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Discussion Starter #1
I know Awlgrip is not recommended for below the waterline, but what really happens when a boat with the entire hull painted with Awlgrip is left in the water? Does the paint really blister and peel after a few days, or is this practice not recommended simply because barnacles and algae may start to adhere and grow? And how long can it truly be left in the water before issues begin to occur? I have read all kinds of opinions on this topic with people saying everything from two to three days to two weeks, but does anyone have any actual first-hand experience or is everything I have heard and read about hearsay?

I recently painted over my old gelcoat with Awlgrip (after sanding and priming with 545 epoxy primer) and was planning on leaving it in the water for about four days for a camping trip this fall. I really don't want my new paint job to blister and peel off my hull after the first trip. I could theoretically load it back on the trailer every night, but it sure would be easier to leave it in the water for a few days.
 

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Brandon, FL
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I am not a paint expert but I think the issue comes in because people paint and then in 2 days its back in the water. I feel this is where they end up with issues.

Since yours is a trailer queen it will have a solid amount of time to cure. I am not sure but I believe epoxy paints are a two week cure unless you have an oven.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The specs on the Awlgrip do say 14 days to full cure which my boat will have had.
 

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BBA Counselor
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4 days you will be fine. You may have to clean some growth off the hull, but the same thing will happen with gel coat. Gel coat is not recommended for being in the water long term either, that's what bottom paint is for.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm thinking I'll be fine as well. I may pull it out for a night halfway though the trip just to be safe. I'm no chemist, but a properly applied linear polyurethane sitting on top of an epoxy primer should be damn near waterproof with very little to no water absorption. I'm guessing the issues arise when they are placed in water prior to full cure like DuckNut mentioned or due to water vapor (not liquid water) migrating through the finish resulting in osmosis of the GRP hull. If anyone else has any first-hand experience or technical information let me know, I'd love to hear it. I think in addition to simply answering my question this is information that would benefit folks on this forum better than hearsay or lawyer-recommended TDS specs. I doubt I'm the only person on here who trailers their boat 99% of the time but wants to leave it in the water for a long weekend fishing trip every now and then.


 

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Line-X down in Sarasota does a hull paint (smooth) that is, well, some say bullet proof.
I have never used it on a boat, but it is tough stuff.
Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have read about what they are doing down in Sarasota and did give it some thought. I even had my local Line-X give them a call but the quotes were a little higher than I wanted to invest in this boat. $1500 for the hull in black, $1800 for color. The same for the deck, so anywhere between $3000-$3600 for the whole boat. I was able to cover the whole thing in Awlgrip for $1500 doing it myself, which I enjoyed.
 

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I am a painter by trade. First off, a full cure is not going to happen in anything less than 30 days. The vehicle used to get the paint on will have some off gassing until then.
The 4 days in the water will be just fine. Its gonna slime over a little but if given a full cure out of the water you are not going to have any issues.
As far as bottom paint goes they are a fouling paint on purpose so that barnacles and other things dont stick. ( basically fail on purpose )
Just take the time to wash her good when you are done with your trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I guess it's settled then. I'll plan to leave it in the water for my fishing/camping trip for four days and will report back with my findings. The trip is scheduled for early November.
 
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