep vee version and conventional chines.
What is the main difference, AND which one is preferred?
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #86
155770

155771


Foam is on and time to shape it! The bow is off by a hair and was hard to figure out since the foam is slightly bowed. I just loosened the screws and the low spots eased. I’ll make sure to sand it down prior to glass. Same with the steer. I would have make smaller verticals for the rounded transom. It would eliminate more filler Andre sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
What is the main difference, AND which one is preferred?
Thanks,
I'm not a professional boat builder, so don't quote me on this...pocket chines are different in the angle and location. They are on the conchfish and Lithium I think. This is one of the main advantages of the beryllium. They don't do the pocket chines. Maybe someone that has built a CF can explain better.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Ok Chris messaged me and said the beryllium does have the pocket chine which is the lower chine panel. It is similar to a reverse chine versus a smooth transition. For some reason I thought I read that the chines are easier on the beryllium than the Conchfish. Chris's message " to answer from Microskiff site. The chine pockets are on all my designs. the vertical sides act like keels when poling and rest help in diverting water spray down and outward. all my designs can be built with conventional chines if wanted. They make a slightly faster skiff, but slide in turns, no keel, and are wetter. Hence my proven pocket design." The godfather hast spoken. Pocket chines for the win!
 

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Can someone post a picture of a hull with an arrow pointing to the pocket chine? I am trying to follow the conversation but my ignorance keeps getting in the way. Thanks!
 

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The pocket chine is the bottom detail on the aft section of the skiff. Seen on this skiff and the conchfish builds. It's the step inward that you see that he is referring to.

The conventional chine is on boats such as your standard seafox or key west. They go all the way to the waterline. It will float a little higher ( almost unnoticeable) and will be slightly faster. Though it can slide in a high speed turn and will be a wetter ride because the water will travel up from not haveing the brake in the side of the boat and sharp edge. Hope this helps, Michael
 

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View attachment 155770
View attachment 155771

Foam is on and time to shape it! The bow is off by a hair and was hard to figure out since the foam is slightly bowed. I just loosened the screws and the low spots eased. I’ll make sure to sand it down prior to glass. Same with the steer. I would have make smaller verticals for the rounded transom. It would eliminate more filler Andre sanding.
How do you plane to even out all the different sections of foam? Do you think this will be quicker than taking the time to make the fit better from the start?
 

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Discussion Starter #94
How do you plane to even out all the different sections of foam? Do you think this will be quicker than taking the time to make the fit better from the start?
I plan on using the low RPM setting on my sander and an 18' long board. I smoothed it out last night and wasn't that bad at all. I wish I would have used a table saw, but I used a jig saw instead. Regardless, you will have high spots where they come together; so, that time is gonna be the same. I'd probably save time doing the seam filler, but I don't have space for a table saw.
 

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I just eMail Chris and asked if this can work w/wood (Okoume or Meranti).
 

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I plan on using the low RPM setting on my sander and an 18' long board. I smoothed it out last night and wasn't that bad at all. I wish I would have used a table saw, but I used a jig saw instead. Regardless, you will have high spots where they come together; so, that time is gonna be the same. I'd probably save time doing the seam filler, but I don't have space for a table saw.
Thanks, that was what I was hoping you would say. No need to spend extra time when the sanding step is inevitable!
 
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