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avoiding drilling holes in a deck

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drilling holes in a deck can create big problems - dry rot - end result of improper sealing techniques - using cheap silicone sealer/caulk - water logged hulls is another big problem.
avoiding these problems is a very simple task - laminate a block,then screw into the block - avoiding any potential problems.i have a small carolina skiff,i'm "doing up" for myself - here's how i'm mounting a side console i recently made up for the boat - remember,drilling holes in the deck of a carolina skiff isn't a good idea.i solved the problem by laminating a piece of 3/4" marine grade ply to the hull's deck - this block is cut to fit the inside of the console - the console will be secured to the block via angle aluminum,screwed onto the laminated piece and the blocks i laminated into the console's base.this is a very secure method.
i use strictly epoxy - polyester based products used on wood provide a surface bond only - polyester based resins are also pourous,they can and will allow a water migration.
the deck surface was prepped by grinding with a 50g disc to remove the gel and rough up the glass,the block was wet out first in epoxy,then coated in a mix of epoxy mixed with 403 adhesive additive - this is a super strong laminating method - i've used this method exclusivley for the last 13yrs - i've lost count of the transom,decks and various other repairs i've done using this method - it has proven to be the most reliable method.
after the block was coated in the lamination mix,the block was put into position,and a few blocks were used to hold the block in place,while the lamination mix kicks - be carefull not to squeeze the joint dry.after the lamination mix kicks fully,the block are removed and the block is coated in epoxy - this assures it remains protected from any water intrusion - be sure the end grain is fully coated  - plywood will wick water via it's end grain - it's vital the end grain is sealed properly

composites will not hold screws - composites require thru bolting and sleeving - that's the proper method.there's a way around thru bolting when it's not an option - the area where the fasteners are to be placed,the core needs to be removed and the area needs to be filled with the same lamination mix - this will hold a screw
composites are polyester based,and they're brittle,the vibration will break the fibers resulting in loose fasteners - "fasteners" being self tapping "wood" screws.

old school,strong,but - it rots if not protected properly - coated in the method i described,the wood will last a very long time - using polyester based resins on wood should be avoided.

check out the pictures - when the whole project is completed,i'll show the finished product
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· Founder of Microskiff, Member of the Gheenoe Army
5,795 Posts
Are you a schill for Meade???   ;)
I think he was joking. West Systems is some great stuff. Meade is a very nice guy too.

Now for some real Shilling for Meade. ;D



· don't let common sense get in your way
462 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was joking kreepa.  Meade has revolutionized the wood boat industry.  His company might just be located in my home town.  Phenomenal guy.

So, shill away.

thought it was a joke - just didn't get it ? :-/ sorry...

just knew west was made by the gougeon bros...

been using their products for a looong time - in my experience,the best products available

· I Love!
11 Posts
Awesome timing Kreepa. I just bought a Carolina Skiff 1440 that I'm thinking about building a side console to mount a grab bar to. Have been brainstorming on how to do it, looking forward to following your progress.
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